Hello all,

My '66 F-250 motor blew on the highway a couple weeks ago. I'm seeking advice from the experts here on how to proceed.

Stats:
-1966 F-250 long bed 2WD actual Mileage unkown
-originally a 6 cyl converted to 390 V-8 (long before I bought it)
-has C6 auto transmission with a 3 speed
-was running strong (had a rebuilt top end about 3 years ago)
-brakes need to be rebuilt
-tires/wheels are good
-low geared rear end, not sure what's in there
-has a mostly straight body but has some bed rust, a little inn the tailgate (but not holes yet) front fenders have usual rust holes behind wheels (4" in diameter) and the cab mounts have some rust
-radiator, cap, rotor, ignition, battery all new as of 3 months ago
* I bought this truck about 3 weeks before it blew up as a work truck form my rental homes and because it is a cool as hell truck

I called around and have quotes on a rebuild that range from $1800 (2 year warranty but no hardened seats) to $6000 (the full monte and a rebuilt trans & rear end) My best guess is that the truck is worth $2500 in good running order. I'd like to keep it but I don't want to dump another $6000 into it when it'll only be a work truck (could get a much newer, less cool, truck for that)

I live in the Denver CO metro area. hopefully that provides enough insight to get some solid advice.

Thanks in advance!!!

 

First, WELCOME to FTE, and you can find a lot of advice here that is quite valuable.
Sorry to hear of your troubles, my Slick blew it's engine on the freeway much like yours did years ago. I transplanted a 460, though.

Putting my self into your shoes, the quickest and cheapest fix would be to get a used engine.
Your "390" can be replaced with a bolt-in, exact fit solution with any FE engine. The most common FE engines, and the ones used in Ford trucks were the 352 (to '68), the 360 and the 390, up to '76. Note that all FE engines look identical on the outside.
The fastest option is a junkyard, where you might be able to get a guarantee.
Otherwise, I would look around for a rusted out '68-'76 F-100 to F-250 with a 360 or 390. (Even a '67 or '68 with a 352 would work just as well.) I would buy the entire rust bucket as cheap as I could, and then transplant the engine.
The year 1976 is important for the FE engine, as it is the last year Ford made the FE. (FEs were discontinued from cars about 1970, so don't discount that possibility.)

(If you get a '73 or later F-250, you can transplant the disc brakes and power steering rather easily, but that's a lesser concern right now.)

Then, part out the rest of the truck, and you can get a good portion of your money back.

I agree, dropping all that money on a new drivetrain is not the best idea.

Just my opinion, and I wish you the best of luck.

John - "banjo" -

 

thanks for the advice! I've looked around and have mechanics tell me that you can't just drop one in there without modding the engine mounts etc. There's a guy here locally that has a 390 strapped to a 4 speed manual that he's selling for about $600 (was running 6 mo ago when it came out of a '73 F-150). He said there'd be modifications to the bellhousing etc required to get it to work with my C6 auto. Is that true or would it be fairly easy?

I'm only knowledgeable enough on engines to be dangerous

Thanks again

Brian

 

In would be a bolt in after you rob the flexplate off your original. Starter nose cones may be different. Not sure on that. Keep in mind that all 352's and 360's magically become 390's on sale day. Only way to id is by the stroke. Spark plug wrench, a sharpie and a radio antenna will prove its identity without pulling the pan.

 

good to know!! thanks! Do you know off hand what the stroke should be for a 390 vs a 360 etc? Really just the measurement for the stroke..

Brian

 

Brian, that doesn't sound right to me. An FE block is an FE block. You would need to use your C-6 flexplate and so forth on an engine that has a flywheel, but that should be all.
I actually converted my 352 from a 3-speed manual to a C6 automatic, and the only changes required were removing the manual transmission parts like the flywheel and pilot bearing, then installing the flexplate.
Besides, you cannot modify the bellhousing on any C-6, it is cast as one piece to the engine family it is designed for.
If the engine in question is an FE that came out of an F-150, then it will bolt up to your FE transmission.

Possibly, he is confusing different engine families?

Perhaps it may be useful just as a precaution and for your peace of mind, to confirm your truck has an FE engine and a C-6.

You might read and post in the FE forum here at FTE - there are separate forums for the different engine families.

Best of luck!

John - "banjo" -

 

Here are the FE stroke specs: 3.98 inches is the stroke for the 410 and 428 engines; 3.78 inches is the stroke for the 390, 406 and 427 engines and 3.5 inches is the stroke for the 352 and 360 engines.

Here's the easy way to check the stroke without removing the head. Get a straight 12 inch piece of white electrical house wire or coat hanger wire. Get a magic marker. Remove the number 1 spark plug. Now, put the wire in the number 1 spark plug hole with the wire resting on the top of the piston. Turn the engine over by hand until the wire is as high as it will go. Make a mark on the wire even with the lip on the valve cover. Next, rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees, until the wire is at its lowest point. Mark the wire again, at the lip, and measure the distance between the two marks.

 

great advice, thanks!

 

Just a little info, any motor from a 65-79 ford pickup will work as long as you take the motor mount perches with it. The frame architecture from the back of the cab forward is the same from 65-79. A 351M, 400M or 460 will use the same bolt pattern C6. A nice choice would be a 302 because of the low geared rear end but that would require the small block C6. Parts are abundant for the 302 and it would get much better gas mileage.
Just a thought but the 66 F250 in my yard has a Cruiseomatic transmission and I don't know the difference between that and a C6

 

Rusted out, blowed up truck with bad brakes? I think I'd just buy another good running truck. It would be way cheaper. Don't pour more money down a rathole just because there is already some down there. just my 2 cents.

 

Appreciated, exactly why I'm posting here. I'm torn on the whole thing, love the truck but....

 

Benefits of owning an older truck -
Easier to track down and solve problems
Easier to work on - especially without computer controls
Fewer hassles with inspections
Fewer hassles with emissions
Cheaper to insure, usually (liability only, that is)
Cannot put a value on the cool factor!
'65 and later trucks are easy to get parts for, as opposed to '64 and later.

Just my opinion!

John aka "Banjo" -

 

If we weren't almost 2000 miles apart I'd have a 352 along with a bunch of 360-390 parts for you at a good buck!
I'm in upstate NY

 

Sometimes it's best for the relationship to set the object of your love free...

 

For the most part, 1953/56 trucks are also EZ to get parts for. 1956's are probably the most popular among collectors.