Front pinion seal help?
#32
#33
It has spent time with long distance 4x4 operation in the past and during winters. Also my hubs would be left in the lock position in winter or when snow was forecasted that day (mine are all manual) which should be spinning everything creating heat. One problem is it's hard to tell if it's still leaking or if it's just residual as my whole undercarriage is coated in fluid film making everything to look like it's "leaking". But in all likelihood it's a job that needes to be done and with the truck sitting in the garage for the winter I can take all the time I need.
#34
It has spent time with long distance 4x4 operation in the past and during winters. Also my hubs would be left in the lock position in winter or when snow was forecasted that day (mine are all manual) which should be spinning everything creating heat. One problem is it's hard to tell if it's still leaking or if it's just residual as my whole undercarriage is coated in fluid film making everything to look like it's "leaking". But in all likelihood it's a job that needes to be done and with the truck sitting in the garage for the winter I can take all the time I need.
Sounds good, PM me or Sean if you need any more help..
#37
Hey guys, let's not **** in each others' wheaties, ok? Sheesh.
Funny thing, the front axle is a Dana 60.
Never heard of a Dana 60 with a crush sleeve, so that's completely out of the equation.
Dana's pinion preload and position are setup with shims. If you pull the nut, and the flange, change the pinion seal, and put it all back together, torquing the nut to specs, you really don't need to check anything, as NOTHING HAS CHANGED. Just make sure it's not too tight to move by hand with the calipers off the rotors.
There is no crush collar. That's only in the Sterling rear 10.5/10.25" and Ford's 8.8 and others. Danas are all shims.
Funny thing, the front axle is a Dana 60.
Never heard of a Dana 60 with a crush sleeve, so that's completely out of the equation.
Dana's pinion preload and position are setup with shims. If you pull the nut, and the flange, change the pinion seal, and put it all back together, torquing the nut to specs, you really don't need to check anything, as NOTHING HAS CHANGED. Just make sure it's not too tight to move by hand with the calipers off the rotors.
There is no crush collar. That's only in the Sterling rear 10.5/10.25" and Ford's 8.8 and others. Danas are all shims.
#38
Hey guys, let's not **** in each others' wheaties, ok? Sheesh.
Funny thing, the front axle is a Dana 60.
Never heard of a Dana 60 with a crush sleeve, so that's completely out of the equation.
Dana's pinion preload and position are setup with shims. If you pull the nut, and the flange, change the pinion seal, and put it all back together, torquing the nut to specs, you really don't need to check anything, as NOTHING HAS CHANGED. Just make sure it's not too tight to move by hand with the calipers off the rotors.
There is no crush collar. That's only in the Sterling rear 10.5/10.25" and Ford's 8.8 and others. Danas are all shims.
Funny thing, the front axle is a Dana 60.
Never heard of a Dana 60 with a crush sleeve, so that's completely out of the equation.
Dana's pinion preload and position are setup with shims. If you pull the nut, and the flange, change the pinion seal, and put it all back together, torquing the nut to specs, you really don't need to check anything, as NOTHING HAS CHANGED. Just make sure it's not too tight to move by hand with the calipers off the rotors.
There is no crush collar. That's only in the Sterling rear 10.5/10.25" and Ford's 8.8 and others. Danas are all shims.
#39
#40
What I thought would seem like a rather easy replacement has turned into confusion. Ha!
I've also read other sites saying torque that nut to something in the 200-250ft/lbs range and the write up talks about in/lbs.........
#41
No. With 3-4 differing opinions it just confuses things. I trust what you posted because it's from a workshop manual. But then there are a few who say "eh just take it apart and put it back together".
What I thought would seem like a rather easy replacement has turned into confusion. Ha!
I've also read other sites saying torque that nut to something in the 200-250ft/lbs range and the write up talks about in/lbs.........
What I thought would seem like a rather easy replacement has turned into confusion. Ha!
I've also read other sites saying torque that nut to something in the 200-250ft/lbs range and the write up talks about in/lbs.........
Here is the PDF that shows the crush sleeve page 205-03-8 step #18.
This is the full take it apart and reassemble PDF for the Dana 60
that is listed to be in the 2006 Super Duty 4X4 Front Axle.
