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OK I have searched and read a lot. I still have lift and tire Q's

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Old 12-17-2014, 08:40 PM
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OK I have searched and read a lot. I still have lift and tire Q's

The V/B spring swap as opposed to buying a lift is it the cost or better towing capacity / less axle wrap or what?

Suspension lift companies say 4" or 5" for 35's I have seen trucks here with less lift and 35's. Is there a definitive minimum lift to safely run 35's on a truck that will see car towing duty maybe 4 times a year?
 
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:38 PM
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Cost of lift kit vs V/B spring swap depends on how pricey of a lift, some get pretty costly and how you source the springs for the V/B swap. I run a modded X/B swap on my EX and it is probably the cheapest lift here, the springs were free from a coworker so I only paid for new U-bolts, about $65. There are plenty of options for buying springs, new from Ford (actually not as expensive as you might think...), new aftermarket springs (research here for the good suppliers), craigslist and other local parts listings, and the crowd favorite parts yards! Seriously, used truck springs are fine, it's not that our EX springs are worn out its that they just sucked from the factory! Try to get springs from a truck that still has the door sticker that shows the spring codes to verify that you are getting exactly what you want.
A lot of 35" tire are actually just a hair under 35" tall, my Nitto Duras are listed as 35.28" tall and my front lift of 3 7/8" (modded X codes) clears them fine with only a little rub on the springs at full steering lock. The rear will have no problem fitting 35"s no matter what lift you go with, plenty of room there.
I pull a 12K lb 41' travel trailer 5-10K miles a year and the X/B springs are far far better all around than the stock springs were.

EDIT: I just reread your post and yes the V/B swap offers springs known to be superior to our stockers (as opposed to less well know lift kits) and the SD truck springs will provide better load handling than factory EX springs which will deliver better towing performance and much less axle wrap. Technically no matter what springs you hang under an EX the rated capacity and tow rating of the Ex will not change, only Ford or an aftermarket vehicle reconstruction shop can do that. With that being said it's not uncommon for my loaded rear axle weight to be in excess of 6500lbs when towing and a full crew onboard the EX. Axle wrap was a very real problem with my combo in stock trim, with the modded B codes I now have little to no axle wrap.
 
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Old 01-10-2015, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SVTDarin
The V/B spring swap as opposed to buying a lift is it the cost or better towing capacity / less axle wrap or what?

Suspension lift companies say 4" or 5" for 35's I have seen trucks here with less lift and 35's. Is there a definitive minimum lift to safely run 35's on a truck that will see car towing duty maybe 4 times a year?




All of the above : You will need to remember a 4" Super Duty lift on your X will be a 6" gain. The V/B swap is a minor lift BUT it's more about just putting the X the way it should have come from the factory. If your not afraid of a little trimming you could run the 35" with very little lift. As already said tires are usually under the claimed size.
 
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SVTDarin
The V/B spring swap as opposed to buying a lift is it the cost or better towing capacity / less axle wrap or what?

Suspension lift companies say 4" or 5" for 35's I have seen trucks here with less lift and 35's. Is there a definitive minimum lift to safely run 35's on a truck that will see car towing duty maybe 4 times a year?
As far as price cost goes, I found my X code springs at a salvage yard for 100 for the pair. Since I don't like doing anything half-assed, I am ordering new rubber bushings and tip inserts for mine to make them "silky smooth" Total cost after all that is said and done comes to around 300 bucks for just the parts.

I actually got sent to Junior from ATS for my rear springs. This guy is very knowledgeable and was able to answer all of my questions and offer recommendations based on his experience. I will be buying my brand new C Code springs with all the perks of being brand (fresh bushings, paint, ect) new with an "add a leaf" all put together in the spring pack. It's a bit more expensive, but the time saved from me not having to go out and find them, press the used bushings out and do the spring pack I think will be well worth it. The shipping is the real killer though.

Some of the lift kits I've seen look... sketchy.

Leaf Springs and Suspension Parts by Auto and Truck Springs
 
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Old 01-11-2015, 11:45 AM
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I like working with Junior. I will be making a fourth purchase from him first thing Monday morning.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:39 AM
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So I am on my second day of searching these Excursion lift threads and, I must say it is hard to find some specific information on what I would like to do. I have an '01 Ex with the 7.3 in it and I desperately need a suspension upgrade. My front springs bottom out over every speed bump and my bump stops are completely gone. Right now the Ex is used for almost a daily driver for my wife but we also use it to tow our 9,000 lb travel trailer a few times a year.


