1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Dum dum in the cowl?!?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #16  
Old 12-17-2014, 06:32 PM
FordFETruck's Avatar
FordFETruck
FordFETruck is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Algona,WA
Posts: 4,488
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
Good thing in the spring I'm going to remove my cowl grate/cover piece to paint it. I'll re do the seam sealer then.

I also have a small leak that's been there for years on the passenger side. To the left of my heater core box, the big glob of seam sealer has cracked out, leaks in my floor vent then rolls it's way along the corner of the inside of the cab and goes out between the door and cab. I'm going to fix that in the spring as well. I majorly slowed that leak by putting clear silicone in that hole, but it hasn't cured it. I also siliconed the screws and around the antenna as some was getting in through there as well.
 
  #17  
Old 12-18-2014, 04:53 AM
ArdWrknTrk's Avatar
ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk is offline
pedant

Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: EXTREME southwest CT
Posts: 23,576
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
I had to do this last year, when installing a new windshield didn't fix all my leaks.

Chipping that stuff out as far as I could down around the sides of the cowl was a pita.

I ended up using some low modulus urethane caulk in the hopes that its flowing/self leveling properties would let it seep in where I couldn't get everything perfectly clean.
We use this on expansion joints and where metal facades meet a concrete sidewalk, for example.

If you try this, make sure it doesn't all run down and clog the drains at the lower rear corner of the fender.
That would cause an even bigger problem.

Matthew,
Nothing is making it out between the door and the cab.
The pinch weld where the door seal attaches turns up a good 3/4" and holds everything in (until the floor rots through)
 
  #18  
Old 12-18-2014, 07:09 AM
SVTDriver97's Avatar
SVTDriver97
SVTDriver97 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MN
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by ctubutis
I'm most familiar with a leaking heater core causing stuff like this; it gets far worse when trying to run the defroster with a leak.
I fired it up after I took that picture, and cranked up the defroster.

Got everything un-fogged, and dry.

This morning, it was 9 degrees, and all the windows on the inside were clear.

Truck just turned over 49k, I know heater cores can leak at any time, but since I thoroughly cleaned out the evaporator, the air box, and all the surrounding areas where crap can collect, I think I improved my heater cores life a little.
 
  #19  
Old 12-18-2014, 07:12 AM
SVTDriver97's Avatar
SVTDriver97
SVTDriver97 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MN
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Franklin2
1st thing to do is pull the carpet/mat/ padding completely out. You have more of a leak than that drip if the windows are fogging up like that. And it's probably rusting your floorboard out as we speak. I bet it's soaked underneath.

Once that is out of the way, you can better diagnose where the leak is coming from.
I've felt the carpet, and it's dry. Been dry since summer, and that's when I bought the truck. That's also when I put down the Husky Liners, so no water has gotten through. I had the carpet up on that side a few months ago and she was dry underneath. This leak just started happening at the beginning of winter.

With it being so cold, any water that may be under there right now won't be attacking any rust because it would be ice by now.
 
  #20  
Old 12-18-2014, 03:13 PM
FordFETruck's Avatar
FordFETruck
FordFETruck is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Algona,WA
Posts: 4,488
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
I had to do this last year, when installing a new windshield didn't fix all my leaks.

Chipping that stuff out as far as I could down around the sides of the cowl was a pita.

I ended up using some low modulus urethane caulk in the hopes that its flowing/self leveling properties would let it seep in where I couldn't get everything perfectly clean.
We use this on expansion joints and where metal facades meet a concrete sidewalk, for example.

If you try this, make sure it doesn't all run down and clog the drains at the lower rear corner of the fender.
That would cause an even bigger problem.

Matthew,
Nothing is making it out between the door and the cab.
The pinch weld where the door seal attaches turns up a good 3/4" and holds everything in (until the floor rots through)
It does now it rusted a little hole there so it escapes. The little rust spot I treated on the door right beside it shows as well. I've had it all apart before and watched it do what I describe. It's pretty annoying but I'll fix it soon.






Now, when I opened my drivers door. I saw a drop of water come from about the center part of the roof where the steering wheel is positioned. I've seen that before too. But, I can reach up there and feel the windshield seal and it's bone dry. So, I'm not sure if I'm seeing things or what. As far as the passenger side, it's had that leak for years from what I saw. I'm just glad I was able to clean it up and seal it before it got worse.
 
  #21  
Old 12-19-2014, 09:55 AM
SVTDriver97's Avatar
SVTDriver97
SVTDriver97 is offline
More Turbo
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MN
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Anyone have any advice on a good seam sealer?

Best way to chip all of that old stuff out? Just use a scraper and screwdriver?

3M? Eastwood?
 
  #22  
Old 12-19-2014, 03:19 PM
FordFETruck's Avatar
FordFETruck
FordFETruck is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Algona,WA
Posts: 4,488
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
I used 3M dynatron on my drip rails before I repainted the top of the cab.
 
  #23  
Old 12-20-2014, 07:49 AM
Diesel_Brad's Avatar
Diesel_Brad
Diesel_Brad is offline
Fleet Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Gilbert, PA
Posts: 21,431
Received 59 Likes on 48 Posts
Originally Posted by SVTDriver97
Anyone have any advice on a good seam sealer?

Best way to chip all of that old stuff out? Just use a scraper and screwdriver?

3M? Eastwood?
I have a "hook" blade putty knife that works well.

For the seam sealer I use 2 part either 3m or norton
3M Self-Leveling Seam Sealer, 200 mL, 08307

Amazon.com: Norton 636425-97120 SpeedGrip Epoxy Seam Sealer: Automotive Amazon.com: Norton 636425-97120 SpeedGrip Epoxy Seam Sealer: Automotive
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BaronVonAutomatc
1978 - 1996 Big Bronco
9
01-05-2020 10:55 AM
brc777
1997 - 2003 F150
5
03-10-2018 04:16 AM
cadunkle
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
12-23-2013 08:21 AM
jstephens2
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
09-23-2011 11:32 PM
jazzmaffy
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
06-16-2010 04:29 PM



Quick Reply: Dum dum in the cowl?!?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:14 PM.