So I have a problem where when my 6.0 is cold it just cranks and cranks and no start. If I have it plugged in it fires right up or if I've ran it up to temp. I tested the ficm yesterday and it read between 48-50 volts when key on, cranking and running. The truck has 187k and is deleted. It does have an oil leak and I dunno where it comes from. If anyone has info or could help it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Do you have anything that can read live data? Without live data all any of us can do is guess.
Educated guesses but still a guess.

 

All I've got is a multimeter. Thinking of going and buying a scangauge 2. It's that or bills. Haha! I'm thinking possibly ipr. It almost seems that when I crank and crank it is just taking so long for it to build pressure. If I do get it started today I can take it to autozone and get some codes pulled.

 

Codes first. If plugging it in help maybe you have a bad glow plug module. But without some codes and data it's all shooting in the wind...

 

You can try unplugging the ICP sensor see if it starts and stays running.
This will test the IPR; Hpop system and the ICP. If it stays running you can drive it that way to get your codes read.

 

Okay so tried all day to start and no go. Tried the icp being unplugged and that was a no go. Went and bought a scangauge 2 but batteries ended up dying so pulled them and tested them. One had 225 CCA and the other had 655 CCA. Was able to pull a code and it was P2285 which I think was from unplugging the icp. Charging tonight to see if it will do anything but I think that one of my batteries is shot.

 

On a 6.0 both batteries should be the same size. Low vlt/amps can kill FICM; injectors and many other issues that can cause a no start. Primarily sync, even if everything else is good no sync/SYNC you will not get start. The PCM and FICM will not know when and where to fire the injectors.

 

If the sync is bad then how would you go about fixing it?

 

Without something to read live data it will be nearly impossible to tell if your makeing sync or not. Sync is a state of being not a part. There are 2 syncs. actually.

1. The relative positions of the CAM and crankshaft by a comparison of the signals from the CAM and CKT sensors. Each time you start the engine the PCM has to relearn where the positions of the pistons in relation to the fireing order and the valve train components. Once the PCM establishes this you get sync.
2. Next the PCM communicates with the FICM and checks to see if they are on the same page [so to speak]. Once that is established SYNC is achieved and the PCM then tells the FICM which injector to fire when and for how long.
3. You get start and a running engine. Anytime you loose these signals the engine quits running.
4. Both sensors are electromagnets and generate a magnetic field. The cam pin and the gap in the tone ring of the crank passing thru and breaking that field, creates a electrical pulse which the PCM reads thru the sensor signal.
5. When you don't receive a signal from the sensor you either replace the sensor or repair the wire circuit to the sensor.
6. A complex process to determin a simple thing because on your live data all you will see is yes or no or 1 or 2 to determin sync.

 

So with it getting no sync, how would I go about diagnosing of what the issue is?

 

Bad cam or crank sensor or wireing to them.
The only other way is with a labscope or ocilloscope both very exspensive many shops do not even have them.

 

he says if it is plugged in it starts right up.

 

So I'm pretty sure I figured out the issue. Had to buy new batteries, bought a scangauge 2, was running good, no issues, wouldn't start again with no sync, played with the wires a bit and it started up. Bad wire or connection somewhere. Now the fun starts. Haha!

 

glad to hear your on track to finding your problem.Please post the results when you find the trouble wiring.