Hi everyone,

This is my first post, so I'd like to take just a minute and introduce myself and tell y'all my objectives.

First, I'm from the Front Range of Colorado (20 yrs) originally from Central NY. Cazenovia area.

Next, I learned to drive in the field behind my grandpa's house on a '71 F-100. It was a 3-on-the-tree and I was 8. He taped 2x4 blocks on the pedals so I could reach them.

Which leads me to my goal; purchasing a '67-'77 F-250 'High-boy'. I have a cabin up in the mountains of CO, which is where this truck will live. Ideally, looking for a flat-bed, with minimal rust and a 390 or bigger plant. Gotta be a manual tranny, as I want my 12 yr. old daughter to learn to drive manual. Good brakes and heater are a must.

I've found 3 flat beds. They're all nice, but none of them are the 'perfect' match. Which is where you all come in, I hope. Keep in mind, these are all flying distance from me, so I'll be buying sight unseen, and flying to the truck and driving it back home >1000 miles home.

Truck 1. '72. 390 fairly new build. 4bbl. Smokes a bit, and needs some engine seals replaced. Power assisted drums need some work. Open knuckle Dana 44. Owner will do brake work if I buy parts. Interior is good, but seat needs replaced. A front end shake at 70-75, which is faster than I plan on going. Horizontal stabilizer bar. No rust. Power assisted steering.

Truck 2. '75. 390 2 bbl. Brakes are new as is most/all of the hardware. power assisted drum. Closed knuckle Dana 44. Interior is in great shape. Seat perfect. Floor carpeting is good. No rust. Burns NO oil. Steering is loose.

Truck 3. '76. 390 4bbl, rebuilt Edlebrock. New hubs and tranny. Power steering. Open knuckle D 44. Interior is good as is seat. Steering wheel is from a GT and is a bit small for the job. Power steering. Doesn't need much if any work.

All three trucks are flatbeds, have goosenecks, warn hubs, manual trans w/ granny low, are in really good shape with either no or very minimal rust. Surface only, no cancer. Good heaters on all.

The '76 is $1600 more than the '75, which is $700 more than the '72. Cosmetically, I like the '75 least, but it's a close race. The other MAJOR caveat is that I'm pretty knowledgeable bookwise on these trucks, but I have NO PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE whatsoever. I can change oil, that's about it.

I'd love to hear your opinions. Specifically, I'm thinking about paying someone to do the necessary work each. On the '75 the loose steering could be bad tie rod ends, or a gearbox bushing. On the '72, I have no idea what seals would be causing the engine to smoke. Generally, which of these repair scenarios is easier/cheaper to fix?

I have information overload and paralysis. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Mac Johansen

 

Mac Welcome to and the Bumpside Forum

390s in these ol trucks is bullsheet. All FE 352s & 360s become 390s on sale day because you can not look at one and tell which it is. While there were some 390s put in pickups at the factory there were darn few. We all here like the 390 but the 352 is a good truck engine, the 360 is a very early attempt at emissions control, it is a 390 bore block with a 352 rotating assembly, most here spit on them although easy to build into a good engine.

Good thing is you are on the better side of the US for sheet metal. We have some excellent members here that are in your side of the world and can help you find a truck. I would suggest finding the body & bed that you want and work the running gear into it. Big thing is take your time don't rush. If you have to have a truck next go to a dealer.

I'm sure our west coast buds will chime in shortly.


John

 

Also, what's the etiquette for posting a request like this? Should I post in both the '67-'72 AND '73-'79 forums? I'd rather be set straight at the outset.


Thanks.

 

Mac, the thread is started, let it run.


John

 

The old addage is get the best truck that your money can buy... I'd go for the 76 Dentside regardless if it has a 390FE or 360FE. My reasons are as follows:

Integral PS - essentially a pressurized steering box which is waay better than the manual box and power assist cylinder in the 75. Swapping to integral in he 72 or 75 runs about $500 to $1000.

Disc-equipped Dana 44.. the 75 and 72 will have drums. Swapping to discs on a open-knuckle D44 will range from $500 to $1200.

.. and it already has a 4V intake and carb. You're that much ahead.

Ya didn't mention what tranny (NP-435?) or T-case (NP203 or NP205). But that would be my guesses. I just robbed a '76 in the yard of its NP435/205 combo for $360... the NP205 is what ya want because it is gear driven. If it's a Dana 21 T-case well it's not bad, but not as good. the 203 is chain-driven and decent enough.

So to me the 76 seems to be an overall better deal given your skill level. An extra $1600 goes a long way in buying more peace of mind.

 

Welcome to FTE

390's were not factory installed with 4WD - On sale day 352/360's magically become 390's!

F250 4WD (High Boy) factory installed V8's: 1967 = 352 2V / 1968/76 = 360 2V / 1977 = 351M/400.

The only P/S available for High Boys (available 1973/77 as an option) was Power Assist P/S. There are two different types, the parts do not interchange!

1973, 1974 before serial number T80,001: Garrison Power Assist P/S / 1974 from serial number T80,001, 1975/77: Bendix Power Assist P/S

All the parts are obsolete, expensive if found. The Bendix Power Assist P/S control valve seal kit is almost non existant.

Ford/Saginaw integral P/S: 1977 F250 4WD from serial number Y20,001 (not a High Boy) ~ 1978/79 F250 4WD ~ 1979 F350 4WD

1976 was the 1st year F100/250 4WD's were available with front disc brakes (standard equipment). 1967/75's were only available with front/rear drum brakes.

Pic of Bendix P/S control valve, the parts that cause loosy-goosy steering: 3A533 ball stud and 3304 .. which Ford calls the draglink:

 

Thanks for your help, fellas.

 

I'd also vote for the 76.
The 72 is recent build and smokes.....OUT.
The 75....how did it become a 390?...EEEEH.....a Maybe.
The 76....got 4V and it's rebuilt,new hubs and tranny,Doesn't need much work if any.....Perfect. He's prolly got that $1600 in the hubs,tranny, and I assume a new clutch.
So as long as he can tell you how it became a 390,not hear-say,and can prove it the 76 is my choice.

 

Turns out, the seller is only going by what the previous owner, a neighbor, told him, that it's a 390.

Let's say I get up there and it IS a 360. Should that be a showstopper? He has receipts for all the other work that's been done.

 

Mac, No is is not. On the other side of the same coin it very well could have a preferred 390 installed in it over the last 38 years.

But you did confirm our warning, the seller repeated what the neighbor heard his cousin say.



John

 

2X John.
Show stopper? Not to me but it may be to you. YOU are the one who wants 390 or more cubes. But that was before we informed you that 4x4's never came with anything bigger than a 360. Your call Buddy.

 

360 can easily be turned into a 390, or even a 428 (I think).

But 360s are pretty decent engines in these trucks. They can be made strong with lots of grunt, but they won't have the same "hot rod" power of the 390.

 

I advise the newbie to buy a 12-pack of cold adult beverages to think about it...:-drink

 

Ha-Ha. A little "thinkin' drinkin' ". 2X.

 

The '76. Flying out Friday to pick it up. Also found a killer deal on a Ski Doo, right on my way home! So this deal just feels right.

Thanks for your time and insight.

Regarding thinkin' drinkin', unfortunately, I'm an O'Doulls guy, so whether it's 1 or 12 doesn't make a hill o' beans difference. But I still make bad decisions anyway!