While shooting pictures for the next F1 fender rust repair installment, Gary decided to try shooting a video as well as stills.
Here's a link to that test on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/attribution_l...are_video_user
Just remember this was shot off the cuff spur of the moment and nothing was planned or scripted.
This was the start of curving the lower fender patch using my shrinker/stretcher set.
It would be nice to be able to put the phone/camera on a tripod or have a third person acting as videographer. Has I known it was going to come out this well, would have shot more of the process on video. Writing up the next installment: lower rear fender section replacement including a number of still shots will be posted in the next few days.

 

Thank you! Not sure if you hear that enough but I really mean it. I am amazed at how much you do to help guys like me out. I enjoy this hobby and doing things but it is so much better learning how to do then correctly. So thank you !

 

I like it, the video is a great addition to the learning process, for people like me who have reading disabilities.

 

I built a stand similar to yours for the shrinker/stretcher but I made mine with two foot peddles which doesn't take as much horsepower to operate.
I will send a picture if you are interested.
TractormanBill

 

Post a picture here Bill.

 

I got the stand with the S-S set as a promo. The post is in a socket so it can be rotated for clearance or to switch tools. The foot pedals are nice if you have plenty of space for/around it or don't mind picking up and carrying the extra weight to reposition it. I've got plenty of extra weight to lean on the handle, so hasn't been a problem. Please do post a pic for everyone to see.

 

Dave, Thank yous and rep points are always appreciated, lets me know that someone is benefiting from my posts, otherwise if there are no comments I don't know if anyone cares if I post or not. I like the video, the quality was much better than I expected for being shot with a phone. The big problem is that it ties up one of us to hold/aim the phone, and we get involved in what we're doing so it's easy to forget to record when things get the most interesting. Like we didn't do the promised follow up of the panel curving after 2 or 3 passes thru the shrinker when the curving happens quickly and dramatically, or the shrinker being used to match the seam length along the cut so the fender continues it's top to bottom shallow compound curve across the seam. It was a quick decision/action, during the test fitting of the patch I did a light shrinking along the seam line. It was subtle but dramatic the way the seam lined up perfectly, only took a couple minutes, but was the kind of detail that will make a big difference in the finished appearance.

 

Very cool and informative. That is an interesting piece of equipment. Thanks Ax

 

I had a complete drawing with all the specs. but I trashed them after I built my stand. Here are some pictures with some notes which might be good enough to build a stand from. Guess I could have blown off the dust and it looks like Hell. I planned on blasting it and painting it sometime ago but got busy using it and never got around to it. Email if you need more info.
tractorman@billstractor.com

 

Yes, they are quite useful in metal shaping, you can do a lot more with them than just curving. In my favorite Ron Covell video he shows how he uses it to help form a deep dome shape.
If considering buy, I'd recommend splurging on the two body set, but a single body with two sets of jaws is better than nothing, it takes about 5 minutes to switch jaw sets each time you go from shrinking to stretching with one body (you often switch back and forth when changing direction or correcting too much use of one or the other) since any forming of more than a very shallow curve requires multiple passes, forming a tight S curve can require a doz or so jaw switches.
Also spend the extra money on buying a made in USA machine(s). The jaws are made from higher grade steel and properly hardened so the very fine teeth (similar to fine file teeth) will grab and move the metal smoothly and last much longer, as well as being able to be used on heavier material. The Chinese units capacities are over rated.
A couple brands that are good are Van Sant and Mittler Bros. (units I have)
If you've already bought a chinese set and the jaws are worn out, not working, you can usually use a replacement set from Mittler Bros. in your housings to recover part of your investment.

 

Thanks for posting pics of your shrinker /stretcher stand Bill. reps sent.

 

Hope someone can figure out the dimensions from the pictures if they decide to build one and it really worked great. If not just let me know and I am sorry I trashed all my drawings.
TractormanBill

 

This is not a firm plan or sales offer, but I'd like to gauge the interest and perceived value if I were to produce a DVD of forming repair patch(es) or sheet metal shaping, or metal finishing.
How many here would be interested in purchasing such a DVD yes or no (if yes please indicate: definitely; maybe, would think about it, every one you do!)

Indicate subject interest order: 1.) Forming and installing a rust repair patch. 2.) General sheet metal shaping techniques using basic tools (include tool selection guide ?); 3.) Dent removal and metal finishing. 4.) Other (specify)

What is maximum you would be willing to pay for an approximately hour long video on each of these subjects? What if divided into shorter multipart offerings, each covering one or two portions of each subject.

 

3) Dent removal and metal finishing. DEFINITELY
1) Forming and installing a rust repair patch. MAYBE
2) General sheet metal shaping techniques using basic tools (include tool selection guide. MAYBE

$30 for 1 hour video

 

$25-30 would sound about right for a one hour. I would rather see it as one video but segments on each part. Easier to review