We have some great weather in Oklahoma right now, 70's for another day and then the freezing weather comes. I took the opportunity to pull the valve covers for a retorque since I have 5000 miles on the new injectors.

I was looking for the re-torque specs under the valve covers and found several different numbers.

Before I go further I wanted to cross reference the FTE brotherhood...

Are injector hold down bolts, 120 in-lb / 10 ft-lb?

I remember a cool graphic that had the number for the rockers as well as injectors, however that search turned up a post by Pocket saying 28-31 ft-lbs is the going spec for injectors.

Again, looking for a confirmation on the current numbers before I snap off some bolts.

If anyone has the cool photo listing the numbers, could you mind posting so i can add it to data packet of good info?

Thanks so much,

Jesse

 

Most go by the 120-130 inch/lb for the injector hold downs, and 20 foot/lbs for the rocker arm pedestals.

28-31 ft/lbs and you will definitely snap the bolts.

Here's the thread with the pics I bet you were looking for.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-cent-mod.html

 

Injector hold down bolts: 120 inch pounds
Rocker pedestal bolts: 20 foot pounds
Glow plugs: 14 foot pounds

 

I'm guessing that new valve cover gaskets should be in hand when diving under the valve covers? How old or how many times would you go under there reusing the used gaskets?

Thanks,
Mark

 

As long as they aren't leaking or showing signs of electrical problems There's no reason to replace them.

 

I have a new number to consider: I can actually hear an injector when it's coming loose - and it can be seen on the OBDII port. The last time I had an injector come loose - the IPR was about 10% above normal, the sound was a bit "off" with a warm engine (it hides when the oil is cold), I got a little bucking, and the torque on the bolt had loosened to 75-80 inch-pounds. I know this number because I started with the torque wrench at 50 in/lbs and cranked it up until the bolt spun. I always start at 50 in/lbs when checking the bolts, because if that turns the bolt - the book says to pull the injector and redo the O-rings.


4 people have tried to keep the bolts down on Stinky's injectors, and nobody had success until I hot-torqued and thread-locked the bolts. I read a diesel magazine article suggest 140 in/lbs on the bolts, and they acknowledged the spec is 120. Seeing factory torque not work under pristine VCs, and having my injectors play Whack-A-Mole for 6 months, I am a big fan of hot-torqueing to 130 in/lbs.

 

Thanks for the notes. I'm all for a good torqueing, I just don't want to snap a bolt.

 

Drivers side done. I stepped through the torque as to not apply it all at once. Drivers side valve cover is back on. I feel the need to go under the passenger side. Anyone have any tips for the passenger side valve cover on an excursion?

I've got the drivers side down to a science, but I've never been under the passengers side and it looks intimidating with the limited space.

Thanks!

 

If you don't already have one, a 13mm flex socket makes it MUCH easier.

 

I have those, I'll give it a go and see how far I get. These older 7.3's are tight, how sad you have to remove the cab to work on the new trucks. I wish I could do a front end pivot that would rotate the hood and fenders forward like a bus or semi...

 

All it takes is time, torch and money

 

13mm flex socket: I'm buying two more because I wore out my first one on all the work I've done on Stinky. 1/4" drive deep 8mm socket is another great tool for the torque on #5 injector. Watch out for debris from the heater insulation - it can scrape into the head and cause issues. Get all of it out, if some falls in the head.

Beware of the MAP sensor mounting bolts, they snack on wrists, forearms, jacket sleeves - whatever you put in their mouth.

 

Good to see ya Al Thanks for posting the old link!! I was trying to think when was the last time I was under my VC's and from the thread you posted it was 3 yrs ago. I have been planning on new glow plugs for awhile and now I need to do it sooner than later.
Rich I am going to use your method when I recheck my injector by starting at 50in/lbs and see how much they have loosed up in 3 yrs. I'll also do the engine hot-torqueing also. Doing it your way will give me idea at what rate do they loosen up and which injector. And thank you for pointing out that the book says as far as replacing injector orings if torque drops to 50in/lbs or less.
I don't have the book so this is very helpful info to me.
Thanks

 

I had to learn all this stuff the hard way, I'm glad sharing that may spare others the circus games.