lol - the cost of that "learning curve" can be pretty steep can't it.

 

Hey guys,,, this thread sure is hard to keep up with. Lol. I can say that the $6k job at my shop generally would be studs. There are almost always other issues that come up that bring the cost to the $6-7k range. If there are a couple weak injectors,,, or don't let me see a bad FICM,, or a leaking y pipe. Those are budget blowers!!! Happens quite often. After doing diag I tend to get in touch with the owner for more info. Which almost always reveals the reason for fairly new batteries in the truck. The old batteries were ran until they were not fit for the lawn mower,, and it plays havoc on the truck. And the budget. If this were my truck,, I would seriously consider spending about $2400. That would get the coolant flushed, egr system fixed (mainly because a trip under the turbo is gonna happen), do the hpop discharge fitting (stc), clean the turbo, stand pipes n dummy's, oil cooler preferably (testing will tell if its needed), hot tank the intake and all other parts that are removed (the ones that can be cooked), blue spring, and coolant n oil n all filters. Except air,,, that filter is extra,, lol.

I have a truck that is next in line that has a story behind it. I found out a shop replaced 2 hpop's trying to figure out this trucks issues. They put all injectors and a turbo,, not kidding,, the turbo is BRAND NEW SHINING!! I told him he could've brought me his first hpop and I would've swapped him for free,, I'd like to see a bad late hpop,, I'd even trade a good one for a bad one,, I'm thinking the bad ones I hear about people seeing are like Bigfoot. Heck I had one that was pumping STRAIGHT COOLANT. due to an oil cooler gasket that deteriorated and melted. I submerged it in oil while repairing the truck,, yup it fired right up n is still in service. My personal truck (06 350 CCLB) has 809k and still on the factory hpop,, (what will you guys say when I also tell you I'm on the original HFCM too!!!! I'm a lil stumped on that one. Lol. I'm off in left field but I thought id spend a bit chiming in. Thx Sean for the kind words n the heads up.

 

I've never heard of this one. I've heard " useless as ***** on a boar".....guess I need to watch the Animal Planet and Discovery channel more.

 

I've had many jobs run right past the $6k mark. Lots of these trucks are just driven until they are in desperate need of attention. That's why the bill gets so high. Just as a reference,, our labor is 2500 on a stud job. Parts are above n beyond that. Lets just hope no guides n seats need done in the heads. Which guides are almost always needed. At least a few of them. A good set of heads with 120k mi or above is also like Bigfoot. Of course it depends on the customers plans for the truck. A truck that is for sale is not a candidate for studs. $6k can be spent and it generally will only up the value about $3k. So I don't push the big jobs on every customer. If I hear them say they plan on driving it until the wheels fall off,, they need to consider studs. Mainly because the 2500 labor will include labor for all replacement of parts above the pistons. It's the best bang for your buck.

 

I agree with Bismic, buy STC kit, Dummy Plugs and Stand Pipes and find shop to install at reasonable price. Even if you prefer not to do the job yourself,I would still read what this entails so you will be knowledgeable talking to the shop.

 

I agree that the truck needs to co to a shop that knows
what they are looking at and not wanting to fill they bank account
while draining yours. Get a good diagnosis done then make
a game plan.

You need that diagnosis first.

If your willing we can talk you through the how to.
Your going to need some basic tools and something to
read live data. With that your going to be well informed
and less likely to get taking advantage of.

From read reading the symptoms I would start with
dummy plugs and stand pipes. The STC once it goes your
more or less dead in the water both cole and hot.

You can do the stand pipes and dummy plugs in your driveway.
You don't need much for tools. You do need to get something
like the Scanguage II or one of the bluetooth OBD2 adaptors
and/or smartphone app/laptop software. There are a good bunch
to pick from and it's a large thread all on it own.

If you have worked on a gas engine before then you can do this.
We will be there to ask questions.

Sean

 

Hopefully she chimes in here,, I had a nice talk with Lisa. She is the daughter that owns the truck. Might have a long distance repair going next week. After listening to the story,, might be top Inj orings. Air test will verify. She's going full bore with studs (but we are gonna verify the issue first). Have to watch next week on the live stream for it.

 

Cool.
They will find that your worth the drive.
With the number of miles you have put on a 6.0
and all the work that you have done yourself to keep
on the road. Like I told Mark today on the phone your about
the only other person I would trust working on mine.


Well I have to get. I just had the second of the three cats standing
on me and telling that it's time to eat. The other one was trying to
sit on the keyboard. Yep feeding time. I just got licked and then bit.


Sean

 

Whoo-Haw! We're a gonna fix Lisa's F-550 'redneck' style! Take her motor out and put it in another F-250 pick-em-up truck! Then add some "Back Off" mud flaps, and poke a hole in the muffler. That oughta fix it,,,,,,,,,,.


Don't shoot me! I'm just the messenger, doin' what a father is supposed to to. Make sure the kids are on the straight and narrow.


She and Anthony flapped their gums for over two hours last evening about the problem, truck, and what to do about it! (Two hours!? I'm impressed with Super Duty Service already)


Let me warn you,,,,,,,,. She is border line genius, and will argue with a fence post!


Thank you everyone, for your comments, suggestions, and such.

 

This is a fun thread and we're just gettin started!

 

Definitely not our first endeavor here huh??? Here we go again guys!!! I can't wait to see the truck. I guess it's a custom hauler. Just hope if its injector orings,,, it's not too many of them. I'm not on the injector oring replacement bandwagon. I've done them,, but it just isn't my opinion of a "shop setting" quality repair. I'd probably reconsider my opinion if the snap ring could be reliably removed and reinstalled. I know we can bend n tweak the oring n get it in without removing the snap ring,,, but that isn't the type of repair I want to do. I've had many people at the shop,, many members on here too and I've yet to see anyone get the snap ring out in a reliable, and duplicatable (is that a word???) way. I want to see a tool that gets it out n doesn't require little pics n screwdrivers n a magic touch. I even had Alliant Power show up one day n they started mentioning the kits,,,, so I grabbed an injector,, put it in the vise,, grabbed some pics n screwdrivers n a hammer,,, n told him to "show me". Missouri resident here,,, he couldn't do it. But he was just a salesman from Wisconsin. He kept referring me to call their tech line. Dang guys,,, sorry for the rant on Inj orings. Lol

 

Makes me feel better to know I'm not the only one that hates those snap rings. I thought I just didn't have the special touch.

 

That's funny,,, cause if its a magic touch,,,, I don't have it either. Lol

 

I found in one of Merlin's book the secret on how to get that silly thing out.
I have the PDF here somewhere but my computer filing system is
worse than my garage.

ANYWAY You need a small pin punch. You set the head on a support and hit
it in the very center of the ring with the punch with enough force so that it
bends the ends up. Them you just pull then out and on reinstall the new one
goes back in. To put the new ring in you get all the parts in place then a dab
of oil on the ring ends and start then in and use a small socket to get the center
section down into the grove. No I have not tried this yet and the place I found
this was not some youtube redneck.
That pin pinch has to be very small and hard so that it will bend the old ring's
ends up so that you can grab them.

I'll keep looking for the original document and post that when I find it.


Sean

 

Not exactly a "redneck youtube video", but here is a reference to the punch method:

http://alliantpower.com/sites/allian...01-08r1_en.pdf