Figured that's what it was all along. Just thought the carrier would take care of it.

 

You sure you didn't pinch or nick an o-ring on the injector tops when you pushed the plastic caps back on?

 

Can't be 100% sure, but I ran it trouble free for awhile after I installed my ip and injectors. That's when I reworked the caps and return lines.

 

Okay cool, thats normal! So how long should they cycle like that?

 

Were they set up differently on the powerstrokes? My 97 will cycle but does not click after the cycle. And when I turn the key off then back on it will cycle again..

 

Off the subject. Do you have pics of the trucks in your sig?

 

Not set up differently, no. But controlled differently. My PSD afterglows every time I start it. You can't hear the click, but you can watch the volt gauge move every time the PCM hits the GPR. Also, the PCM usually has the glow plugs going for upwards of 2 minutes on a PSD, so the "wait to start" light is just an idiot light to prevent you from starting before the glow plugs have had a chance to warm up. You can actually wait upwards of a minute and your plugs will be nice and hot and the chambers will have warmed up a little better on cold days.

 

Photos of which truck? lol

And thanks for the info! I didnt know that. That is good information to know. I always cycled them a few times before starting thinking it would help, but letting it set seems like a much better idea.

 

If you're ever concerned about it being a little cold outside, just count to 30 after the WTS goes out, and then crank it. You might be surprised at how much faster the engine catches.

 

[QUOTE=fifty-two_f1;14923686]Photos of which truck? lol

I'd love to see all of them!

 

This is my 51. Flathead V8 4 speed.




This is an old photo. It is apart right now. This is my 54 f600




I dont have pictures of the rest on this computer.

 

Those are some beautiful trucks! I love the older trucks. One of those F600's with an idi, that would be awesome!!!

 

Thanks! I toyed with the idea of putting an idi in my 54, but I dont think it would be too thrilled with 5.88 gears... I figured the 460 wouldn't mind the 3000-4000 rpm range.

 

The superduties have some low gears in them with idis. But either way, you have some nice trucks. I'd love to have the money and time to do a build.

 

there is a check valve in the fuel system at the lift pump, it is part of the design of the pump, when the shower head (coarse filter) fails to block debris they can get stuck in or damage the check valve or pump diagram. there is a check valve in the return line at filter head and IP, when running there is approx. 2-4 lbs of fuel pressure, so fuel may not leak out. however when shut off there is 16lbs of air pressure trying to get in. (atmospheric) so a bad o ring or olive or worn or dirty check valve may allow fuel to flow back to tank, filling parts of the fuel system with air and when you try to start the engine, no fuel, no start. if you louse prime at the ip then it is likely the air is getting in near the ip. the fuel line to the ip holds enough fuel to run the engine four about a min. when she starts the lift pump forces air out of the filter head thru the return line continually , the return at the ip only works at high rpm deceleration. if you remove the return at the filter head, all air from sloshing tanks must move thru ip's transfer pump and may cause miss fire, and stalling. if your truck takes 3 attempts to get started cold, it does not mean there is any problem. it is twenty + years old remember...some refer to a service bulletin that is twenty years old that says to omit this return. IMO its not a fix. it just hides a problem. an e pump installed under the truck forward of the tank switch, protected by a prefilter, and omit the factory lift pump, will work just fine, but may not solve your stalling problem. good luck