Can I swap my 2 piece out for a one piece in my 88 ranger supercab? It is a 4x4 5 speed.

 

See if this has what you need: Ford Ranger one piece rear driveshaft swap

 

The link did not work?

 

Never mind it finally worked. Ok I'm gonna get me one of those. But what does this mean exactly *If you own a 1983-1989 Supercab model, this swap can still be done, but the rear driveshaft flange on the axle will be smaller. You will need to swap the larger rear U-joint attachment with 3" bolt spacing with another forward one that has a 2.5" bolt spacing.*

I'm just a little confused.

Also a driveshaft is balanced, so how do I know I installed it right? Or do I just bolt it in?

 

Just a guess here as I don't quite understand their terminology. I'm thinking that the flange on the driveshaft that mates with the pinion yoke flange is smaller on the '83-'89 models. If that is the case, you need to remove the rear flange from the one-piece driveshaft and replace it with the flange from your current driveshaft. That would be easier than swapping out the pinion yokes, if they will even interchange. I think if you put the two driveshafts side-by-side, it will be fairly obvious what you need to do.

I understand your desire to improve your truck, but is there a reason you want the one-piece driveshaft? I never had any issues with the two-piece unit in my '91 during the 170k miles I owned it.


My thoughts on this. Someone else can set me straight if I'm totally off base. There are at least two things to worry about that are related to the driveshaft: balance and runout. I'll ignore things like the ujoints, but they should not have any freeplay.

The driveshaft can be balanced independently of the transmission or rear axle. However, if you are concerned about total runout (how much the driveshaft centerline "orbits" around the true centerline of the pinion yoke), then you need to check runout with the driveshaft installed. Runout will contribute to vibration and higher loads on the pinion bearing and transmission tailshaft bearing. If runout is excessive (I don't know what that number is), you could try installing the driveshaft flange so that the driveshaft flange holes line up with a different set of mating holes on the pinion yoke flange. If I remember correctly, the pinion yoke flange has 8 holes (at least it does on my Explorer).

You'll need a dial indicator and a mag base or other holding fixture to check runout. And, it will be tough to get a good measurement with a rusty driveshaft but checking at the flange is probably better anyway. Using some hillbilly engineering, you could probably also come up with a setup with a piece of steel or wood clamped to a frame member or other solid part so that it is spaced a certain distance from the driveshaft flange and then rotate the driveshaft and measure with feeler gauges how much the distance changes as a function of rotation angle.

When I replaced the rear axle in my Explorer, I didn't worry about the runout. Although, now that I write this, I think I should. There is a cyclic noise at about 65 mph that existed before I changed the axle (and still exists), but I might be able to reduce/eliminate the noise by checking runout and adjusting the driveshaft location relative to the pinion flange. I think the noise is due to something wrong with 5th gear based on the characteristics, but checking the easy stuff first makes sense.

 

Most driveshaft shops can lengthen or shorten or repair an original/stock driveshaft, or take the ends and put them on a brand new, correct-for-length driveshaft. Might be spendy, but if that's what you want...

 

Quote:I understand your desire to improve your truck, but is there a reason you want the one-piece driveshaft? I never had any issues with the two-piece unit in my '91 during the 170k miles I owned it.qoute;

I am wanting to eliminate the center support bearing. I am going to lift the truck and I've heard it's easier to do with a one piece driveshaft. Also it's less U-joints I have to replace when or if one breaks.

Quote;tmcalavy: Most driveshaft shops can lengthen or shorten or repair an original/stock driveshaft, or take the ends and put them on a brand new, correct-for-length driveshaft. Might be spendy, but if that's what you want...;quote;

I not sure if there is a driveshaft shop around me and I don't have the money for a custom one.

 

Yep, know that situation well...just figured that you may be close to IN corn country, seems there always a powerline/drivetrain shop in the towns where farming drives the entire local economy...the guys who repair farm implements probably know where one is near you.

 

Lol I forgot about that. I know a couple farmers. I will ask if they know of one.