66 F100 - Opinions on Engine to Swap
#1
66 F100 - Opinions on Engine to Swap
I currently have a 1966 F-100 that I thought was a 351 Windsor based on information given to me many years ago when my parents had the truck. Come to find out it is a 71 Car 302 engine. It does have a rebuild on it with maybe 500 miles on it. I may still put this engine back in the truck as I have a rather new C6 transmission to put behind it. Just not certain a 302 will fit the needed of the truck.
As I stated, I am not certain that the 302 will be a great fit for such a heavy truck. I do not plan on daily driving the truck but would like to be able to if I needed/wanted to. I am not doing a full restoration but instead just trying to make a useful/fun drive-able, use-able truck. Something I don't have to fully worry about scratching, hauling things when needed and I would like to be able to tow with it.
I did find a 1975 F150 Explorer locally that has a 460/C6 drivetrain in it. It did have a dash fire that did spread to some of the engine bay. I have spent a lot of time today looking through the site but didn't find one engine that was preferred over another. Would the 460 be a good candidate to swap parts over to my 66?
What engines would some of you recommend for a good swap for the 66 F100? Would the 302 be fine or is it worth removing for something bigger with more power?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
As I stated, I am not certain that the 302 will be a great fit for such a heavy truck. I do not plan on daily driving the truck but would like to be able to if I needed/wanted to. I am not doing a full restoration but instead just trying to make a useful/fun drive-able, use-able truck. Something I don't have to fully worry about scratching, hauling things when needed and I would like to be able to tow with it.
I did find a 1975 F150 Explorer locally that has a 460/C6 drivetrain in it. It did have a dash fire that did spread to some of the engine bay. I have spent a lot of time today looking through the site but didn't find one engine that was preferred over another. Would the 460 be a good candidate to swap parts over to my 66?
What engines would some of you recommend for a good swap for the 66 F100? Would the 302 be fine or is it worth removing for something bigger with more power?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
#3
#4
#5
As has already been mentioned, I think the choice of engine will come down, in large part, to the rear end ratio in the truck and what you want it to do.
To haul anything significant on a regular basis with a 302, a lower rear ratio will work better (such as 3.89 or higher), but you lose fuel mileage for regular driving.
A 302 is a short-stroke engine, with power bands at higher RPMs, by the way, usually above 4000.
Even though a 460 is technically a short-stroke engine, it still has relatively lower power bands like those of a long stroke engine, about 2500 - 3500 RPMs.
(Note: Modern electronics, fuel injection and other post-'79 wonders might have made these statements outdated - check with the experts!)
Check out the 302 and 460 forums, there are a lot of guys there with more knowledge and experience than mine.
The 460 can get you acceptable mileage both around town and on the freeway, and you can use a taller set of gears - 3.00 for example.
If your truck has a Ford 9", the ratio can be changed out rather easily.
I put a 460 in my 66 and like it. I get both good cruising RPMs and towing capability.
For a 460 installation, the crucial parts you will need are the 3-piece engine mounts. One is a cup that bolts to the block. One is the perch that bolts to the frame, and the third is the rubber in the middle insulator cross-bolted to both - 2 sets, of course. (You need these because the 460 torque is strong enough to rip plain steel mounts, and your truck will have a fan blade for a hood ornament!) The 460 mounts are getting harder and harder to find, too.
You will also need a C6 with the 460 bolt pattern. The 302 C6 will not bolt up to it.
There are a number of other smaller parts that you will need for the transplant, so I strongly recommend you obtain the entire truck if at all possible. These kinds of parts are usually made of a substance called unobtainium.
With an "RV" type cam, a 600 CFM Edelbrock 4bbl carb in front of a 3.25 rear end ratio, I was able to get 14-15 on the highway, empty or towing. Town mileage, with lots of stops and go was terrible. About 5-7.
I think that a 302 with gears set to be able to haul will not do much better on the highway, but will likely be a better around town.
These trucks have all the aerodynamics of a wet brick, so make your decisions on what you want the truck to do. Spending a lot of money trying to squeeze a few extra MPG is usually counterproductive.
If you want power, go with the 460. Nicer rumble out the tailpipe, too.
Hope this helps!
John - Banjo -
To haul anything significant on a regular basis with a 302, a lower rear ratio will work better (such as 3.89 or higher), but you lose fuel mileage for regular driving.
A 302 is a short-stroke engine, with power bands at higher RPMs, by the way, usually above 4000.
