Front pinion seal help?
#46
12-22-2014, 11:38 AM
Hey guys, let's not **** in each others' wheaties, ok? Sheesh.
Funny thing, the front axle is a Dana 60.
Never heard of a Dana 60 with a crush sleeve, so that's completely out of the equation.
Dana's pinion preload and position are setup with shims. If you pull the nut, and the flange, change the pinion seal, and put it all back together, torquing the nut to specs, you really don't need to check anything, as NOTHING HAS CHANGED. Just make sure it's not too tight to move by hand with the calipers off the rotors.
There is no crush collar. That's only in the Sterling rear 10.5/10.25" and Ford's 8.8 and others. Danas are all shims.
Funny thing, the front axle is a Dana 60.
Never heard of a Dana 60 with a crush sleeve, so that's completely out of the equation.
Dana's pinion preload and position are setup with shims. If you pull the nut, and the flange, change the pinion seal, and put it all back together, torquing the nut to specs, you really don't need to check anything, as NOTHING HAS CHANGED. Just make sure it's not too tight to move by hand with the calipers off the rotors.
There is no crush collar. That's only in the Sterling rear 10.5/10.25" and Ford's 8.8 and others. Danas are all shims.
I keep hearing about inch pound again, you don't need it here!
#47
12-22-2014, 12:11 PM
No. With 3-4 differing opinions it just confuses things. I trust what you posted because it's from a workshop manual. But then there are a few who say "eh just take it apart and put it back together".
What I thought would seem like a rather easy replacement has turned into confusion. Ha!
I've also read other sites saying torque that nut to something in the 200-250ft/lbs range and the write up talks about in/lbs.........
What I thought would seem like a rather easy replacement has turned into confusion. Ha!
I've also read other sites saying torque that nut to something in the 200-250ft/lbs range and the write up talks about in/lbs.........
#48
12-22-2014, 07:00 PM
Cargo Master
#49
12-22-2014, 07:57 PM
Yes, he is way out in left field. Very few people have a lot of experience with rear ends but there is plenty of guessing. That thing about marking down your torque figure and re-applying it is very wrong. Mis-info in here is something I don't like. Again; I am seeing a lot of wrong info on this thread. Even if you are an all around mechanic you will only do an occasional rear end but again; I specialized in them for 10 years. (So why do you keep doubting me?)
#50
12-22-2014, 08:48 PM
Cargo Master
#51
12-22-2014, 09:20 PM
Everything in this set of instructions is wrong;
he job really should not be that hard.
Pull the wheels off and the drive line.
Masure the turning torque. Mark that down
Make a holding tool for the flange and remove
the nut. Mark flange so it goes back in the same spot.
Pry the old seal out and place new one in evenly.
Put flange back on. Replace nut and torque slowly
checking the rotational force every now and then.
Once you reach the target your done. Put drive shaft
and wheels back on and drive away.
#52
12-22-2014, 09:24 PM
Cargo Master
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