BOOM!!! This post might be old but it was the exact answer to my problems. Broke my headlight switch and somehow in the process blew that fuse. Needle in a haystack but thanks Franklin2 for giving me a magnet!

 

2005 F250 6.0L

Having the same issue. Used the wiring diagrams provided and another source detailing what the connectors are to check for voltages and continuities. Cannot seem to find the source of the problem. I have no voltage on tan/white at the back of the headlight switch and no voltage on brown. I do have voltage at the back of fuse box on C270b on the tan/white. I do not have voltage on brown at the back of fuse box where C270b plugs in, pin 5.

any help greatly appreciated.

 

What happens if you make a jumper wire and hook it to the fuse that feeds the tan/white, and then run it over and touch it to the headlight switch plug where the tan/white is located and plugged in?

 

Then that is the problem you need to solve. You have an open circuit # 195. The rest of the circuit "downstream" from there isn't relevant at the moment.

 

Thanks for the advice. Been busy for a couple of days and could not get out there.

Jumped from the always hot DB/OG to the Tan/white. Full functionality returned. The only place i know the Tan/white runs from the back of the fuse panel is the VSM. Is this correct?

Thanks again.

EDIT....The light on chime also came on when the keys were not in the ignition and running as well after I jumped the wire.

EDIT 2....Fog lamps do not work in Auto mode when I jump the tan/white.

 

So no continuity from C205a to C213 on tan/white. There is continuity from C2113b on tan/white to C213 (both sides). Only thing between C213 and C205a that I see is a splice S272.

I have no idea what would have happened to that splice if it is the problem. Unless it also has a relay off of the splice. It is possible that something got wet due a clogged drain duct in the sunroof but I am at a loss.

 

Thanks for all the help guys. The problem was the tan/white wire had burnt through at splice S272. It is located about 6" behind the light switch.

Thanks again.

 

On at least my 2001 Excursion, if a couple of the rear bulbs are burned out, then it seems to trigger some form of power redirect within the back lighting system. I replaced two burned out license plate bulbs, but that didn't fix the issue. So then I noticed a few of the individual LEDs on the LED 'bulbs' (parking & stop lamps) were either not illuminated or else they flickered. So I removed and replaced all of the LED bulbs and the problem was resolved.

 

Having a similar problem with my buddy's 17 f350. He installed led lights on the fenders and now the lights come on with just key on but when you start the engine everything but the taillights and mirror lights go out. Any suggestions?

Update: after cycling several times everything seems to be working normally. Could this have something to do with the body control module seeing less of a draw with the leds?

 

please help me out, i have checked almost everything and cant figure it out, i had a crash and after that i have no dash lights or rear lights, everything else works (headlights, markers, brake and reverse.) please franklin help me out

 

Check fuse 17 in the underdash fuse box.

 

i checked and theres nothing on fuse 17 under dash, but it doesn’t have power on that slot. What else?

 

There is no fuse at slot 17?