300-i6 with auto trans?
#17
But at least I am making some efforts to move forward.
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#20
I have seen numerous references to using the 240 heads on a 300. Not sure what it gets me. One reason I am sticking with the straight six option on my truck is my exhaust. It's nearly brand new, so a straight six would keep things easier for me.
Still, I have a very long ways to go:
gotta find a steering column;
find the throttle kick down linkage for the tranny;
the linkage between the shifter and the tranny;
I want power steering, so have to find the stuff to add that feature to this truck.
Still, I have a very long ways to go:
gotta find a steering column;
find the throttle kick down linkage for the tranny;
the linkage between the shifter and the tranny;
I want power steering, so have to find the stuff to add that feature to this truck.
#21
The 240 head has a 68cc combustion chamber and the 300 head has a 76cc combustion chamber, with your variables being whether or not the valves are flat or dished, but it gives you slightly higher compression for a bit more peppiness. It is otherwise identical and your entire valvetrain will swap over.
#22
I see a lot of people bash the 240. But they are a great engine. And because of the their shorter stroke their crank is actually stronger then the 300's. And they can also safely rev higher then a 300.
A modified 240 does quite well. And in a fairly light truck like a F100 short box 2wd a 240 is a great choice. Add an aftermarket intake with a 2V or 4V carb, a pair of 300 EFI exhaust manifolds ( basically cast iron shorty headers ) and a aftermarket cam and you end up with a very peppy engine.
I'm actually considering swapping in a 240 in place of the 300 in 54 F100 4x4 project.
But if your plan is to rebuild the engine and you really want a 300 do like AbandonedBronco mentioned and just convert your 240 to a 300. Just swap in a 300 rotating assembly ( crankshaft, harmonic balancer, connecting rods and pistons ) and bingo you've got a 300.
Northern auto parts sell reman'd crankshafts. 1965-1997 Ford 300cid, 4.9L | Northern Auto Parts
So does Rockauto.com and probably just about any auto parts store.
If you were close to my area I'd trade you the 300 parts for your 240 parts. I've got a soft spot for 240's. I've got my own little hoard of 240/300 parts.
A modified 240 does quite well. And in a fairly light truck like a F100 short box 2wd a 240 is a great choice. Add an aftermarket intake with a 2V or 4V carb, a pair of 300 EFI exhaust manifolds ( basically cast iron shorty headers ) and a aftermarket cam and you end up with a very peppy engine.
I'm actually considering swapping in a 240 in place of the 300 in 54 F100 4x4 project.
But if your plan is to rebuild the engine and you really want a 300 do like AbandonedBronco mentioned and just convert your 240 to a 300. Just swap in a 300 rotating assembly ( crankshaft, harmonic balancer, connecting rods and pistons ) and bingo you've got a 300.
Northern auto parts sell reman'd crankshafts. 1965-1997 Ford 300cid, 4.9L | Northern Auto Parts
So does Rockauto.com and probably just about any auto parts store.
If you were close to my area I'd trade you the 300 parts for your 240 parts. I've got a soft spot for 240's. I've got my own little hoard of 240/300 parts.
#23
I have a 240 in my 69 lwb as a daily driver and pleased as heck with it. Just the difference between good vs. bad running.
I have a quote from Carolina engine manufacturing to rebuild it for about $1100 plus $795 in shipping charges. Ouch on the shipping. That does not include a lot of extra's. $250 here, $250 there and we get closer to where I would want to be.
I have a quote from Carolina engine manufacturing to rebuild it for about $1100 plus $795 in shipping charges. Ouch on the shipping. That does not include a lot of extra's. $250 here, $250 there and we get closer to where I would want to be.
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#28
And of course, a little extra mpg never hurt. But, still, I've gotten 22 out of mine.
#29
well what do you think of $2k rebuild
As stated previously, there is company that will pick up my engine, rebuild it and send it back to me for about $2k.
A long block would likely cost me $1300 or so. I don't have the skills nor tools to do a proper rebuild. Locally, the mechanics don't have any interest. I have one more potential source in san Antonio called City something or another recommended to me by the guy I bought my C4 transmission from today. Will check with them. But I am thinking early next year I will be sending my engine off for a rebuild.
Another positive note was that I have located a steering column out of a 69 f100 that was on a truck with auto and power steering. More stuff falling into place.
A long block would likely cost me $1300 or so. I don't have the skills nor tools to do a proper rebuild. Locally, the mechanics don't have any interest. I have one more potential source in san Antonio called City something or another recommended to me by the guy I bought my C4 transmission from today. Will check with them. But I am thinking early next year I will be sending my engine off for a rebuild.
Another positive note was that I have located a steering column out of a 69 f100 that was on a truck with auto and power steering. More stuff falling into place.
#30
The San Antonio company doing rebuilds that was recommended is called City Motor Supply (they are in SA and Dallas). I talked to them today and they say they would rebuild my engine (taking it to a 300) for $1230. I would just have to remove it, strip it and deliver it to their shop.
Seems like this might be a pretty good option.
Would give me a chance to clean up the remainder of the engine parts. I did get an engine stand and engine lift this weekend at HF (yeah, cheap, but should do this job).
Actually, sounds kind of "fun" tearing down the engine and hoping I can get it back together again. Would this be better than just buying a long block? I don't know.
Seems like this might be a pretty good option.
Would give me a chance to clean up the remainder of the engine parts. I did get an engine stand and engine lift this weekend at HF (yeah, cheap, but should do this job).
Actually, sounds kind of "fun" tearing down the engine and hoping I can get it back together again. Would this be better than just buying a long block? I don't know.