I dug out the manual and read that section, something I have never done LOL. I have 4 high mileage cars and trucks from the 60's and have never had a bearing failure. I will do that on my next wheel bearing maintenance just for fun..

 

Well that's just it, isn't it? I don't always follow the rules either, but I like to know what they are before I break 'em. When it comes to brakes and other safety items there's something to be said for paying attention. There's a method to the madness there somewhere.

 

Well your brake job looks good so far. Which reminds me I need to do my fronts soon, did the rears last year. 350,000 miles between 1975-2012 and I can't remember how many sets of brakes and no failures yet LOL. My 66 F250 and both 66 Mustangs all still have the original wheel bearings. Knock on wood..

 

The front bearings looked OK, but I haven't inspected them real close, because they were all replaced anyway. The passenger side was reefed down pretty tight, wheel would barely turn by hand. Spindles looked fine. Maybe I'll pick up a MPG or two, ha ha. New cups and new bearings will definitely take more preload than well-used bearing sets. They are smooth!

 

Well I dug around the net a little bit - about the spec for packing hubs with grease - and one angle I hadn't thought of, and makes sense is to prevent corrosion in the event of running through deep water.

By filling the hub roughly even with the bearing cups (quite a bit of grease) there is no way standing water could remain in the cavity of the hub as it might otherwise. This is SOP with boat trailer hubs, apparently. Some instructions indicate that the dust seal should also be lined with bearing grease as well.

 

Another thing that "now is the best time"; is make sure the emergency/park brake cable is adjusted and lubed correctly. It works OK now, but ya better have had a big ole bowl a Wheaties that mornin' - Really gotta wail on it to get it secure.

But at least it retracts completely and doesn't stick. I don't believe so, anyway. Will check this carefully to be sure when the rear brakes are complete though. With new shoes adjusted to new drums I expect it will work at least a little easier and iirc the cable still has some adjustment left.

What's good to lube the cables, thinking something with graphite or maybe lithium grease, speedometer type lube would work?

Also on the rear drums the backing plate shoe pads are showing a bit of wear. Not real bad, but when wear starts it accelerates fast, like most things. It's important that these are clean, smooth and flat for positive shoe action. I've read the fix is to MIG it up and then grind the surface flat when they get real bad.

Looks to me that something like JB Weld would do here and work it smooth and flat? Not sure how well it works as far as abrasive wear resistance though.