I just put in a new South Bend 1944-60FEK.... i replaced everything down there... i put in a new flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, replaced the Kevlar pilot bearing that came with the kit with a Dorman oil impregnated brass bushing, I updated my old stock (bad version clutch fork to the new updated version even tho my old one was still good, And even the clutch fork ball stud, changed all fluids.

Its a very soft clutch, like driving a complete different vehicle... it goes into every geaf easily, except for 2nd, when upshifting i can pull it in as hard as i can and it will go in. But if a slow nornal rate, or down shifting. Going into 2nd gear grinds and has trouble...

It didnt do that before i changed my clutch, does anyone know what is causing this??

 

Dammit! You replaced the same things as me, except I left the stock clutch fork. I don't have the experience to offer any advice on this one, hopefully the other hand-shakers have an idea.

My South Bend also had the soft pedal feel after swapping - I almost stalled the truck on the first drive. It just takes a little bit to adapt to it. It's definitely normal for them, though, and isn't any indication of a problem.

 

Remove your clutch helper spring on the clutch pedal will help you with soft pedal did mine

 

Isnt the helper spring the big spring on the pedal? Dosent it help pull it back up? Because right before i changed my clutchbeverytime i pushed the clutch in u could hear it making a popping noise when i got to a certian position....

Its the 2nd gear thing bothering me, thatd what i need fixed the most....

 

Clutch dragging slightly and weak syncros on second gear?

 

Sounds like a transmission problem to me. I have never seen a new clutch affect how 1 gear will shift. I have seen shifting problems caused by the type/brand of gear lube put into the transmission and also under filling. I would make sure the tranny is full, the proper spec fluid was used and/or refill with another brand oil or factory oil. If that doesn't work I would suspect a worn syncro, bearing or bushing in the transmission.

 

724 removal of spring is a fix for soft pedal and under hard hard pull the pedal may not come right back up the info I am providing in on south bends site I think don't hold me to it but kwik or dead added a spring to pull his up a helper so to speak

 

I had the same issue with 2nd gear. Tried all kinds of oil and even mixed my own to try. Didn't work very well. The last I tried is Amsoil Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid. It works great. Changed the way the shifting is in all temperatures. Very happy with it.

 

sounds like the syncro. I lived with that is 4th gear until I lost the front bearing on the main shaft. the syncro hub was in pieces when I tore my trans apart.

 

I cannot afford for that to.be the problem. I heard our synchros are paired, and i dont have a problem with 1st gear at all...

 

how much play in pedal til theres resistance?

 

They use the same shift fork, slider, and hub however, they have their own synchronizer ring for each gear which is most likely what you have going on.

You can always have wear on the corresponding gear side of each of those parts and not the other (in your case 2nd).

Now shift fork wear can sometimes cause issues with the corresponding 2 gears it controls. The shift fork moves the slider when the driver make a shift. The slider moves and engages the gear while the synchronizer ring helps align the gear with the slider. Wear in any of these components can cause a grind, nip, hard shift, etc.

In your case, as mentioned, I would try the AMS Oil synchromesh oil but don't be surprised if it doesn't help.

What was the symptom you were having that lead to clutch replacement?

 

Well, origionally one day i was at a dead stop with my brakes locked and my clutch in while in gear, with my wheels turned all the way to the right.

At that point my truck got rear ended, pushing m a couple feet, destroying some front end parts and then a clutch issuse im about to state.

Keep in mind, my clutch worked fine and perfect before this. No gear grinded, it didnt slip, it worked fine. That was OEM clutch with 193k miles on it. The ONLY problem i ever felt with it was on my 100HP TUNE, Ifbi was in a power gear like 3rd or 4th and i mashed the pedal, the RPMs would rise decently, and the speed/power would stay the same barely slowly rising... unless i eased into the pedal it would react alittle better.

So that itself made me feel i needed an updated clutch, but i was in no hurry.

But after the wreck i ended up having NO clutch, i could not get it in gear with the engine running no matter how far i push the clutch or how hard i pushed the shifter.

So after many posts on here and the dealership looking at it they determined i needed a new clutch.

So i went and bought a new South Bend 1944-60FEK complete clutch kit, with a new throwout bearing, kevlar pilot bearing and flywheel. I traded the kevlar pulot bearing for a dorman brass impregnated bushing, and i updated thr old model fork that was still in good condition for the new updated version.

I dropped the transmission and swapped the clutch. And now 2nd gear grinds going in. It never did that before.....


I hear its.the synchro which is a bigger kick in the, you know.., i wish it wasnt so and there was something i could fix it with cheaper and easier. Im broke, no truck, its christmas, i really want to give up right about now...

 

Damn man, sorry to hear, but, where was this poasting, #12 posts earlier. All of us that posted up, might've had a different view..like, let the idiot who hit you, insurance take care of it..or..did your foot slip off clutch pedal, giving your truck the result of being towed with it in gear. That outcome, i can see it doing damage internally....good luck bro

 

There was no luck, i have made a few previous posts, during the whole situation. Idiots insurance will NOT pay for anything but a hitch and a bumper, because the front end problems/alignment and the clutch can not be PROVEN to be accident related, wethet i could drive before the accident or not, and now i cant, dosent mean anything. They have to PROVE IT was directly related..... <br /><br />
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And because i changed my master and slave unit before, to jim.... that automatically meant I PREVIOUSLY HAD A BAD CLUTCH. And that it was going to go anyways, and if the accident magnified or amplified the problem, not their fault, because it was already "pre-existing"... i fought round and round on this, i will be contacting my lawyer, but for now i kust need the truck fixed.... overall, with everything, this "accident" has cost me over $4000 almost 5,000 since Nov 4th, and my wife her job.... i cant take any more of a beating, credit cards are maxed, savings is gone, cash is gone, kids are having a very very minimal christmas, all donated by catholic charity.