looking for a 6.0 repair shop that knows what they are doing, around Morgantown, West Virginia, reasonable, that has loaner vehicles and will not substitute used parts for new.


The problem is with the high pressure oil pump, (so we've been told) it starts cold, when shut off warm, it takes half hour or so waiting for it to start again.


The EGR elimination kit can be installed since the warranty is expired.


Help, ideas, suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Sounds more like stc fitting or dummy plugs to me. You might want to get a second diagnosis on this before throwing money at it?

 

Would help to know the year.
The user page shows you have an older 1981 F250.

If it's the newer engine it does sound more like
Stand Pipes and/or Dummy Plugs. That is a quick
fix one. Pump not likely but STC maybe. I would still
do the quick and easy things first. Also an air test
to help pinpoint the leak.

With very basic tools a person can do the stand pipes and
dummy plugs at home.

One handy thing mark or take photos of what bolt on
the valve cover goes where.

Sean

 

That camera tip is a important tip, you will thank him later.

 

[QUOTE=Yahiko;14889139]Would help to know the year.
The user page shows you have an older 1981 F250.

If it's the newer engine it does sound more like
Stand Pipes and/or Dummy Plugs. That is a quick
fix one. Pump not likely but STC maybe.


Sorry. It's a '06 F-550 pick up. Belongs to my daughter. I don't know that much about diesels.


The old '81 you mentioned, has been shoved into the shed when gas first hit three bucks in '08. Thing only got 10 mpg, and was obnoxious as a forest fire when coming down the road. Been a goodin' though. Has 517K miles, heads have never been off! Old lead crank 400, with a 'granny' 4-speed!


I have NO idea what "stand pipes", "dummy plugs", or what "STC" stands for. That isn't one of those sexually transmitted diseases is it?


The local soup-'em-up diesel places, since I'm not that smart about 'em, tend to dollar one to death with horror stories of catastrophic failures, if every performance enhancement item they sell is not used.


Any local dealers really don't want to do anything major (other than minimum warranty work) on the diesels, because of the special training that is required.


Couple of 'mom-pop' shops that will work on diesels have been known to 'cut corners' by substituting used parts, charging for new.


The truck has served my daughter well, it runs good, has almost a quarter million miles, the only problems has been the EGR valve, and turbo housing, covered under warranty. Now that the warranty is up would like to have the elimination kit installed when the impossible starting problem is fixed.


Sits over night, inside outside makes no difference, fires right up. Any length of driving, short trip long trip, makes no difference. Unless the truck is to sit for more than a hour when it's shut off, it has to be left running, it absoulty refuses to start.


I was asking if any of you knowledgeable folks knew, could recommend, of a reputable shop, that knows what they are doing, around in the Morgantown WV, Pittsburgh PA areas that, could fix this thing right the first time.


Thanks for your time, Rick

 

The 6.0 has a high pressure oil pump (HPOP) inside the low pressure oil system. That HPOP is what powers the fuel injectors. When oil is cold, it is thicker. When it is hot, the pump can't overcome leaks enough because the oil is thin, and not enough pressure is built for the ECM to be happy and let the engine start. You don't see these leaks on the ground because the HPOP is internal to the low pressure oil system - it just leaks back to the oil pan. There are various points known to go out on certain year trucks, hence the model-year question.
The STC is short for a "snap to connect" fitting that is a known-leaker. The standpipes and dummy plugs are other parts in that high pressure oil system that are known-leakers that will cause the no-hot-start issue. It's also possible, though not as likely, that the HPOP is on its way out.
You're right, you need a knowledgeable 6.0 shop that can air test the high pressure oil system to find the leak and replace the problematic part, and not just throw parts and upgrades at it.

 

How does she feel about a road trip? The one shop that I know of that will
make sure it right is owned and operated by one or our own.
Super Duty Service is his username and here is a
link to his info Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: Super Duty Service
He has put the miles on his rig and knows how to work on them.
Here is his site >> Super Duty Service in Grain Valley, Mo
I know he is a bit more of a road trip but you can see what he thinks.
He might have someone closer to you that he can send you to.