I would like to get anywhere from 2.75-4" of lift. Could I get this out of just a straight X code swap up front with a C code swap for the rear or is it better to just go with the modded X and modded B swap.


I would like to get from 3-4" of lift while re-doing the springs. I believe based on that I will probably do the modded X springs up front and the modded B springs in the rear. However, what is better to use in the rear--the modded B's or the C code springs (or will the C springs still not give enough of a lift)? My goal is not necessarily to fit 35" tires or something like that. I just want a more heavy duty Excursion with a little lift on it.


With that being said, does anybody have a necessary part number list for the spring swap that would work for me (new U-bolts, etc.?. Also, will I need any other blocks for the rear or do the springs take care of the whole lift.


Sorry about all the info and questions, but it gets so old searching and searching and not seeming to come up with answers.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by WE3ZS
Cost of lift kit vs V/B spring swap depends on how pricey of a lift, some get pretty costly and how you source the springs for the V/B swap. I run a modded X/B swap on my EX and it is probably the cheapest lift here, the springs were free from a coworker so I only paid for new U-bolts, about $65. There are plenty of options for buying springs, new from Ford (actually not as expensive as you might think...), new aftermarket springs (research here for the good suppliers), craigslist and other local parts listings, and the crowd favorite parts yards! Seriously, used truck springs are fine, it's not that our EX springs are worn out its that they just sucked from the factory! Try to get springs from a truck that still has the door sticker that shows the spring codes to verify that you are getting exactly what you want.
A lot of 35" tire are actually just a hair under 35" tall, my Nitto Duras are listed as 35.28" tall and my front lift of 3 7/8" (modded X codes) clears them fine with only a little rub on the springs at full steering lock. The rear will have no problem fitting 35"s no matter what lift you go with, plenty of room there.
I pull a 12K lb 41' travel trailer 5-10K miles a year and the X/B springs are far far better all around than the stock springs were.

EDIT: I just reread your post and yes the V/B swap offers springs known to be superior to our stockers (as opposed to less well know lift kits) and the SD truck springs will provide better load handling than factory EX springs which will deliver better towing performance and much less axle wrap. Technically no matter what springs you hang under an EX the rated capacity and tow rating of the Ex will not change, only Ford or an aftermarket vehicle reconstruction shop can do that. With that being said it's not uncommon for my loaded rear axle weight to be in excess of 6500lbs when towing and a full crew onboard the EX. Axle wrap was a very real problem with my combo in stock trim, with the modded B codes I now have little to no axle wrap.

WE3ZS--I really like your set-up, it looks great. How much more of a lift did your modded X/modded B swap did you get versus just doing a straight X/B swap? Do you happen to have a tech write-up or anything? As I asked in my other post, would you happen to have a parts list? I am sure I can track down the part numbers for the springs but what U-bolts did you use? I am trying to think from all of your other posts I have read, but did you have to use different rear blocks? Thanks for any info you can provide.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 12:29 PM
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" I just want a more heavy duty Excursion with a little lift on it."
4" is not really considered a little lift.
The way I would go about it is set up the front with the factory S/Duty spring of choice & if not happy with the 2" gain you get add the longer shackles or gain an easy 1/2" using a cut base spring (making a mini spring) from the old rear spring pack bolted under the front spring pack ( I just ordered the new grade 8 S/P center bolts needed to do that from JR. at ADS yesterday) . If you go any higher than that I don't think you can use stock link arms or track bar so you might as well go to a kit lift at that point. Once you have the front set the way you want it, the rear is easy to adjust to what ever rake (or not) that you desire. You set the rear S/P up, install it with the old u-bolts, (TEMP) Then you order the correct single rear blocks & U-bolts you need to get you where you want to be.


"FWIW, I recently bought a pair of longer shackles on Amazon for about $51 with free shipping. If I recall correctly, they are 2 inches longer than stock for about an inch of lift. I haven't installed them yet, so no confirmation on the actual amount of lift I get. They are in a box with a bunch of other stuff I'm compiling for a spring time suspension revamp (too cold here now). I consider myself a do-it-yourselfer also, but couldn't justify the effort on making my own set when I can buy them done for about $50.


