Cool, thanks for the info. Most I've found here in AK are in the 5-6K range, with lots of miles. I'll just keep searching.
Good luck on your swap!

 

Ok......I have a turbo clearance question.

I have factory A/C.

Is it easier to flip the exhaust manifold in order to get enough clearance between the turbo & the A/C box?

And if I flip the exhaust manifold do I need to get spacer between the turbo & manifold in order to clock the turbo? I've seen pictures where some guys could clock the turbo over enough without the turbo case hitting the exhaust manifold.

Ryan

 

Yes, you would have to flip the manifold for clearance. As far as clocking your turbo some have bolts that clamp the turbine housings that you loosen a little to turn the housing. Some have large circlips basically that you have to remove to clock the housing. A stock HX35 has the circlips. They are a huge pain to reinstall. You should not need a spacer unless your turbo has a different size exhust inlet then your stock manifold. I.E. T3 vs T4 ect. As a side note when you flip everything make sure your turbo's oil inlet is within 15 degrees of vertical. If you don't you will have oiling issues.

 

Thanks CO

Now onto intercoolers. I measured up my 2nd Gen Dodge and it's pretty wide. Is the 7.3 Intercooler much narrower? From what I've read and seen it looks like it goes around my 460 radiator and it must miss the PS gear?

And I've seen that trimming of the grille inserts is required to clear the intercooler. Where is everyone putting their tranny coolers?

Ryan

 

So I can just flip the manifold and rebolt it on (with new gasket I'd imagine)

So if I want to avoid all that do I just use a spacer? I saw another guy do that somewhere?

If I use stock turbo and stock flipped exhaust manifold I shouldn't have a problem, right?

 

The 2nd gen cummins intercooler is far too wide to fit inside the fender wells. If you look through my thread I have the 7.3 intercooler mounted in my truck. It should clear the steering box depending on what your running.

As far as the tranny cooler. I would immagine they are using the stock log cooler that came factory on the passenger side of the engine. You could run an aftermarket cooler but it'd better be big. You'd have to mount it along the frame rail somewhere.


So I can just flip the manifold and rebolt it on (with new gasket I'd imagine)

Yes, you can just flip the manifold.


So if I want to avoid all that do I just use a spacer? I saw another guy do that somewhere?

I'm unsure what you mean by use a spacer. I see no need to space anything out.


If I use stock turbo and stock flipped exhaust manifold I shouldn't have a problem, right?


If you place your engine correctly, it will be tight with your a/c box for sure but I have seen it done.

 

Thanks for answering all the questions.

Ryan

 

Got the Dodge torn down and the motor & trans ready to pull. Going to pick up an engine hoist tonight hopefully.



Ryan

 

Better make it the most heavy duty one you can afford. The sucker is way over 1000 lbs with the attached tranny. Most 2 ton cherry pickers fully extended only have a 1000 lb capacity. They are only 2 ton with the boom all the way in.

 

Looking good Ryan!

 

Well I got the heart out of the Dodge and on the floor. Took the t case off and just (3) more TC bolts and the bellhousing bolts and the trans will be off. I'll be taking it down this week to get rebuilt. Still planning on removing the drivetrain from the crewcab before Christmas. That's "the plan" anyway.......





Ryan

 

I don't know how you guys do anything without an overhead hoist. I guess I'm just spoiled rotten.

 

I would love to have one......and yes you're spoiled

 

And it wasn't real easy.....that damn stud on top of the rear valve cover that holds the "cummins" trim piece on......hung up on the insulation and the cab that overhangs the motor.........it took quite a bit of finagling to get it to come out and over the crossmember.

 

We curse. A LOT. And have good strong friends!