Even though a 460 is technically a short-stroke engine, it still has relatively lower power bands like those of a long stroke engine, about 2500 - 3500 RPMs.
(Note: Modern electronics, fuel injection and other post-'79 wonders might have made these statements outdated - check with the experts!)
Check out the 302 and 460 forums, there are a lot of guys there with more knowledge and experience than mine.
The 460 can get you acceptable mileage both around town and on the freeway, and you can use a taller set of gears - 3.00 for example.
If your truck has a Ford 9", the ratio can be changed out rather easily.
I put a 460 in my 66 and like it. I get both good cruising RPMs and towing capability.
For a 460 installation, the crucial parts you will need are the 3-piece engine mounts. One is a cup that bolts to the block. One is the perch that bolts to the frame, and the third is the rubber in the middle insulator cross-bolted to both - 2 sets, of course. (You need these because the 460 torque is strong enough to rip plain steel mounts, and your truck will have a fan blade for a hood ornament!) The 460 mounts are getting harder and harder to find, too.
You will also need a C6 with the 460 bolt pattern. The 302 C6 will not bolt up to it.
There are a number of other smaller parts that you will need for the transplant, so I strongly recommend you obtain the entire truck if at all possible. These kinds of parts are usually made of a substance called unobtainium.
With an "RV" type cam, a 600 CFM Edelbrock 4bbl carb in front of a 3.25 rear end ratio, I was able to get 14-15 on the highway, empty or towing. Town mileage, with lots of stops and go was terrible. About 5-7.
I think that a 302 with gears set to be able to haul will not do much better on the highway, but will likely be a better around town.
These trucks have all the aerodynamics of a wet brick, so make your decisions on what you want the truck to do. Spending a lot of money trying to squeeze a few extra MPG is usually counterproductive.
If you want power, go with the 460. Nicer rumble out the tailpipe, too.
Hope this helps!
John - Banjo -
#6
With stock height tires the 302 should do just fine unless you plan to tow in hilly or mountainous terrain. I've owned a couple and got along just fine. A 3.50 cog seems to be a good compromise. With that, headers and good dual exhaust, a blueprinted distributor, you should get mid to upper teens hwy. depending on driving habits.
#7
I run a 460 with a C6 in my 66 with 2.75 gears (2020rpm @60mph) It tows great but only gets 11-12 mpg on the freeway. I have been told that I would get better mileage with 3.25 gears because I would be completely off the idle circuits in the carb.
Most 66 F100s have 3.50 gears which would be good for a 351W (2580rpm @60mph). It would bolt onto your C6 and require few changes. The gear ratio puts it right in the power band at 60mph.
A 302s power band is at a higher rpm and would be more comfortable with a 3.78 gear ratio (2788 rpm @ 60mph).
The type of driving ( city, towing, cruising), terrain (level, hills, mountainous) will determine the best gear ratio.
My recommendation would be; if the 302 is in good shape stick with it and see how it does. A gear change may be in order depending on you driving. If it needs rebuilding and you can find a good 351 at a reasonable go with that.
Before anything check the tag on the rear end and see what you have for gears.
Most 66 F100s have 3.50 gears which would be good for a 351W (2580rpm @60mph). It would bolt onto your C6 and require few changes. The gear ratio puts it right in the power band at 60mph.
A 302s power band is at a higher rpm and would be more comfortable with a 3.78 gear ratio (2788 rpm @ 60mph).
The type of driving ( city, towing, cruising), terrain (level, hills, mountainous) will determine the best gear ratio.
My recommendation would be; if the 302 is in good shape stick with it and see how it does. A gear change may be in order depending on you driving. If it needs rebuilding and you can find a good 351 at a reasonable go with that.
Before anything check the tag on the rear end and see what you have for gears.
Trending Topics
#8
Ford built many F series trucks with 302s.
Your F100 is a light duty truck designed for light hauling and light towing.
If you need more than that, you really need a F250 or F350.
Keep the 302/C6 since they are in good condition and will cost you nothing. If they do not perform to your expectations, go for a stroker 302 or 351.
The advantage to staying with a Windsor/C6 is that you will not have to do engine and transmission mounts, linkage, driveshaft, cooling and all the other nickel & dime things that a engine/tranny swap requires.
Your F100 is a light duty truck designed for light hauling and light towing.
If you need more than that, you really need a F250 or F350.
Keep the 302/C6 since they are in good condition and will cost you nothing. If they do not perform to your expectations, go for a stroker 302 or 351.
