Winter with the old diesel- help
#1
Winter with the old diesel- help
For a while my 94 7.3 idi was doing great this winter. I was so proud of her. I would be able to plug her in and start on the first try in 20 degree weather.
Now, however, it is staying around 30 degrees for a few days, and she isn't liking it.
It will turn the starter strong and fast all you want, but she just won't fire up, whether plugged in overnight or after sitting during school.
So what went wrong??
Do i need new glow plugs? Injectors?
Replace the block heater?
I have resorted to using starting fluid the last few times, which i know is awful for the engine, but I don't know what else to do. Help!
Now, however, it is staying around 30 degrees for a few days, and she isn't liking it.
It will turn the starter strong and fast all you want, but she just won't fire up, whether plugged in overnight or after sitting during school.
So what went wrong??
Do i need new glow plugs? Injectors?
Replace the block heater?
I have resorted to using starting fluid the last few times, which i know is awful for the engine, but I don't know what else to do. Help!
#2
#3
Check the following for info on testing your glow plug system:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...le-system.html
Also, if you use starting fluid make sure the glow plugs are disabled and cold, otherwise you risk destroying the engine.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...le-system.html
Also, if you use starting fluid make sure the glow plugs are disabled and cold, otherwise you risk destroying the engine.
#5
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,942
Received 3,090 Likes
on
2,154 Posts
#6
#7
irhunter is right. before you start throwing money and parts at it, 99% of hard starting is glow plug related. the fuel filter light comes on when the ip pulls on the filter with enough suction to activate the switch, this normally indicates a blocked filter, or bad lift pump, carefully check all functions of the glow system as it only takes one bad connection to ruin your morning.
Trending Topics
#9
Roy
#10
I would say that if you had to plug in at 20 degrees, you had issues with your glow plugs before any of this started. I could start up my old '85 in 10 degree weather after it had been sitting for a week in the snow, and it would crank up first try after glow plugging it for 15 seconds and no block heater at all. Granted, I had Motorcraft plugs and a brand new return line kit on it, but I still never had a problem with it starting up.
#11
The light could also mean that that wire is loose and sitting in a puddle of leaked diesel... <_<
Just so you know, when the engine is cold, you can safely use a /little/ bit of ether(1-2 second squirt), but let the GPs cool down for a few seconds before spraying and starting.
Also, everyone talks about engines becoming addicted to ether, but it's really the other way around -- engine wears to the point that you /need/ ether to start it.
I've had an engine that the PO could not get to run without ether, and used it for years that way. I fixed the GP system and timing, and it started up great without it(above 10F or so, at least). Recently had the engine rebuilt, and it was mechanically intact, but lots of bore/ring wear -- lotta miles on that engine.
Just so you know, when the engine is cold, you can safely use a /little/ bit of ether(1-2 second squirt), but let the GPs cool down for a few seconds before spraying and starting.
Also, everyone talks about engines becoming addicted to ether, but it's really the other way around -- engine wears to the point that you /need/ ether to start it.
I've had an engine that the PO could not get to run without ether, and used it for years that way. I fixed the GP system and timing, and it started up great without it(above 10F or so, at least). Recently had the engine rebuilt, and it was mechanically intact, but lots of bore/ring wear -- lotta miles on that engine.
#12
The light could also mean that that wire is loose and sitting in a puddle of leaked diesel... <_<
Just so you know, when the engine is cold, you can safely use a /little/ bit of ether(1-2 second squirt), but let the GPs cool down for a few seconds before spraying and starting.
Also, everyone talks about engines becoming addicted to ether, but it's really the other way around -- engine wears to the point that you /need/ ether to start it.
I've had an engine that the PO could not get to run without ether, and used it for years that way. I fixed the GP system and timing, and it started up great without it(above 10F or so, at least). Recently had the engine rebuilt, and it was mechanically intact, but lots of bore/ring wear -- lotta miles on that engine.
Just so you know, when the engine is cold, you can safely use a /little/ bit of ether(1-2 second squirt), but let the GPs cool down for a few seconds before spraying and starting.
Also, everyone talks about engines becoming addicted to ether, but it's really the other way around -- engine wears to the point that you /need/ ether to start it.
I've had an engine that the PO could not get to run without ether, and used it for years that way. I fixed the GP system and timing, and it started up great without it(above 10F or so, at least). Recently had the engine rebuilt, and it was mechanically intact, but lots of bore/ring wear -- lotta miles on that engine.
#13
First, I don't see how ether(or even oil, for that matter) can stick to a glow plug. The high temps will burn it off.
Glow plugs burn out over time, especially when the controller isn't working quite right... and after 25 years, they usually aren't(grounding issues, I think).
It's not air in the return system. The return system does not matter at all -- that's /after/ the IP, and mixes with leaked fuel coming /out/ of the injectors.
Air intrusion is when air gets into the /intake/ side of the system, usually at the filter head, and means that the pump needs to pump fuel all the way back up and into the IP.
This also usually manifests as an engine that starts right up, then dies.
Bad GPs are indeed common, along with marginal GP controller systems.
#14
Test the lift pump by checking the flow at the schrader valve on the filter header. should be 1/3 pint in 10 secs of cranking (if I remember that right). I'm pretty sure the valve is on the incoming flow, before the fuel goes through the filter. So if you have good flow there, change the filter (if it hasn't been changed in a while, might as well just change it anyways). If no fuel, or not much/no pressure, check the fuel system.
Have you checked the glow plug system yet?