IPR Screen question
#1
IPR Screen question
Hi guys.
I don't post much in here, but I do read a helluva lot, you all are a very knowledgeable bunch with the 6.0.
Last week I ran into my second major problem. First problem was head gaskets that had been failed for some time, got them replaced with OEM gaskets, bproof egr cooler, new oil cooler, head studs, and due to corrosion a new EBP sensor also.
I run motorcraft oil filters and currently have 5w/40 synthetic (castrol?) in the pan.
I also have a rebuilt FICM from Ed, and two diehard platinum batteries with less than one year on them.
So last week I was running to the home depot after work and as I was turning into the parking lot, out of nowhere my engine died. No warning, no sputter, no shake, just flat died and would not restart.
Adjusted my SGII to read ICP pressure, ICP volts, and IPR %. While cranking I was showing 0-5psi ICP pressure, obviously why it wouldn't start. I was also showing 15% IPR KOEO and it would shoot to 85% instantly upon cranking. Pretty clear I have a HPO issue, so I got it towed home, let it cool and tried again. This time I got about 60 psi ICP and still 85% IPR.
So, I tore it apart and got down to the IPR valve. This is what I found. The little piece of broken screen was jammed perfectly into the bore of the IPR valve, and flushed out really easy. I have a new screen in the mail right now, and it appears that this was the only cause of my engine shutdown. Now I'm aware that I ought to do the STC fitting while I'm this deep in the valley as well as the stand pipes and dummy plugs, but funds are a bit tight a the moment.
I guess I'm looking for someone knowledgeable to chime in here and say, yes replace the STC fitting while you're there, or no, the screen repair and a cleared IPR valve should be enough to keep me going.
Any and all input is appreciated! Thank you all in advance. -Mike
2006 F250 6.0
I don't post much in here, but I do read a helluva lot, you all are a very knowledgeable bunch with the 6.0.
Last week I ran into my second major problem. First problem was head gaskets that had been failed for some time, got them replaced with OEM gaskets, bproof egr cooler, new oil cooler, head studs, and due to corrosion a new EBP sensor also.
I run motorcraft oil filters and currently have 5w/40 synthetic (castrol?) in the pan.
I also have a rebuilt FICM from Ed, and two diehard platinum batteries with less than one year on them.
So last week I was running to the home depot after work and as I was turning into the parking lot, out of nowhere my engine died. No warning, no sputter, no shake, just flat died and would not restart.
Adjusted my SGII to read ICP pressure, ICP volts, and IPR %. While cranking I was showing 0-5psi ICP pressure, obviously why it wouldn't start. I was also showing 15% IPR KOEO and it would shoot to 85% instantly upon cranking. Pretty clear I have a HPO issue, so I got it towed home, let it cool and tried again. This time I got about 60 psi ICP and still 85% IPR.
So, I tore it apart and got down to the IPR valve. This is what I found. The little piece of broken screen was jammed perfectly into the bore of the IPR valve, and flushed out really easy. I have a new screen in the mail right now, and it appears that this was the only cause of my engine shutdown. Now I'm aware that I ought to do the STC fitting while I'm this deep in the valley as well as the stand pipes and dummy plugs, but funds are a bit tight a the moment.
I guess I'm looking for someone knowledgeable to chime in here and say, yes replace the STC fitting while you're there, or no, the screen repair and a cleared IPR valve should be enough to keep me going.
Any and all input is appreciated! Thank you all in advance. -Mike
2006 F250 6.0
#3
#4
Hi guys.
I don't post much in here, but I do read a helluva lot, you all are a very knowledgeable bunch with the 6.0.
Last week I ran into my second major problem. First problem was head gaskets that had been failed for some time, got them replaced with OEM gaskets, bproof egr cooler, new oil cooler, head studs, and due to corrosion a new EBP sensor also.
I run motorcraft oil filters and currently have 5w/40 synthetic (castrol?) in the pan.
I also have a rebuilt FICM from Ed, and two diehard platinum batteries with less than one year on them.
So last week I was running to the home depot after work and as I was turning into the parking lot, out of nowhere my engine died. No warning, no sputter, no shake, just flat died and would not restart.
Adjusted my SGII to read ICP pressure, ICP volts, and IPR %. While cranking I was showing 0-5psi ICP pressure, obviously why it wouldn't start. I was also showing 15% IPR KOEO and it would shoot to 85% instantly upon cranking. Pretty clear I have a HPO issue, so I got it towed home, let it cool and tried again. This time I got about 60 psi ICP and still 85% IPR.