The advantage to staying with a Windsor/C6 is that you will not have to do engine and transmission mounts, linkage, driveshaft, cooling and all the other nickel & dime things that a engine/tranny swap requires.
#10
Thanks everyone for your input and info. I don't believe I need anything more than the F100 as the most I would be likely to tow is a loaded car trailer/hauler. Anything else would probably be lighter/smaller than that. The truck will not get any radical changes other than possibly adding some DJM suspension components to get rid of the 4x4 look.
I don't really have to go with a 460 but that is the opportunity that has presented itself with a complete 1975 150. I do still have to get a new/custom drive shaft because there was a T18 manual trans bolted to the 302 that I am removing for the C6. However, you guys bring up a good point which is the rear gearing. This truck came to my family already swapped out with front disk brakes & the 302 so the rear diff may not be the original.
From some of my searching it would seem that my truck originally had a 240 I6 with 3:70 gears. However, I don't know much more than that on the gearing. I do know the housing does not have a rear removable inspection plate and you remove the entire carrier assembly from the front of the diff. I can check to see if there is a tag on the diff.
Below is the information from my door tag if that helps.
F10AD888035
115 B F100 481 G 09
05000 129 4000 61
Thanks again
I don't really have to go with a 460 but that is the opportunity that has presented itself with a complete 1975 150. I do still have to get a new/custom drive shaft because there was a T18 manual trans bolted to the 302 that I am removing for the C6. However, you guys bring up a good point which is the rear gearing. This truck came to my family already swapped out with front disk brakes & the 302 so the rear diff may not be the original.
From some of my searching it would seem that my truck originally had a 240 I6 with 3:70 gears. However, I don't know much more than that on the gearing. I do know the housing does not have a rear removable inspection plate and you remove the entire carrier assembly from the front of the diff. I can check to see if there is a tag on the diff.
Below is the information from my door tag if that helps.
F10AD888035
115 B F100 481 G 09
05000 129 4000 61
Thanks again
#12
I put a 1974 T-bird 460 in my 1966 F250 with a C6 transmission, added a 20% US Gear overdrive, Hughes Fuel Miser Torque Converter for a closer 1:1 lockup and a 3.54 rear axle ratio and average between 11-13 MPG. The power band is definitely is the lower rpm range. It Hauls lots of hay, cattle, firewood, lumber and tractors. You will need to upgrade the front coil springs and install some heavy duty shocks to get the front tires to line up properly. I got my engine mounts from jegs and they work great. You will need to upgrade to a 3 or 4 row radiator also. Your situation may be different but I get a lot of work out of my 460 engine, It always seems to have lots more upside to it no matter how much work it does.
#14
Here's your warranty plate decode minus the horsepower figure since the 240 is no longer there. F10 = 2 wheel drive F100 truck. A = 240 1 bbl I-6 engine, D = Dallas, TX assembly plant. 888035 = assembled July, 1966. 115 = wheelbase in inches. B = Turquoise exterior color. F100 = 5000 pound Gross Vehicle Weight rated half ton truck. 481 = beige upholstery in a Standard Cab. G = Cruise-O-Matic transmission. 09 = 3.70 gears in a Ford 9 inch non-limited slip differential. 5000 = GVW rating. 61 = Dallas, TX district sales office ordered the truck. It was not a special order. Hope this is of some use to you.
#15
Engine options...
Hello, BushyTea- just my two cents opine- 302 'ok' with some power upgrades.
My choice is with a 300-350 hp range 351W- noticeable torque improvement over 302 and lighter than big blocks
My 'ol Blue' '65 has been with me since 1970- stock was 352, then mod 352, then 390 GT, then stock 390, back to 390GT, then to warmed up 460, & finally & lastly to mild '70-351W.
Again, noticeable weight reduction to steering/front-end.
Most fun, though, was 390GT- sweet!! - I used to spot other trucks hi-line poles rather than truck lengths- john
My choice is with a 300-350 hp range 351W- noticeable torque improvement over 302 and lighter than big blocks
My 'ol Blue' '65 has been with me since 1970- stock was 352, then mod 352, then 390 GT, then stock 390, back to 390GT, then to warmed up 460, & finally & lastly to mild '70-351W.
Again, noticeable weight reduction to steering/front-end.
Most fun, though, was 390GT- sweet!! - I used to spot other trucks hi-line poles rather than truck lengths- john