Sean

 

Thanks for the info. Mo is a far piece.







Let me ask you guys this. What is the normal cost to buy and install a complete 6.0 "repair kit"?



And,,,, what does a brand new complete motor cost?



She said she found a place in Cincinnati, OH that will sell a 'kit' and labor for just under $6K! I thought I read someplace Ford dealers parts was selling complete new motors for $4K?







Thanks.

 

One other thought on this.
Have Anthony build the engine for you and
then you do the install. Ford reman can go a few
ways. Full Dress That is EVERYTHING, Long block You are still putting some of your parts back on,Short block You have to put a lot of your parts on.

The Full Dress would be the most. Last time I looked it was $13~14K plus
the installation. But it's everything from the pan up to the turbo.

On the Short block you will need some seal setting tools but I am not
sure about the Long block. But most likely you will also need them.

The Long block your going to have to swap some parts around and I don't
recall what they are asking for that one.

The Short block is just the block and internals things like crank cam
and pistons. I bet more work then you want to deal with.

For pricing give this place a call.
AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories

They have good pricing and have in the past been good to us here at FTE.

One thing to keep in mind is that most rebuilders when they hear that
your using this commercially will really screw you over on any warrantee
if you get one at all.

Like you said SDS is a LONG trip but what he will charge you for and
the fact that he makes it right could more than cover the cost to get to him.

I'll see if I can get someone to pop in and give some input on this and maybe
a shop they might know of.


Sean

 

Thank you!

I'm thinking, 6K to 'repair' a motor, is like ********* on a giraffe.


She is not 'needing' a new motor,,,,,,,. I thought I saw a sign or read a place card in a dealer, one could buy a complete motor for less than 6K. Why 'repair' a motor if a complete motor could be bought cheaper.


Could someone on here please 'educate' me in detail, what is involved (cost) with this 6.0 "fix kit"?!


I am not a 'diesel' person. So I don't know much about them, only what 'horror' stories I've read and been told.


If, these 6.0's left the factory with $6K worth of problems,,,,,, shouldn't there have been a recall or,,,,,,?

 

Just to out things in perspective, the discounted prices (material ONLY) are:
complete engine from Ford is $12.5k
long block is just under $10k
short block is just over $5k
Labor to install a short block would easily take you to $12k+ IMO.

As far as your problem goes, an STC fitting, dummy plugs and standpipes would cost you a couple hundred bucks in parts, you should be able to find shops to install them for around $700. Doesn't sound like recall status particularly - especially after 8 years. Maybe an EGR delete would add $1k, but that is your choice, not related to Ford's product.

So - why the questions on a new motor??

$6k to rebuild the engine is doing head studs as well as the things above, plus a few more. You didn't mention anything that sounds like you need head studs. That would be part of the $6k kit you mentioned as an option - just because that kind of rebuild should give you a pretty good assurance of 400k+ miles on your truck. Also if you are going to add power (tuner), then it would be wise.

As folks above have said, the shop that just seemed to guess at an HPOP sounds like they don't really know a 6.0L or they are trying to push up the repair bill. The 05 and up HPOP is generally pretty reliable.

Edit - If you would want head studs and the other "fixes", a more reasonable price would be $4-5k IMO. A cracked head ($1k for a remanned head) would drive that price to the high side or a little over, but you probably don't have a cracked head.

 

Wow, we went went from fixing a $200 high pressure oil leak to replacing the whole engine.

Ford - 03-07 Super Duty 6.0L - HPOP & Related - Riffraff Diesel Performance

 

Guess you would need to read the fine print on that 6K complete motor.

2006 F350 4X4

 

For sure. Don't understand why he went to talking about a $6k kit, recalls, and giraffes - lol

seriously though - many of those folks advertising those "kits" are trying to take advantage of the 6.0L reputation IMO.
The only other reasons for that kind of repair/upgrade cost would be (again IMO):
1. the engine was abused
2. you want way more horsepower, or
3. you have an engine w/ well over 300k miles and you want to make it to well over 500k miles.

 

He was thinking that's pretty high--LMAO.