That should be conclusive. But remember that these engines are computer-driven. I would trust the numbers over what I feel during the test drive. Compare the ICP and duty cycle of the current sensor with the swapped one.

 

Swap the ICP sensor. Tell your cousin you need to test drive it that way for a week to be sure. Then let him deal with the bad sensor.

I get the part about wanting to check with gauges and all the computer stuff, but it's still an engine, and if you pay attention, the seat of the pants meter can often tell you plenty. My money is on a bad ICP sensor that a simple unplug it test can diagnose.

But I'm old school. I remember setting points by just looking at them and setting timing by just listening to the engine. Not perfect, but close enough in a pinch.

Of course it's easy for me to spend your money telling you which part is bad. Double checking some random guy like me from the internet is always a good idea.

 

Put in the new sensor and the numbers did not change. What would be the next step?

 

ICP #'s didn't change or IPR #'s didn't change?


Next step would be to check ICP with a mechanical gauge if you think your problem is oil related.


This truck doesn't have a 10k mod or something does it?

 

Is the purpose of the manual gauge test to determine if the scanner is giving an erroneous reading? I've tested the truck with two different scanners and they both read the exact same. Any possibility I got a bad sensor from the auto parts store?

 

the mechanical gauge is to check the sensor.

 

Where could I get one of these gauges?

Any idea what it would be if it is not the sensor?

 

All you need is a pressure gauge capable of at least 3000 psi. You can get them on ebay or at your local plumbing supply.

Then you need to adapt whatever end is on the gauge (Probably 1/4" NPT) to #5 ORB. Again, ebay or your local plumbing supply.

I'm still not convinced there's a problem at all. If the ICP is normal, then who cares if the duty cycle is low? That just means that your PCM is getting the oil pressure that it desires with less work from the IPR.

 

There may not be an oil problem. But there is definitely a problem accelerating and the IPR% was the only thing out of range. I am unable to accelerate up hill and when I step on the gas pedal, it takes its time until around 2500 rpms, at which point it pulls strong. The only time it ran strong at low rpms was when I unplugged the ICP sensor.

 

You could have a biased sensor, corroded or partially shorted wire, or a botched 10k mod resulting in a false ICP reading.


The fact that unplugging the sensor made the truck run noticeably better tells me that something is up with the sensor of wiring.

 

I noticed that my ebp reading was not moving past 18 while accelerating. I unscrewed the sensor and no air was coming out of the tube. I had checked it over the summer and it was open but I figured I should remove it to check for a hole or crack. I get under the truck to unscrew the tube from the manifold and discover that the tube was never screwed back into the manifold when the mechanic replaced the manifolds and up pipes a month ago. The tube was just dangling down there. I screwed it back in and ebp is now where it should be at wot as well as ipr duty cycle% at wot. Truck is running much better. Thank you to everyone who replied. I appreciate the help.

 

That is pretty unbelievable if you ask me. I hate other people touching my truck for this very reason.

 

Good to here you figured something out with it. Strange thy unplugging the icp helped.

 

Yeah, especially since I always thought the EBP had a minimal influence on how the pcm controls fueling.

 

He basically had a hole in the exhaust, loosing boost.