My daughter came home from school and last week she called me from a parking lot and said the truck would not start. 1975 ford f100 302 automatic. I tested the post from the solenoid to the starter. I got a 0 reading. I then disconnected the starter and with the key in start, I had 12. something. I took the starter to be tested and it was bad so I replaced it. Autozone. It ran fine for a few days. Today she went to start it and no go. It seems like it wants to spin, but is very slow. I put a power pack on it and still nothing. I check the voltage the the positive post to the starter but was unable to get a reading as it is digital and it is all over the board. I did notice that both the positive posts are hot in temperature. Should I take the wire off the starter and check it again? Or should I be looking at something else?

 

'Sounds like corroded/dirty battery posts, bad cables, or a bad ground.

Btw, verify that your truck has the bonding (grounding) strap between the cab and the engine. All sorts of weird electrical problems can occur without it.

 

X2, in particular check your ground cable. Be sure it is bolted to the engine block and that all the connections are clean and tight. Also, check the overall condition of the cables themselves. If there is any doubt at all, replace them.
It wouldn't hurt to have the battery checked too.

 

Yep. If the cables are hot that generally means loose, or corroded connections. On a 73 just replace them being 40 years old and wire-wizz or file away any paint or corrosion at the block and frame away to clean down to bare shiny metal. There's three main ground cables or straps, maybe $20 total.

The older trucks always have corrosion problems. Even new trucks just a few years old. It pays to take an afternoon going over all the connections. On restored trucks the problem isn't corrosion but everything gets painted over and can cause a lot of headscratching.

 

It is most likely a defective new starter since it worked fine for a couple of days then quit. Had it happen to me a few months ago. Auto part stores seem to sell a lot of junk lately. I would think you checked, cleaned and tightened all of the electrical connections during the first starter troubleshoot/replacement.

 

That's true, lots of junk. A dragging starter is going to draw tons of current. All troubleshooting and repair goes on the assumption that replacement parts are good. That ain't the case.

 

Thanks guys for the help. I started cleaning terminals last week before I bought a new starter. I will recheck them tomorrow and also get the starter tested.

 

Use your voltmeter across the negative post and starter case to measure voltage drop during cranking. Also test positive side cable at starter post and battery. Should be no more than a couple tenths of a volt. The current is obviously being soaked either by cables/connections, or a bum starter. Put the battery on a slow amp charge overnight since it's been thrashed pretty hard.

 

So far I brought the one week old starter back to Auto Zone and had it tested. It failed. They do not have a replacement starter. I have called around an nobody has one. They have all ordered one for me and I will take the first that arrives. I want the better model. I have called Auto Zone, Advance and CAP. CAPs better one is 50.00 wheras the other two have "better ones" at 95.00. Ho could there be such a difference in the "better one" price? Any thoughts?

 

Wow, I usually take them to the local starter - alternator repair shop, it is expensive (around $100) but he always installs premium parts and they last great!

 

Here is what it takes to rebuild a starter...

Scroll through the slide show for the play-by-play...Mump 0912 01 O+1965 Ford Mustang Starter+starter - Photo 31293063 - 1965 Ford Mustang Starter Rebuilt - Mustang Monthly Magazine

Alternatively, it's YouTube to the rescue:
Part 1: Part 2:
Here's the $16 kit you should order:

 

Starters and alternators are really a crapshoot coming out of some of the parts jobbers. Coat of paint and call it good.

It's worth it just to avoid the aggravation by building up old cores as spares, keep on your own shelf and better than just about anything short of OEM.

 

I agree with you guys assessment of the rebuilders these days. Especially, A Cardone.
Have a feeling that most throw in new gaskets /o rings and clean them up then send them out.
I would much rather pay a local rebuilder (in other words....having a guy) to rebuild MY starter/alt/whatever.
Have bought way to much garbage lately.
Good luck with your starter.

 

Thanks for all the help. I finally got a different reman starter and its up an running for now. I will start to search for a local person who does this work. There was a guy who retired.

 

Looks like an armature and brushes and such is maybe thirty or forty bucks. Good winter project maybe.