1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Run's fine @ ideal but not under power

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  #16  
Old 12-03-2014, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jrox1596
Once the Fuel pump is in the block there is no way the Tappit can fall in to the motor right. It's just if ur taking it out and the pump would come out and the Tappit stayed in the block then it would have a chance of felling in the motor. All this talk of it falling in has got me nerves when I put it back in it went right in. I guess I could loosen the two bolts that holds the pump turn the motor by hand and if it pushes the pump up, I would know that the Tappit is in the pump and riding on the cam.
You should be good. If the tappet didn't fall out while you were holding the pump in your hand it probably stayed in the pump.
 
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Old 12-03-2014, 11:58 PM
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Thanks, its just those things you can't see makes me start doubting myself. I think its ok also. I'm still waiting on the pedestal from the machine shop so I can put the turbo in. I deleted the EBV it was blowing oil all over the motor and I live in southeast Texas it don't get that cold here. Plus it has a heater I can plug in at night to keep the block warm.
 
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:09 AM
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I'll be glad when I get back together and see if I've corrected the problem. I need to get a code reader. I think '95 is OBD 1 readers. And can some one tell me the location on a '95 f350 the reader plugs into. I know I'm probably asking some dumb questions but I just got the truck a few weeks ago and this is my first diesel. So help is very much appreciated.
 
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:15 AM
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Under the dash just to the right of the ash tray. There are only a few scanners that will communicate with our trucks. Get AE for a lap top. best bang for your buck.
 
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:20 AM
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  #21  
Old 12-04-2014, 12:23 AM
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Thanks I went out and looked there she be. Was I right on OBD 1 reader for '95 f350. And dose anyone recommend a code reader. That's not to complicated.
 
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:26 AM
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<p>Thank Rebilld for the link to a code reader.</p>
 
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Old 12-04-2014, 12:28 AM
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You need a laptop computer to use it, but it is a good tool
 
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Old 12-04-2014, 05:22 AM
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Looks like I might get that as well, and one for my Audi too. Pretty good price for what it does! What is the hardware Id? I didn't see an option for what to put in there!
 
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Old 12-19-2014, 03:03 PM
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If you pulled the turbo then I would replace those rear O rings on the back fuel ports.
Parker 60VLV-4 Viton Sleeve (1/4 inch)

I'm hoping my replacement goes smoothly. Waiting on all my parts but hopefully It will get done this weekend. I wish I had the time and money to do the up pipes and exhaust delete to mine.
 
  #26  
Old 12-19-2014, 11:48 PM
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seals on fuel line

<p>Yes, I've been replacing all rings an gasits and sleeves with new parts. I'm still waiting on my turbo pedestal hopefully he'll have it finished next week. I put the rebuilt fuel bowl and fuel lift pump back in just have the turbo left to put in.</p>
 
  #27  
Old 01-07-2015, 11:55 PM
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No Start

Well I got fuel bowl rebuilt and put in got the fuel pump and fuel lines all put in and hooked up. Got my turbo all back in and hook up. Charged battery's hook them up. Turned the key and the motor turns and turns but will not even try to start. I was told by a friend that its air locked. and to keep turning it over for about 20sec. at a time don't want to screw up starter. I got a fuel pressure tester today should it be around 50-60 psi
Also I'm going to check the hpop I've heard if it's low this can keep truck from starting. I've head do not use starter fluid is this true. And if so is there and easier way to get the air out of the line. Also what should the oil pressure be at start up and running. Thanks for any input.
 
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Old 01-08-2015, 12:27 AM
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No Start

This has been a bad four weeks my grandmother was in the hospital and had part of her foot cut off. So been taking care of her. Ok back to truck put the rebuilt fuel bowl back in fuel pump back in all fuel lines hooked up. Got my turbo pedistel back and put in and all hoses hooked up. Charged the battery's and put the key in turned and the motor just turned over and over but it didn't even try to start. A friend said its probably air locked. He said to just keep cranking on it for 20sec. at a time don't want to burn up the starter. He said do not use starter fluid it can f'up ur motor. I got a fuel pressure gauge is it suppose to be 50-60psi. And what should the oil pressure be at start up and while running. Also I'm going to check the hpop I've heard if its low that can keep it from starting and it been setting over a month. If any one has any input feel free I need them. Thanks.
 
  #29  
Old 01-08-2015, 03:17 AM
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First of all, sorry to hear bout your Grandmother. Needing part of your foot cut off is never good.

Is the tach bouncing when you are cranking? How many long cranks have you done so far? And don't use starter fluid, unless you want a giant flame come out your turbo and run the risk of hyrdo-locking your engine.

Double check your fuses, sensor connections. Are you getting any codes?
 
  #30  
Old 01-08-2015, 06:32 PM
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No start

Yes, the RPM gauge is bouncing a little. I checked the hpop has oil. The fuel pressure is only getting up to 40 psi. But when its only cranking I don't know what it should be when only the battery is turning over the engine, I'm sure if it was running at 700rpm it would be the 50-60psi. I've probably done the long start about 8 times. I don't get to do anything today. The checking engine light is Not stay on after I try and start it. I don't have a code reader any way. I'll probably have to take it to a mechanic.
 
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