Hi guys, any tricks to remove the pins holding the doors in the bracket? I want to take doors off cab to do some body work. Past two nights I have been soaking with pb blaster and using a BFH and punch to drive up. I have been able to move pins slightly but not budging. I've also managed to whack my thumb and hand a few times (LOL). Next I was going to try a little heat to see if that will help. Before I did that I was going to see if anybody had any first hand experience using some type of press, air hammer, or a homemade tool...?

Thanks,
Gary

 

The times I've done it before I did just what you are doing. I did it the hard way driving the pins up. Today I moved to that step on my project cab by grinding the heads off, soaking, giving mild heat with a MAP gas torch, then trying to drive the pins down. Got nowhere, but it's just the first day. If nothing moves I'll advance to the gas wrench to see how they like real heat. There is a puller tool I've seen but I think that is mostly for use on more cooperative pins. Stu

 

I have had success using the tool in the link below. It works for some people and not for others. I guess it depends on how badly the pin is rusted in there. I started by soaking like you have (for several days), then start with the shortest pin in the kit and as the door pin moves use the next longest and so forth until its out. Good luck. 1948-52 Ford F-100 Hinge Pin Puller

 

Removing the pins can be a task. Be careful using the BFH as you don't want to distort the door frame. I had to use a drill on a couple of mine if I remember right.

 

51 F1. I soaked the parts for several days and tried using the tool. I broke the tool and the supplier provided a replacement at no cost. Finally ended up drilling all 4 pins.

 

I just removed a hinge pin on my 51 F1. I soaked it for a week with PB Blaster.


Tried the big a-- hammer with no luck except mushrooming the bottom.


I finally pulled out my air hammer and pointed punch. I grounded the end of the punch to a flat 1/8" surface and went at the pin with success.


Scott in Texas

 

This sounds like my experience. The only difference is even the air hammer would not move the 2 on my drivers door. I succeeded by heating the pins first with my cutting torch (just heated, not making them red hot) and then the air hammer rather easily removed them.

 

If using heat, try thermal shocking to loosen rust: heat the top hinge leaf, immediately apply ice to the pin end until ice cold. Re-apply heat and reshock. Now try press or air hammer.

 

Didn't the CIA just get in trouble for doing that??

 

I pulled the pins from inside of the door and left the hinge on the frame of the truck. Was alot easier.

 

too soon??

 

Ahhh! The dreaded hinge pin removal. Like everyone else I tried progressively larger BFHs, various types of snake oil, air gun, various chisels, lots of cuss words, etc. Finally carefully cutting off the head and carefully drilling out the top of the pin where the serrations are worked best. Use new drill bits if possible. Mild heat would probably work too I just wasn't brave enough for that. I had visions of overheating the hinge and the door falling off at 50 mph.


Note the serrations at the top of the pin.

 

I drilled an 1/8" hole in the center of the pin in the top, more than 1/2" deep. They actually came out fairly easily with a hammer and a flat end punch from the bottom with only a few bruises.

 

OK, what it the best way to do it when you have a freshly painted truck?
I have one broken pin on my lower passenger side and am dreading the task. Might as well whack the side of the truck 12 times with a garden rake and set fire to the door now and save myself some trouble on how it's gonna look afterward....


.

 

I have been wondering about this myself. How about if you applied some dry ice to the top of the pin and maybe shrink it a bit, then tap it out?