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Obviously huh? Well it is exactly the same length as the new one I just bought. Yes the oil is dirty, and what is showing in the cap does appear to have some moisture in it. But if you see the oil itself which I guess I will take a picture of, is Black and no does not look like peanut butter. The Bypass is missing a little white plastic retainer that keeps the valve and spring in place. I can't find the retainer, but the rest is there and will function ok. I believe this thing has been sitting for some time with the green antifreeze in it, I'm sure it will survive a little longer. A flush is low down on the priority list.
Have you been using OEM oil fiters or aftermarket?
Yes you do need one. The little plastic rivet shaped thing with the spring below it pushes up on the hole inside at the top of the oil filter. If it is missing oil will freely flow through the whole assembly unfiltered.
Let me re-state...you don't need one!!! Not on this particular engine!
While you're at it, put on new running lights too. They will really look cool, sitting in the shop.
I figured him for a troll about page 2. I can't believe he suckedd us in for 5 pages.
Everyone likes to go to the zoo now and then to see
the critters.
We just happened to stay for a while this time and feed them.
But just in case he is real. Lets see if he comes back and
when he has found. He is starting to sound like someone that
picke up cars on the cheap and does just enough to get then
to run (saw dust in the gear box) then sells them to some poor
sucker that does not check on things. That might even be wrong
and he could just not have a clue. Take your pick.
I've been busy the last few days with normal life stuff. What's been posted since I've been in here last is rather discouraging. Hope you all have a good Christmas.
We normally are not mean spirited. Been a few trolls in the past
that have lead us on a merry chase just to turn around and bite.
So back to the truck.
What have you been able to check so far?
It would really help to have the valve covers off
to check movement and any compression numbers.
Anything else is busy work. Till you have the numbers
and are questing the compression not much you can
do. If there is a dead hole and you do get it to run you
can dilute the oil with that unburned fuel and end up
a runaway from over filling the crankcase with fuel and oil
Once a runaway starts there are very few ways to stop it.
Cut the air off, exhaust what it's using for fuel or let it blow up.
Cutting the air off might seem easy. But you have to risk getting
at the intake and you also have to be ready for it. CO2 into the
intake air horn would do the trick but how many have a CO2 supply
sitting handy. (Well I do for welding) Then there is getting near
a screaming diesel. Not something the faint at heart do often.
I would also send an oil sample in to get analyzed, because that oil filter was not an OEM one and there could easily be damage from poor (or no) oil filtration.
So I think this will be my last post here, but not without some kind of conclusion to the mystery in hopes that some other fool may find it helpful.
On a hunch based off of some of what Cheezit said on page 2, I began to think about a blown head gasket and coolant in the cylinders. Just because coolant got into the cylinders doesn't mean that it will eventually end up in the oil. Yes I know, I really don't know why I was so strong headed in thinking that. Well, what happens when coolant gets into the top end of an engine is a nice amount of surface rust on anything that will rust. Rings, cylinders, valves, and valve seats. I'm thinking this thing sat for a couple years after someone diagnosed that it had a blown head gasket or whatever. After a couple years sitting, yes, any engine in this situation will exhibit symptoms of no compression.
So based on this theory I decided to make up a cocktail of Marvel Mystery Oil and WD-40. I poured a little directly into the intake and gave her a crank for 20 to 30 seconds at a time. I didn't want to fry the starter so this process took a good amount of time and patience to let the starter cool down and batteries to charge back up. But eventually the bitch started! She blows some good amount of black smoke and sounds like she's missing but she runs. Now this doesn't mean for 100% that the head gaskets are blown, but is fairly certain whatever the problem is, the heads need to come off.
That being said, now that the truck will start and run, I'm thinking that if I had of done a compression test initially, it would have showed the compression to be very low. And if I do a compression test now, it will show a lot better. Think about that. No really... think about it.
And to you r2millers, go ahead and take the oil bypass out of your oil filter assembly since you think it is not needed. You are obviously smarter than the rest of us. Curious, what exactly do you believe that it is there for?
Bismic, yes the filter I put in was an OEM filter. I think you must be confused because when I took that picture, I pulled the oil filter about half way out of the housing. It really is not that long.
No doubt that has to be there. Won't have oil pressure without it.
Could certainly be that you had a HG problem and it rusted up, or it could be you have some other cylinder problem that the concoction you made up was compensating for.
Come back and let people know how it's doing after some time.
Rust on the walls and rings usually will go down hill over time.
If you have access to a crankcase back pressure test set that would
be an easy to watch for any increase in blow-by. That way you know
when it's time to start putting some cash away for an engine repair.
I do agree that sitting with coolant in the cylinders would cause
rusting and lead to problems.
12-15-2014, 06:35 AM
