solid motor and tranny mounts
#31
Keep it up and don't let us old farts dog you into not asking questions.
Quick question...are you working on a F150 or other? And what engine?
The diesel motor mounts rarely go bad.
We've all been in a vehicle that rocked back and forth as the mega cammed engine idled nervously and haphazardly. Or the whole vehicle shook as the driver gunned the throttle.
But all that twisting to and fro is not good for a stock or even streetable horsepowered engine, transmission and vehicle.
And do them all the same. Stock engine mounts means stock transmission mounts. Poly engine mounts, poly trans mounts. Most poly mounts are sold in kits like this already.
#32
Steve, This is a very smart thing for you to say!!!
Keep it up and don't let us old farts dog you into not asking questions.
Quick question...are you working on a F150 or other? And what engine?
The diesel motor mounts rarely go bad.
We've all been in a vehicle that rocked back and forth as the mega cammed engine idled nervously and haphazardly. Or the whole vehicle shook as the driver gunned the throttle.
But all that twisting to and fro is not good for a stock or even streetable horsepowered engine, transmission and vehicle.
And do them all the same. Stock engine mounts means stock transmission mounts. Poly engine mounts, poly trans mounts. Most poly mounts are sold in kits like this already.
Keep it up and don't let us old farts dog you into not asking questions.
Quick question...are you working on a F150 or other? And what engine?
The diesel motor mounts rarely go bad.
We've all been in a vehicle that rocked back and forth as the mega cammed engine idled nervously and haphazardly. Or the whole vehicle shook as the driver gunned the throttle.
But all that twisting to and fro is not good for a stock or even streetable horsepowered engine, transmission and vehicle.
And do them all the same. Stock engine mounts means stock transmission mounts. Poly engine mounts, poly trans mounts. Most poly mounts are sold in kits like this already.
I like when the whole vehicle shakes at idle and read this is what solid motor mounts may do and some said they can feel a better transfer of power when they hammer the throttle. This is what I want. I want to be able to feel all 351 cubic inches of the motor but I also don't wanna hear the vibration in the cab. Some say the vibration isn't to bad and I don't know how it would be in my cab since it seems to be insulated pretty good.
I know for sure that i wont be using the stock rubber mounts and it's in the air whether to get solid or poly mounts. Just keep reading I guess. But I'd like to at least try the solids so I can pretty much live and learn and if I like them I'll know and if not I won't have to keep wondering
#33
If you're going to manual shift the trans then the kickdown isn't a big deal.
#34
or better yet. Don't fix what aint broke
#35
#36
#38
#39
Id rather work on a carbed motor anyways. If mechanical fuel injection wasn't so expensive to setup I'd be running that
#40
#41
#42
I'm not trying to change your mind, just helping you learn. You don't need a code reader for an '87 computer. The pre-OBD1 systems (EEC-IV is what I think your truck would have) will flash the codes on the check engine light if you jump the right connector to ground. It's a simple process that you can easily find in a search or by asking here.
And even if you had a new enough old truck that had the OBD2 system, you can get a reader for under $50. Or I've heard you can get an app for a smart phone that can read OBD2 codes. So either way, not having a code reader isn't a good reason to ditch EFI.
And again, not trying to change your mind, just helping you learn, EFI systems will almost always give better fuel mileage and better driveability than a carb. They CAN be harder to get power out of in a significantly modified engine, but only because there are a few more things to change (fuel pumps and injectors), and apparently some of the older systems can get a little confused when you make too many changes (no experience here myself, just what I've read). But even there it's not that hard to get EFI to work better than a carb, even for high power applications.
The only downside that I see personally to EFI is that there are a lot of things that can go wrong that can make it not work well, mostly electrical connections. But the thing about that is it's still pretty rare that any of those things actually cause any problems, so EFI systems overall probably are still more reliable than carbs (although carbs are pretty reliable too).
And even if you had a new enough old truck that had the OBD2 system, you can get a reader for under $50. Or I've heard you can get an app for a smart phone that can read OBD2 codes. So either way, not having a code reader isn't a good reason to ditch EFI.
And again, not trying to change your mind, just helping you learn, EFI systems will almost always give better fuel mileage and better driveability than a carb. They CAN be harder to get power out of in a significantly modified engine, but only because there are a few more things to change (fuel pumps and injectors), and apparently some of the older systems can get a little confused when you make too many changes (no experience here myself, just what I've read). But even there it's not that hard to get EFI to work better than a carb, even for high power applications.
The only downside that I see personally to EFI is that there are a lot of things that can go wrong that can make it not work well, mostly electrical connections. But the thing about that is it's still pretty rare that any of those things actually cause any problems, so EFI systems overall probably are still more reliable than carbs (although carbs are pretty reliable too).
#44
I'm not trying to change your mind, just helping you learn. You don't need a code reader for an '87 computer. The pre-OBD1 systems (EEC-IV is what I think your truck would have) will flash the codes on the check engine light if you jump the right connector to ground. It's a simple process that you can easily find in a search or by asking here.
And even if you had a new enough old truck that had the OBD2 system, you can get a reader for under $50. Or I've heard you can get an app for a smart phone that can read OBD2 codes. So either way, not having a code reader isn't a good reason to ditch EFI.
And again, not trying to change your mind, just helping you learn, EFI systems will almost always give better fuel mileage and better driveability than a carb. They CAN be harder to get power out of in a significantly modified engine, but only because there are a few more things to change (fuel pumps and injectors), and apparently some of the older systems can get a little confused when you make too many changes (no experience here myself, just what I've read). But even there it's not that hard to get EFI to work better than a carb, even for high power applications.
The only downside that I see personally to EFI is that there are a lot of things that can go wrong that can make it not work well, mostly electrical connections. But the thing about that is it's still pretty rare that any of those things actually cause any problems, so EFI systems overall probably are still more reliable than carbs (although carbs are pretty reliable too).
And even if you had a new enough old truck that had the OBD2 system, you can get a reader for under $50. Or I've heard you can get an app for a smart phone that can read OBD2 codes. So either way, not having a code reader isn't a good reason to ditch EFI.
And again, not trying to change your mind, just helping you learn, EFI systems will almost always give better fuel mileage and better driveability than a carb. They CAN be harder to get power out of in a significantly modified engine, but only because there are a few more things to change (fuel pumps and injectors), and apparently some of the older systems can get a little confused when you make too many changes (no experience here myself, just what I've read). But even there it's not that hard to get EFI to work better than a carb, even for high power applications.
The only downside that I see personally to EFI is that there are a lot of things that can go wrong that can make it not work well, mostly electrical connections. But the thing about that is it's still pretty rare that any of those things actually cause any problems, so EFI systems overall probably are still more reliable than carbs (although carbs are pretty reliable too).