Okay here goes...

I bought this truck used about 6 weeks ago. Since then it's been a big money pit. Problems started with the truck randomly stalling. Had the local ford dealer run diagnostics on it and they said FICM. I bought a FICM from dieseltechron. Came preprogrammed via me giving him my VIN. Dealership installed it for me for free. Driving out of the dealer same thing. Truck stalled and would crank but no start. So... they then diagnosed it as my HPOP. I went ahead and had the HPOP, ICP, IPR, Oil Cooler new starter, new batteries, and did an EGR delete. Thought I was good. Truck seemed to run fine for a couple days. Then after driving to work, the truck had no crank no start. Replaced the starter. Cranked right up. Again thought I was good. So my family drove to Arkansas from Texas for Thanksgiving. On the way up the truck just died while driving. Wouldn't turn over just, click. Replaced the starter AGAIN. Cranked right up. So on the ride to Arkansas I noticed the dash battery light was sporadically flickering in no steady or even fashion. Seemed when I hit 70 MPH it would "buck" a little but we made it fine. So we got to the hotel and went to go get food (engine and transmission hot) crank no start. Sprayed a touch of starter fluid on the cab side of the new air filter and got her running. The next morning (cold) cranked right up. So on our way home I noticed the battery light flashing at a steady on and off pace. All of a sudden it died and wouldn't start back up while hot. Had it towed to this Ford stealership and they said I have a high pressure oil leak and needed all new injectors... they quoted me 7000.00

Thanks in advance for reading this. I'm completely desperate and stranded.

Any thoughts?

 

You need to get something to watch live data like a scan gauge or phone app, I once had a battery light flash and shut the truck down while driving.it did this 3 times every time I was watching my edge Cts I noticed every time it did it I lost all power to my ficm. Talked to edd A Few times I replaced the fuses under the hood for the ficm and cleaned every one with electrical cleaner and haven't had the problem since.

 

I wouldnt just throw parts at it. Hard to believe all those components failed at same time. I sure wouldnt go back to that dealer. I agree, get gauges and post some numbers.

 

Sorry didnt notuce the stranded part. Where are you right now, maybe someone can help you find good mechanic.

 

with battery light flashing you probably have a voltage issue. get scangauge or obdii adapter and app, fix the volt issue first then move on to the rest.

 

Check the small 2 wire plug going to the alternator. Disconnect and reconnect. Also check the ring terminal coming off of the passenger side battery. That is where the alternator among other thing connect to the batteries. Also check the ring terminal on the drivers side, it goes to feed the main fuse block.

 

I have an OBD II Bluetooth adapter and the full version of tourque with the Ford power stroke PIDs installed. Voltage in both batteries as well as from the hot in to the alternator are all pushing between 13.8 to 14.9 volts. The batteries are brand new. Had an alternator test done. Checked out. Monitored both the batteries and the alternator while running with a multimeter same. As I watched the HPOP pressure on the ride up it was always 500 or plus while accelerating. During all 800 miles. EBP was between 20 and 50. FICM pushing a steady 48 - 49 volts. Recently cleaned my battery terminals.

So from what the Ford tech showed me looked like my high pressure oil system while trying to start HOT is only able to build 350 psi roughly.

He's going to a high pressure air test tomorrow because he says I have a high pressure oil leak. I know it's not the pump or on the bottom as I just had the work done by my personal mechanic who I trust.



Codes


Thanks again.

 

Wow, what a crappy story! First, do you know if it's an early or late '04? I ask because the high pressure oil system is a bit different between the two. You can tell by looking at the passenger side valve cover. If the ICP sensor is there (circled in red) it's a late build.



If it's an early build, odds are pretty good your "new" high pressure oil pump is the culprit. (I have a friend who went through 2 replacements,#3 was a good one) It's not uncommon to have problems with the replacement pump. If it was installed by a dealership I believe it should have a warranty.

If it's a late build, there are standpipes and dummy plugs that can leak. Not expensive parts, but a few hours to install.

That is assuming the dealership you're at now has correctly diagnosed a HPO problem. I hate to say it but sounds like a screw job. It possible but unlikely the injectors are your running issue, but they aren't causing a high pressure oil leak and $7k is way too much to replace them. I'd at least look nearby for a better shop.

The battery light is pretty much right 100%. You have a charging problem and that can be very tough on that new FICM. This need to be repaired before any significant driving.

It's hard to diagnose stuff like this on the internet but being you're stranded on the road and your hot no-start followed by a cold start, I'd guess standpipes/dummy plugs if it's a late build and the new HPOP if it's an early truck.

As always, it's worth a shot to try unplugging the ICP. If it's bad and reading wrong there may be good HPO psi and it may start in default mode.

A third option, if you want some help post up what city you're near, maybe one of us could lend you a hand with some knowledge, diag equipment and tools if we are near you.

Just saw you're last post. Air test .

 

My wife and daughter and I are staying at a hotel near the stealership. We are in Little Rock Arkansas.

 

No dummy plugs early build model.

 

Tell the dealership you are not ready to replace your injectors. They are likely trying to make some money on the warranty work they may be about to do by replacing good injectors.

You need to have a high pressure oil test to know where the problem is. Sounds like you've had mechanics throwing enough parts at it already.

Or, I'd it cranks tomorrow, see if you can get it home. No bathroom breaks for anybody. I have a long story I could tell about a 6 hour drive after puncturing a fuel tanks in a Camry. Plugged a bad leak with a piece of shreaded tie enough to get home.

 

Damn I wish I'd have seen this yesterday as I was in Little Rock for Thanksgiving. What dealership has your truck? Maybe I can make a better recommendation. I seriously doubt you need 8 injectors. Hell......for 7K I'd take a week off and drive back down to replace them myself.

 

Tim, what do you think the odds are of the oil rail fitting(s) being cracked like that truck Anthony worked on in Lousiana for vgrrl and them folks last year? I've been waiting to see that come up again. If you remember, that truck (2003) also had several new parts including the HPOP and the title of the thread was "All Injectors Blow Out at the Same Time". That dealership was stumped and wanted to put a whole set of injectors in it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...same-time.html

 

Im also wondering if there could be crap in the IPR valve due to the oil cooler work.

 

That's probably more likely. It just struck me how similar the situations are. Hopefully the air test will lead them in the right direction.