Inner fender panel
#16
#18
#19
I'd suggest reading my post here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1955-f250.html on forming a building plan. Even tho it was meant for someone who already has a project truck started, it is even better to start the planning before buying the truck. That way you have a much better direction and and a clear idea of what to look for and where to spend your money. Example: if you are planning to replace the engine with a modern V8, and the driver(s) only drive automatics, there is no reason to be concerned with what drivetrain is in the truck (or if there is one in it at all) or to pay a premium for a running OEM flathead 6 engine and 3 speed on the column standard transmission, unless you know someone who would pay you for what you take out, or if the truck is in drivable condition and you plan on driving it for a while.
The sheet metal is the most expensive and difficult part to repair, so buy the very best you can afford. It's false economy to think it is cost efficient to spend less for rough sheet metal.
Also try to find as complete and pristine example as you can, the small parts:, instruments, trim, window operators, glass, etc can nickle and dime you to death to locate and replace.
Finally be 100% sure any truck you consider has all the proper/transferable ownership paper work that matches the actual truck, or after spending a lot of time and money you could have your project confiscated/destroyed, you facing vehicle theft or illegal laundering, or with a truck that cannot be resold or licensed, an expensive lawn ornament. Check thoroughly with your state DMV what is needed and the procedures to follow. DON'T let anyone tell you you can get around the rules, or it doesn't matter, or assume that the procedure in one state is the same in another or hasn't changed of late. This is especially important if the vehicle is purchased in another state.
The sheet metal is the most expensive and difficult part to repair, so buy the very best you can afford. It's false economy to think it is cost efficient to spend less for rough sheet metal.
Also try to find as complete and pristine example as you can, the small parts:, instruments, trim, window operators, glass, etc can nickle and dime you to death to locate and replace.
Finally be 100% sure any truck you consider has all the proper/transferable ownership paper work that matches the actual truck, or after spending a lot of time and money you could have your project confiscated/destroyed, you facing vehicle theft or illegal laundering, or with a truck that cannot be resold or licensed, an expensive lawn ornament. Check thoroughly with your state DMV what is needed and the procedures to follow. DON'T let anyone tell you you can get around the rules, or it doesn't matter, or assume that the procedure in one state is the same in another or hasn't changed of late. This is especially important if the vehicle is purchased in another state.
#20
Thanks for the offer, but I will keep looking for a 48,49,50 f1. I use to own a 48 in the early 80's. I have been retired now for 2 years and finally convinced my wife I need a old truck. I only drive my 94 f150 about 2,000 miles a year, hauling garbage, lumber, going to coffee shop, etc. I have a good idea of what I want to do, and I have the experience to do all the work myself. I'm not in a rush to purchase, I may even wait until spring before traveling across the pass to eastern Washington to look at anything that comes available.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DocMSavage
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
06-23-2018 07:56 PM
wwhite
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
9
08-29-2014 10:32 AM
jimprowse
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
05-18-2011 05:18 PM
reamer
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
09-13-2007 11:56 AM
reamer
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
05-11-2006 06:25 PM