Linky

Amazon.com: Performance Accessories (1702) Leveling Shackle: Automotive"><span style=Amazon.com: Performance Accessories (1702) Leveling Shackle: Automotive" /> Amazon.com: Performance Accessories (1702) Leveling Shackle: Automotive">Amazon.com: Performance Accessories (1702) Leveling Shackle: Automotive
" from another thread today....
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Old 01-31-2015, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by harley4jcs
" I just want a more heavy duty Excursion with a little lift on it."
4" is not really considered a little lift.
The way I would go about it is set up the front with the factory S/Duty spring of choice & if not happy with the 2" gain you get add the longer shackles or gain an easy 1/2" using a cut base spring (making a mini spring) from the old rear spring pack bolted under the front spring pack ( I just ordered the new grade 8 S/P center bolts needed to do that from JR. at ADS yesterday) . If you go any higher than that I don't think you can use stock link arms or track bar so you might as well go to a kit lift at that point. Once you have the front set the way you want it, the rear is easy to adjust to what ever rake (or not) that you desire. You set the rear S/P up, install it with the old u-bolts, (TEMP) Then you order the correct single rear blocks & U-bolts you need to get you where you want to be.


"FWIW, I recently bought a pair of longer shackles on Amazon for about $51 with free shipping. If I recall correctly, they are 2 inches longer than stock for about an inch of lift. I haven't installed them yet, so no confirmation on the actual amount of lift I get. They are in a box with a bunch of other stuff I'm compiling for a spring time suspension revamp (too cold here now). I consider myself a do-it-yourselfer also, but couldn't justify the effort on making my own set when I can buy them done for about $50.


Linky

Amazon.com: Performance Accessories (1702) Leveling Shackle: Automotive
Amazon.com: Performance Accessories (1702) Leveling Shackle: Automotive " from another thread today....
<!-- / message -->

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Thanks for taking the time to respond, especially posting all of those links. I understand your comment about the 4" of lift not being little. I guess I was reverting back to some comments in other threads about how the Excursion was 2" too low from the factory. At any rate 4" would be on the very high side of my range, with 3" probably being the ultimate goal.


So am I reading your post right in that you went with the S code front springs? Are those OEM on the Excursion? If so, isn't that kind of defeating the purpose of upgrading the springs to eliminate the cushy ride and front sag from the 7.3 diesel? I don't mind if it rides like a truck, as we plan on getting a minivan for my wife and kids!
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 02:23 PM
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"So am I reading your post right in that you went with the S code front springs? Are those OEM on the Excursion? If so, isn't that kind of defeating the purpose of upgrading the springs to eliminate the cushy ride and front sag from the 7.3 diesel? I don't mind if it rides like a truck, as we plan on getting a minivan for my wife and kids!"




NO, I was referring to the multitude of stock 250-550 Super Duty front spring packs. I personally am using the front spring packs off my 2000 7.3 Super Duty Ex-Cab camper special that I lifted @ 1500 miles. I'll add the overload spring (after cutting it down) that came with the B code from the F-250 spring packs I picked up. Where some of the confusion comes in is all the diff code #'s AND THE FACT THAT THE STOCK S/PACK FROM A SUPER DUTY PU WILL GIVE A 11/2"- 2" LIFT ON THE X. It's a higher arched, heavier load S/P than came on the XXX's.
 
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Old 01-31-2015, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SVTDarin
The V/B spring swap as opposed to buying a lift is it the cost or better towing capacity / less axle wrap or what?

Suspension lift companies say 4" or 5" for 35's I have seen trucks here with less lift and 35's. Is there a definitive minimum lift to safely run 35's on a truck that will see car towing duty maybe 4 times a year?

Just FYI- you can run 35s (315/75R16) on the rear no lift. The front bare min lift is a 2inch level pack. I ran this way for a couple years before my used V/C swap. You'll have a slight rub in front at full turn using stock rims. Here's a pic of that set up.
Ford Truck Picture by wpnaes | 851316 | Ford-Trucks
 
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