Riffraff will work. I personally got mine from bob at www.dieselorings.com. He is a little closer to me then Clay and I normally get his stuff at least a day faster for my location then riffraff.

 

ill have to see who got the best price, as shipping can be a big difference between someone that only ships ups and one that ships flatrate usps.

just checked, same sale price on both but diesel orings won the shipping at $4.56 compared to riff raffs shipping of $6.65

 

FWIW, Clay ships Bob's kit for this, so the parts are the same. Both great folks, too.

Mark

 

where did you get them?do you know the sizes?thanks

 

lowes and home depot have them drains.

 

I just loosen the block heater element until I can feel it clear the last thread, screw it back in a half turn or so, and walk away until it's done draining. Much less mess that way . . .

 

Shoot. I tried taking out the element on mine to do that. Forget it. I think it's welded in. Is a very good idea though.

 

The drains came from Lowes. The longer one is a Mercury Outboard part number. Only reason I used it is because it was just laying around the shop and was free. If you need that number, I can get it next week for you. They are both 1/4" NPT threads. Any hardware store should have the threaded one pictured for under $10.00

 

1/2" drive socket, PB blaster, and a BFH?

 

Speaking of which, I couldn't find a torque spec for reinstalling the heater, but it's just going into aluminum, so I wouldn't think it would be that tight. I used thread sealant, rather than locktite.

Mark

 

Thread sealant, yes. Easy in, great seal, easy out.

 

Any boat dealer should have them or you can get them on eBay

 

I am late back to the party. Two of my o-rings came from a supply warehouse in Reno and the other two came from International in Reno.

 

thank you thank you!

 

what flows where at in the oil cooler? anyone know? i think mines looks like just a littke oil but could be comming off valve covers since starter is oily on other side too