Hey guys I'm wondering if you guys can give me some intel on why my truck is cutting off in the mornings after the initial start?? It high idles and dies, after 3 starts it stays running. It started doing this about 2 months ago and can't figure it out. You guys have solved ALL MY OTHER PROBLEMS in the past with your fountains of intellect and I'm truly thankfull!!
Thank you again for reading and any help!! SEMPER FI 2/3

 

I will venture to guess that the choke needs a "seasonal" adjustment. Perhaps it is too rich upon initial start and after the 3rd attempt, enough time has elapsed that the electrically heated choke has opened enough to run.


When this first began [~2 months ago], did you begin to experience the first cool/cold weather in Virginia?

 

if its an EFI engine get a code reader and perform a KOEO test and a KOER test and see if there are any codes. You can also try cleaning the idle air bypass, and check the fuel pressure at the rail by using a pressure guage.

 

That is exactly what my 5.0 EFI did and cleaning the IAC (idle air control) carefully according to directions, helped it a lot. Replacing the IAC is even better.

 

AHHH yes it is getting cold here, I blasted the IAC hole and the intake where my two air cleaner hoses connect and it made a good difference in idle. It looked like thin motor oil running out, I'm going to have to get more carb cleaner!! It has 112000 actual on the truck and I'm 46 but drive around like I'm 90 is what my wife says!! I've been honked at!! I did add headers when I needed an exhaust mani replacement ( wish I hadn't ) I don't know if that has anything to do with the build up or not. I put steel black Hookers on ( I laugh every time ) they were more cost efficient for my monthly Gov income. You guys were RIGHT AGAIN I believe! I truly thank you for your assistance and knowledge without costing me 60 bucks an hour!!
Thank you SEMPER FI 2/3

 

Also my ignition timing is about 10 deg BTC, it's been messed with by others and not sure where it should be.

 

Check your TPS, mine was a tiny bit out of range and it was worse in the winter. Exact symptoms. Do you hear a clicking noise? Mine would flutter the EGR relay because the ECM though it was part throttle. Hopefully no one has "screwed" with the idle screw. I fought a bad aftermarket unit for several months.

 

that isn't a idle adjustment screw its a positive throttle stop. The IAC controls the idle speed and there is a procedure to set it properly. turning that will cause ecm to go out of parameters leading to a multitude of problems.

 

I know that, but ask the average joe, and they will identify it as an idle adjustment, though there is a procedure for setting base idle and TPS voltage with the stop.

 

here is a picture from my archives on how to set the idle speed.sorry i posted them out of order.

 

Ok thank you guys for the Intel, my Truck is running great after all the cleaning. It's still shutting off in the mornings but running slot better. It was about 31 here this morning and it was a little worse than before. I've had the Truck for about 4 years and It didn't do it when I first got it. I also unplugged the IAC connector and nothing happened to the idle. It also has a hiccup sometimes while I'm driving, literally like the Truck hiccups while I'm giving it gas. I think I'm going to have to replace something. I don't have a code reader to check it. Thank you guys again helping!! I don't like asking anyone for help and I only trust 2 people.
SEMPER Fi. 2/3

 

You don't need a code reader to pull codes (but it can make it easier) you can use a test light or analog voltmeter; here's how:

Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test

Given that you have a computer-controlled engine, doesn't it make sense to ask the computer how it feels about things?

 

if you unplugged the iac and nothing changed, then you most likely have a vacuum leak,or the stop is misadjusted holding the throttle plates open. check your pcv valve then the hose it attaches to, the engine warmed up should have 13 to 15 solid inches of vacuum at curb idle.Tighten up the rocker covers ect. If the iac is functioning correctly when you unplug it the engine should stall.

 

In my experience:

1) If you have codes pointing at the IAC (especially KOER codes);
2) If you unplug it with the engine running and nothing changes.

Then the problem is usually in the IAC itself, but that's assuming there are no lower-numbered codes present, there isn't any mechanical binding holding things up, the wiring is in good shape, etc. - IOW generally un-hacked and unmolested.

A misbehaving TPS can contribute to the problems, too.

IMO the easiest thing to do is let the computer help you figure it out.

 

Thanks guys! I checked the IAC with my Fluke and it's showing exactly 10ohms but a closed circuit when I checked continuity, I don't know if that's right or not, I picked up a cheap code reader that plugs in to the 2 ports right behind the battery. It just has blinking lights for the numbers so you can write them down and diagnose. It seems fairly easy to use and I'm heading out now to try it. I will post the code numbers and also try to find my Hanes manual and self diagnose, you guys are great people and I hate bugging you with these things. Thank you guys again for the intel!!
SEMPER FI. 2/3