1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

66 grill removal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 12-02-2014, 11:10 AM
mydads1966's Avatar
mydads1966
mydads1966 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring Valley Ca
Posts: 34
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
66 grill removal

I'm going to remove the front grill so I can paint the radiator core support. Does the part just above the grill that has the FORD letters and houses the hood latch have to come off? What is the best way to get the grill off?


Also, What suggested color should the core support be? Same as the grill or something else? I'm going to paint the truck Pearl white eventually.
 
  #2  
Old 12-02-2014, 11:54 AM
resonateur's Avatar
resonateur
resonateur is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 0
Received 115 Likes on 84 Posts
Others here can probably give you a play-by-play, but yes, remove the upper panel. In order to avoid damaging the grill I would also remove it with the lower valance/rock guard attached. Some of those old J-nuts can be really hard to remove and you risk breaking the tabs on the grille. On my old truck, the radiator support was black.
 
  #3  
Old 12-02-2014, 12:10 PM
arctic y block's Avatar
arctic y block
arctic y block is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Island Southeast Alaska
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Yes everything behind the grille should be black.
I also am wanting to pull my grille to sell it.
But I know the bolts will spin and brake off the
ears. Leaving the splash guard on is a good call.
Once it is off than one can have much better access
to these stubborn rusty bolts. Thanks Res.
 
  #4  
Old 12-02-2014, 02:05 PM
resonateur's Avatar
resonateur
resonateur is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 0
Received 115 Likes on 84 Posts
Yeah, buddy. I'm still learning...anything that doesn't twist easy or spins without removing...don't waste your time, just get the grinder out and cut the head or tail off. A good soaking in liquid wrench or the like and wire brushing the exposed threads on the tail save a lot of time as well.
 
  #5  
Old 12-02-2014, 04:11 PM
mydads1966's Avatar
mydads1966
mydads1966 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring Valley Ca
Posts: 34
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for info. I'll be pulling mine off soon, but not in the next day or two since we are going to get something we haven't seen in a while (rain)
 
  #6  
Old 12-02-2014, 04:15 PM
The Masked Rider's Avatar
The Masked Rider
The Masked Rider is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,670
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
There has been many debates on this website about what color the rad supports were when they came from the factory.
"Were they all black or color of body"
I've heard good argument for both sides. SO,,, who knows for sure? I would actually like to know myself. I have seen many over the years, that were both ways and the OPs swear, that's the way they came. I thought for sure that Bill (ND) would have chimed in on that, the last time it came up.
I would really like to know. SOOO?
 
  #7  
Old 12-02-2014, 04:25 PM
TA455HO's Avatar
TA455HO
TA455HO is online now
Lead Driver
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 8,662
Received 522 Likes on 415 Posts
Originally Posted by The Masked Rider
There has been many debates on this website about what color the rad supports were when they came from the factory.
"Were they all black or color of body"
I've heard good argument for both sides. SO,,, who knows for sure? I would actually like to know myself. I have seen many over the years, that were both ways and the OPs swear, that's the way they came. I thought for sure that Bill (ND) would have chimed in on that, the last time it came up.
I would really like to know. SOOO?


Not sure what you are doubting. Core supports were always black 1961-1966. See if this link works for you. Post #152 from TripleFrame.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14214217




.
 
  #8  
Old 12-02-2014, 08:31 PM
svolpone's Avatar
svolpone
svolpone is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Philly Suburbs, PA
Posts: 5,967
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
um, what color do you want them? that's all that matters. (sorry, i'm drunk again).
 
  #9  
Old 12-02-2014, 09:10 PM
skidoorulz's Avatar
skidoorulz
skidoorulz is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Billings Montana
Posts: 1,271
Received 103 Likes on 70 Posts
Core supports and inner fenders were black. Firewall was body color if you want to make it look original. Stone deflector below the grill on a CC was a silver/argent color. Not sure on the non CC trucks. Probably body color if it had a white grill and white bumper
 
  #10  
Old 12-02-2014, 09:27 PM
schoo's Avatar
schoo
schoo is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: placer county usa?
Posts: 4,332
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Originally Posted by The Masked Rider
There has been many debates on this website about what color the rad supports were when they came from the factory.
"Were they all black or color of body"
I've heard good argument for both sides. SO,,, who knows for sure? I would actually like to know myself. I have seen many over the years, that were both ways and the OPs swear, that's the way they came. I thought for sure that Bill (ND) would have chimed in on that, the last time it came up.
I would really like to know. SOOO?
hi fritz how is going
here is a pic rad support painted body color and one painted black


 
  #11  
Old 12-02-2014, 09:32 PM
schoo's Avatar
schoo
schoo is offline
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: placer county usa?
Posts: 4,332
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
here is the other pic I like this one
 
  #12  
Old 12-03-2014, 11:36 AM
daveengelson's Avatar
daveengelson
daveengelson is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Boulder Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,292
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
IMO, the major task of removing the grille are the U and J nuts that attach the upper and lower valance to the grille and can be difficult; primarily because they are difficult to get to and usually find these nuts are rusted and tend to spin. I found removing the bumper, then take the front clip as an entire unit; upper/lower valance, grille support bracket ( at the top of the rad. support there is an access hole to remove the bolts that secure the grille bracket to the support), grille, then the bolts that secure the grille to the fenders, and there are couple castle nuts that secure the grille support bracket to the lower splash pan, plus couple other nuts and bolts.
 
  #13  
Old 12-03-2014, 02:13 PM
TxStang2010's Avatar
TxStang2010
TxStang2010 is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 376
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
when you go back up with it , use I small amount of anti-seize on each grill bolt
 
  #14  
Old 12-03-2014, 02:22 PM
daveengelson's Avatar
daveengelson
daveengelson is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Boulder Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,292
Received 14 Likes on 14 Posts
Originally Posted by TxStang2010
when you go back up with it , use I small amount of anti-seize on each grill bolt
Suggest spraying a dab of penetrating oil day, or couple hours before tackling the job.
 
  #15  
Old 12-06-2014, 04:07 PM
mydads1966's Avatar
mydads1966
mydads1966 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Spring Valley Ca
Posts: 34
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I got the grille off and only broke one bolt. I would like to replace all bolts and the clips the bolts screw into. Does anyone know what the best source for these bolts and clips are? I looked in Dennis Carpenters and LMC but didn't see anything. Thanks for the tips on removal it was a tremendous help.
 


Quick Reply: 66 grill removal



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:20 PM.