I noticed I have a leak on the backside of the the front axle where the front driveshaft connects to the axle. I believe there is seal(pinion), perhaps a dust seal? I know it's leaking because a.) you can see it, b.) the fluid has that awful smell of gear oil.

Can anyone point me in the direction of how to complete this repair?

Is this as simple as removing the driveshaft and then being able to remove that outer seal? (with obvious steps in between).

Or is this more complicated than that?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also the truck is in the garage for the winter so plenty of time to work on these types of things.

Thanks

 

MY 99 is also weeping.
The procedure is the same as do I g a pinion seal on the rear axle.

There is a crush sleeve in their that sets the backlash etc...
Fairly simple if you understand the parts inside , and what they do .


I am going to mark with paint the location of the nut .
Break it lose and measure the torque required to break it lose.
Then count the number of threads as I remove.the nut , and reverse the procedure when I reinstall .

 

NO.

Measure the toque to turn turn the pinion. When you reinstall it
you want the same tuning force + a small bit as you had before took the nut off.

Here is the PDF for the 2006 Read it and then do what it says
and you can stay out of redneck county.

The one thing is does not say. Remove the brake pads
so they are not resting on the rotors and upset the torque reading.
You should not have to with the hubs unlocked but you want to make
sure that they are truly unlocked.


Sean

 

Thanks for the infographic! Well that's a little more complicated then I thought with what seems like needing special tools, or at least tools I don't currently own. Hmm. Like I said I do have time so we'll have to see. I'll need to read that 100 times before I do anything. Great help and thanks!

 

All can be substituted. The hard one would be the seal driver and
even that one can be gotten around. The one you can't do without
is the in/lb dial torque wrench. The holder you can make. 1/2" plate
steel with some holes for the bolts and a bar welded on to hold onto.
If you drill a hole in the center you can use a puller to get the flange
off the shaft.

You may be able to find some of the tools on Ebay using the
part numbers in the PDF. Look around prices can vary so much
is crazy from more than MSRP to less than ¢ on the $.

EDIT : While your waiting on time to do it besure to check the oil level.
Don't want to run it dry.
Sean

 

I definitely get one of the in-lb torque wrenches as I can always use one again and see if the local parts place has some tools.

Gotta source the parts too. Ford pinion seal I've found and the u-joint strap and bolt kit. Nothing on the nut or crush washer but I'll keep looking.

After reading, it doesn't look that difficult. Just make sure to mark all the alignment of each piece and to make sure to have that in-lb torque measurement right.

 

You don't need the crush sleeve unless you over do the torque,
The in/lb torque wrench needs to be the constant read dial type.
A click one won't do.
See how the one on the Matco page is short? That way you can turn
it around and make a full circle rotation to make a good measurement.
3/8" DRIVE DIAL TORQUE WRENCH TWBDI150A | Matco Tools


Sean

 

Ya know I've been reading that you should also check the breather tube as a clogged one could force axle lube out vs actually having a leak? I'll be looking at that tomorrow hopefully. If it's not that, at the price of some tools it may make sense to just take it to my mechanic friend and just have him do it.

 

Check with these Ebay sellers
They are good.
blackhatauction on eBay
5hunter on eBay

I have had good luck with tools from them.

Sean

 

Yahico, is it not important to know what to torque the nut to?
I do appreciate the pdf.

 

Sorry, just read the doc and have answered my question.

 

Good that you got the answer.
For the ones that are just skimming over this.
You get the torque values by the reading you took on what it takes to
tunn the pinion. You then tighten the nut back to where it takes the same
force (torque) to tun it + a tiny bit more. In reality it can take a
100 Ft/Lb BUT don't guess or use that number because it WILL not be 100
that is one sure thing. Also use hand tools you can over shoot the target and
then your hosed. What you trying to do is load the bearings back to where
it was when you started.
Also there is a minimum that you can check in the SPECS. I forgot to post
that file and will here in a little bit. It's used in diagnostics.


Sean

 

Don't listen to any of the above^, I have fixed hundreds of these. You don't need any special tools either. Pry the seal out and tap a new one in but when you tighten the nut make sure is gets tight and there is a LITTLE drag on the pinion. If the nut won't get tight get back in here for more info or PM me. Go slowly so you don't "over drag" the pinion.

 

Well like I said I would post the other page for you and here it is.

After you have done one they you can decide on what steps
you want to do differently.

If EXv10 wants to come over and show you his way they he knows
where the road is and more than welcome to.

The reason I posted the PDFs was so that you can be informed as to
why things are done a certain way. The first time you do something
is not not the best time to try the by feel method. The only "special"
tool would be the torque wrench. That way you don't have to depend on
"feel" that you have not had time to develop.

Sean

 

That won't work here either, just do what I say and it will be fine. Can't feel a little drag?, it's really pretty simple. I'm done here since I am starting to see opposition.