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Wanting to buy warn hubs

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Old 12-05-2014, 02:39 PM
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Wanting to buy warn hubs

My truck has the stock hubs. "Auto or lock". Which the auto setting doesn't work anyways because I have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. Anyways my Question is is it worth it ? And is there anything special that I have to do to convert ? Like delete the vacuum lines somehow or anything.?! As I mentioned above the auto setting doesn't work doesn't work because of a vacuum leak I believe ( when I switch to 4wd the defroster comes on after a couple seconds )
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 02:51 PM
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Change the lines. That's usually what it is. Check the ones at the wheels. They usually crack and break off. I had the one by the passenger battery come a part also.
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 03:00 PM
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Could also be the seals at the hubs.
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 05:11 PM
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Back to the question.


I forewent the woes of these and put Milemarker premiums on mine.


Got rid of the vac hub deal and have had no problems ever since.




Before it was chase this and chase that for heat and defrost issues.


Warns are great and so are the milemarkers.


Just get rid of the lines all the way to the reservoir/pump.


Tugly has a great diagram in his signature.




Denny
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 05:37 PM
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Go with the premium ones all metal construction
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 06:02 PM
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x2 on seals in the hub
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 07:49 PM
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If you get the warn, they have 2 grades. Get the the better one.
 
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:17 PM
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So what can I cap the hubs with when I delete the vacuum tube ? Like shrink wrap or ?? Also does the vacuum line Just connect each hub to each other or does it T off somewhere ? All I can see is that it connects both hubs
 
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Old 12-06-2014, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DanielT28
So what can I cap the hubs with when I delete the vacuum tube ? Like shrink wrap or ?? Also does the vacuum line Just connect each hub to each other or does it T off somewhere ? All I can see is that it connects both hubs
I just put a tight fitting machine screw in a 2" piece of vacuum line to cap the hubs. Then follow the vacuum line to the pump, and plug it off there.
 
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Old 12-06-2014, 06:08 PM
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Oh. I couldn't find the line running to the vacuum pump. Or where the vacuum pump is at on in. On my 97 it's easy. But this one I wasn't able to see it
 
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Old 12-06-2014, 06:22 PM
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Vacuum pump is behind passenger side battery.
 
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:06 PM
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But just plug the lines to the wheels or you won't have anything.
 
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:09 PM
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Go with the Superwinch, they ate cheaper, and don't have that stupid spring.
 
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:23 PM
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I just put the hubs in , didn't worry about the lines.
They weren't working anyway.
 
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Old 12-06-2014, 09:45 PM
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Good idea to isolate the vacuum system when going to manual hubs. The pic below shows how I rerouted the vacuum lines when I went with Mile Markers and no longer needed vacuum. Remove the 4WD vacuum Tee from the reservoir, that's the blue cap in the foreground. In the right background the white cap zip tied next to the fan motor is where I disconnected the HVAC line. Run that HVAC line straight down the fender and plug it in where you removed the 4WD line, at the blue cap. Tight fit, needed some spit. Still need the vacuum to operate the HVAC controls and blend doors ya know. I like this method since it's reversible and going back to ESOF is no problem. A vacuum cap at the nipple on the hub is fine if you want to remove those rubber hoses. Those hoses kinda fall apart anyway.
 
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