Sean
Marry Christmas
Sorry if I am coming across as a bitch today. Gt someone pestering me from the other room.
The job really should not be that hard.
Pull the wheels off and the drive line.
Masure the turning torque. Mark that down
Make a holding tool for the flange and remove
the nut. Mark flange so it goes back in the same spot.
Pry the old seal out and place new one in evenly.
Put flange back on. Replace nut and torque slowly
checking the rotational force every now and then.
Once you reach the target your done. Put drive shaft
and wheels back on and drive away.
#42
Crap, just checked into it, and later Dana 60's DO use crush sleeves.
The procedure Yahiko posted shows doing it the "right" way by setting the pinion preload back to what it was before you took it apart. Again, if you go too far, you need to pull it apart and replace that crush sleeve.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ice_manual.pdf
Gives figures for new seal, (3 in/lbs) on top of existing preload. And that certain model Dana 60's do come with crush sleeves.
Sigh...
Yahiko, can you figure out from the tech manual if the crush sleeve can be removed without pulling the pinion out? (that would require pulling the axles and diff).
The procedure Yahiko posted shows doing it the "right" way by setting the pinion preload back to what it was before you took it apart. Again, if you go too far, you need to pull it apart and replace that crush sleeve.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ice_manual.pdf
Gives figures for new seal, (3 in/lbs) on top of existing preload. And that certain model Dana 60's do come with crush sleeves.
Sigh...
Yahiko, can you figure out from the tech manual if the crush sleeve can be removed without pulling the pinion out? (that would require pulling the axles and diff).
#43
Eh, I have those days all the time with knuckleheads. No prob.
Alright so when I take an initial reading for what it takes to rotate the flange/pinion (while everything is still together minus driveshaft) that is the reading (+3-5in/lbs) I need to get after torquing down the pinion nut? Basically there is no real torque wrench specification, just that rotational force torque measurement.
Sorry if I'm repeating but want to make sure my brain understands what I'm reading.
Alright so when I take an initial reading for what it takes to rotate the flange/pinion (while everything is still together minus driveshaft) that is the reading (+3-5in/lbs) I need to get after torquing down the pinion nut? Basically there is no real torque wrench specification, just that rotational force torque measurement.
Sorry if I'm repeating but want to make sure my brain understands what I'm reading.
#44
I think the only way your going to get the puppy out
would be to pull the axels out of the carrier and I don't
see any way to avoid also pulling the unit bearing to
get the clearances.
I do recall stories if people setting up all the preload and
then removing the crush sleeve and making an insert that
was the same length but not crushable. Something to do
with keeping the same preload under heavy shock loading.
4X4 racing I think. But that is more on the wild side of things.
How ever you look at it that pinion nut can be a bear to
get back on to the right value.
Sean
Marry Christmas
would be to pull the axels out of the carrier and I don't
see any way to avoid also pulling the unit bearing to
get the clearances.
I do recall stories if people setting up all the preload and
then removing the crush sleeve and making an insert that
was the same length but not crushable. Something to do
with keeping the same preload under heavy shock loading.
4X4 racing I think. But that is more on the wild side of things.
How ever you look at it that pinion nut can be a bear to
get back on to the right value.
Sean
Marry Christmas
#45
Eh, I have those days all the time with knuckleheads. No prob.
Alright so when I take an initial reading for what it takes to rotate the flange/pinion (while everything is still together minus driveshaft) that is the reading (+3-5in/lbs) I need to get after torquing down the pinion nut? Basically there is no real torque wrench specification, just that rotational force torque measurement.
Sorry if I'm repeating but want to make sure my brain understands what I'm reading.
Alright so when I take an initial reading for what it takes to rotate the flange/pinion (while everything is still together minus driveshaft) that is the reading (+3-5in/lbs) I need to get after torquing down the pinion nut? Basically there is no real torque wrench specification, just that rotational force torque measurement.
Sorry if I'm repeating but want to make sure my brain understands what I'm reading.
that is giving them to me I know that we are both clear on what
I need to do. (Aircraft mechanic training) It is better to understand
something the first time and not have a FUBAR moment.
Sean
Marry Christmas