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new to me truck, dos and donts

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  #16  
Old 12-18-2014, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by phillips91
14-16 lbs is what is generally recommended. If you use anti-sieze remember to reduce your amount by about 10% since it increases clamping pressure on the threads.

I only use motorcraft. They are only $1.50 per plug at advance auto, so not expensive enough to warrant a substitute.

Unless it is cracked I just reuse the boot. I had one boot go bad on my van but all the others have been fine. Same for the coils too. Only replace the ones that go bad.
Would it be best to use anti-sieze? Never used it in plugs before.

So if I use anti-sieze I so 12-15 ftlbs, thanks a bunch. I plan on doing it this weekend.
 
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 75Three90
Would it be best to use anti-sieze? Never used it in plugs before.

So if I use anti-sieze I so 12-15 ftlbs, thanks a bunch. I plan on doing it this weekend.
That is up for debate. Some say yes and some say no. I have had good luck both ways.

I go with 14 if I use anti-sieze and 16 if I don't and that has worked for me. Just in case you didn't see my edit, use an inch pound wrench instead of a foot pound. Much more accurate for this application.
 
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by phillips91
14-16 lbs is what is generally recommended. If you use anti-sieze remember to reduce your amount by about 10% since it increases clamping pressure on the threads.

I only use motorcraft. They are only $1.50 per plug at advance auto, so not expensive enough to warrant a substitute.

Unless it is cracked I just reuse the boot. I had one boot go bad on my van but all the others have been fine. Same for the coils too. Only replace the ones that go bad.

Edit-I use an inch pound torque wrench instead of a foot pound for mine too. Most foot pound ones start at 10-15 lbs and aren't very accurate in that range.
Thanks a bunch brother. I plan on doing a tune up Saturday
 
  #19  
Old 12-18-2014, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 75Three90
Thanks a bunch brother. I plan on doing a tune up Saturday
No problem. Let us know how it goes or of you have any questions. If you use anti-sieze, use a thin coating and don't get any on the electrode.
 
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Old 12-18-2014, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by phillips91
No problem. Let us know how it goes or of you have any questions. If you use anti-sieze, use a thin coating and don't get any on the electrode.
Yes sir, ill update yall, I buy acouple boots just incase so I don't have to phone a friend to run me to the parts store.

Anything else I should check while I'm there?
 
  #21  
Old 12-18-2014, 08:42 PM
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Check vacuum hoses. There are several back there. One goes back around the tb. Any leak will give you fits with idle and shift points. Learn the routing or the truck will teach you. Lol
Oil- 5w-xx. In a modular. Specifically there is a restrictor up to the heads that is a little small. Long oil changes and thicker oil will cause cam follower trouble.
Sparky- early 2v did not have full threads in the head. If you blow a plug pull the injector lead to get it home.
And finally. Do Pet it every night. dont tell the significant other. One of them will get jealous....
 
  #22  
Old 12-18-2014, 08:43 PM
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Exhaust studs tend to rust on them and cause some problems, but that is the only thing other than the normal checks that you should need to do. Same as you would any other vehicle-check/change fluids and filters, belts, hoses, etc. They are a pretty reliable, low maintenance engine.
 
  #23  
Old 12-18-2014, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tim.moman
Check vacuum hoses. There are several back there. One goes back around the tb. Any leak will give you fits with idle and shift points. Learn the routing or the truck will teach you. Lol
Oil- 5w-xx. In a modular. Specifically there is a restrictor up to the heads that is a little small. Long oil changes and thicker oil will cause cam follower trouble.
Sparky- early 2v did not have full threads in the head. If you blow a plug pull the injector lead to get it home.
And finally. Do Pet it every night. dont tell the significant other. One of them will get jealous....
Thanks buddy, I named the truck Roony, since its Maroon and ive never owned a maroon truck before
 
  #24  
Old 12-19-2014, 08:45 AM
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do's are standard

change all the fluids unless you have proof of when it was done last
change all the filters unless you have proof of when it was done last

If battery is over 4 years old I would replace it.
 
  #25  
Old 12-19-2014, 12:17 PM
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5.4 2v and 3v are great motors. A little down on power, but they'll pull all day long and run forever with oil changes.
 
  #26  
Old 12-19-2014, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tylus
5.4 2v and 3v are great motors. A little down on power, but they'll pull all day long and run forever with oil changes.
This thing will burn the tires off the rims. Not a lack of power anywhere
 
  #27  
Old 12-19-2014, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 75Three90
This thing will burn the tires off the rims. Not a lack of power anywhere
No it won't. It will barely move an empty truck. Just preparing you for life as a 5.4 owner. No matter what you say it will do someone will come along to say you're lying and that your truck sucks
 
  #28  
Old 12-24-2014, 10:51 AM
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If you go the tuner route, disabling the torque control really helps the 5.4 out. If they don't know what you are talking about, just move on. That ford feature basically softens the shifts and pedal by pulling timing. My 98 f150 would pull back to negative numbers on hwy just going over overpasses. Watching timing while towing really is an eye opening to the laziness it sometimes would have. Did a 2006 as well.
 
  #29  
Old 12-24-2014, 11:03 AM
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more on exhaust studs as was mentioned above..

Check the passenger side rear (closest to the firewall) that is the main problem child..

Plenty of how too's on youtube on swapping them out.
 
  #30  
Old 12-25-2014, 03:50 AM
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Thanks fellas, I haven't been able to do much holidays are killing me
 


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