So, I tore it apart and got down to the IPR valve. This is what I found. The little piece of broken screen was jammed perfectly into the bore of the IPR valve, and flushed out really easy. I have a new screen in the mail right now, and it appears that this was the only cause of my engine shutdown. Now I'm aware that I ought to do the STC fitting while I'm this deep in the valley as well as the stand pipes and dummy plugs, but funds are a bit tight a the moment.
I guess I'm looking for someone knowledgeable to chime in here and say, yes replace the STC fitting while you're there, or no, the screen repair and a cleared IPR valve should be enough to keep me going.
Any and all input is appreciated! Thank you all in advance. -Mike
2006 F250 6.0
I don't post much in here, but I do read a helluva lot, you all are a very knowledgeable bunch with the 6.0.
Last week I ran into my second major problem. First problem was head gaskets that had been failed for some time, got them replaced with OEM gaskets, bproof egr cooler, new oil cooler, head studs, and due to corrosion a new EBP sensor also.
I run motorcraft oil filters and currently have 5w/40 synthetic (castrol?) in the pan.
I also have a rebuilt FICM from Ed, and two diehard platinum batteries with less than one year on them.
So last week I was running to the home depot after work and as I was turning into the parking lot, out of nowhere my engine died. No warning, no sputter, no shake, just flat died and would not restart.
Adjusted my SGII to read ICP pressure, ICP volts, and IPR %. While cranking I was showing 0-5psi ICP pressure, obviously why it wouldn't start. I was also showing 15% IPR KOEO and it would shoot to 85% instantly upon cranking. Pretty clear I have a HPO issue, so I got it towed home, let it cool and tried again. This time I got about 60 psi ICP and still 85% IPR.
So, I tore it apart and got down to the IPR valve. This is what I found. The little piece of broken screen was jammed perfectly into the bore of the IPR valve, and flushed out really easy. I have a new screen in the mail right now, and it appears that this was the only cause of my engine shutdown. Now I'm aware that I ought to do the STC fitting while I'm this deep in the valley as well as the stand pipes and dummy plugs, but funds are a bit tight a the moment.
I guess I'm looking for someone knowledgeable to chime in here and say, yes replace the STC fitting while you're there, or no, the screen repair and a cleared IPR valve should be enough to keep me going.
Any and all input is appreciated! Thank you all in advance. -Mike
2006 F250 6.0
#5
Didn't realize the STC kit came with the IPR Screen... anyone in need of an IPR screen kit by itself? I'll ship it to you for $30! Otherwise I return it and after 15% restock fee I get 24.50 back.
Thanks for the input guys!
#7
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#8
#9
If you are talking about the HPOP cover bolts under the EGR cooler just loosen them and take them out with the cover, just be careful not to drop any in the open valley under the HPOP cover. I just used an open end wrench for those bolts. You will also have to loosen the up-pipe to EGR cooler clamp and slide it back on to the up-pipe to get to one bolt.
#10
#13
Videos were very helpful, had already viewed them many times...
What no one mentions in the vids is you HAVE to loosen the up pipes at the manifolds in order to get the cover out... I (stupidly) kept trying to make it fit getting myself frustrated...
As soon as I loosened the up pipes and pushed them back toward the firewall, EVERYTHING CAME OUT LIKE IT SHOULD!!!! Amazing huh?
Pump has now been updated with new STC fitting and has been reinstalled, and cover is over it... didn't drop a bolt!!! YAY!
Also, figured out that it's easier with the pipes loosened and the heat shield out to get a wrench on that bolt that is right near the egr clamp, come from the left side rather than try to fit it parallel underneath with the EGR cooler.
What no one mentions in the vids is you HAVE to loosen the up pipes at the manifolds in order to get the cover out... I (stupidly) kept trying to make it fit getting myself frustrated...
As soon as I loosened the up pipes and pushed them back toward the firewall, EVERYTHING CAME OUT LIKE IT SHOULD!!!! Amazing huh?
Pump has now been updated with new STC fitting and has been reinstalled, and cover is over it... didn't drop a bolt!!! YAY!
Also, figured out that it's easier with the pipes loosened and the heat shield out to get a wrench on that bolt that is right near the egr clamp, come from the left side rather than try to fit it parallel underneath with the EGR cooler.
#14
#15
Am running the correct filter and cap... don't know what was used for the first 100k miles, but since then I've only used motorcraft oil and racor (correct ones, ordered online) fuel filters.
This has been my first oil change with 5w-40 synthetic, about 1000 miles ago, might that cause some junk to get dislodged?
This has been my first oil change with 5w-40 synthetic, about 1000 miles ago, might that cause some junk to get dislodged?