PM sent. To Tedster.

John the picker

 

I am about to through out one driver side front drum, I have gone to disc brakes.

I will hold onto if this part is needed, but other wise I will be throwing into scrap.

Is a stock 64 front drum valuable?

 

I just finished-up the brake setup on my '66. I got the drums from RockAuto (chose the Raybestos parts for $30 each - all the vendors like NPD and LMC wanted $100 each). Got all the brake hardware kits, wheel cylinders, seals, and bearings there too. Just gotta be careful with their shipping madness. Sometimes I use them to get part numbers - then check Amazon. Amazon Prime - free 2-day shipping.

When I got the drums I bolted them to the existing hubs and studs. Someone had tack-welded the old front drums on, but when I put them on and torqued some nuts on, and then removed them, the drums stayed. But to play it safe while turning them I installed 1/2-20 nuts on every stud and bombed them on. I was tempted to drill and tap the hubs and put in some counter-sunk screws - but if I keep the drums synch'd to their location on the hubs (now that they are turned) - all will be well with the world. I'm looking for some 1/2" push washers to retain them when the wheels need to come off.

Having brake drums turned these days, on the weekend, that's the fun part. Most auto parts stores these days don't touch brake turning. I ended up going to a full-service tire/brake/shocks shop who charged my $20 per to true everything. But had them 3 hours later.

 

I too have one drum that wasn't scored. I replaced both anyway. I'd offer mine up for the cost of shipping it, but I really should measure it to see if it exceeds the 11.090" maximum.

Whether they are valuable? I suppose if they said Ford on them and were still turnable - someone might consider that of value.

 

Do you recall the part number for the drum you used? These are 1644R

 

Yes, for the front they were 1644R's and fitment on my 66 was good. I only turned the rear - so no idea the number for those off the top my head.

 

Oh, might as well mention the item I did get and didn't go on correctly. The front wheel cylinders I got needed to be machined to fit. I wasn't able to find any that fit (no indication I got the wrong ones - by part number) but the new ones were sort of flat across the top and mine needed to be slightly arched across the top. I just stood at the grinder and ground the arch in. I'm going to open my old ones up soon and if they can be restored - I'll buy some kits for them and keep them around.

 

Just ran into this with the R/H cylinder. Grr! Don't have a grinder here. Have a dremel clone, won't be pretty but make it work.

Most of the hardware is OK. The star adjusters are marked "L" and "R" on the inside and have 1 or 2 stripes on the barrel to indicate which side, respectively. So long as they are cleaned up to turn freely and the teeth are not worn they are better than anything in the kits. A little anti-sieze will keep them turning.

 

C3OZ-2061-C (replaced C5TZ-2061-A) Right & C3OZ-2062-C (replaced C5TZ-2062-A) Left .. Front Wheel Cylinders - 1 1/16" diameter / Obsolete

1964/65 F100 4WD / 1965/67 F100 2WD / 1963/65 Fairlane with 10" x 2 1/2" brakes.

 

Thanks ND. Should have followed the "Orich Rule" - only buy brake parts local. I bought all four corners new wheel cylinders online. What showed up at my door was one domestic, and the rest foreign. It would stand to reason that each axle should have identical cylinders. Any two manufacturers cylinder of course "should" work OK together but these days that's not the way to bet, considering it won't even fit is not cause for particular confidence.

 

Got the front end axle buttoned up today with all new drums, shoes, springs, bearings and cups, grease seals etc on the old hubs with new wheel studs. Drifted out the old bearing cups and installed new ones and filled the hubs even to the cups with fresh wheel bearing grease. Turns real nice.

One thing to pay attention to, the grease seals sort of look like they could be installed either way. At least, the ones they sent me do. Only one way is correct. Test fit on the spindle before driving into the hub. They will sort of "snap" into place over the spindle in the right direction, but will not go the other way at all. They're 10 bucks a pop.

SO I moved on to the rear drums. A little propane and PB blaster got the drivers side drum off without much trouble, maybe five minutes or so, I'd had the rear wheel bearings replaced this century I figured they wouldn't be too bad. No leaks and the brakes overall look pretty good. A little more complicated than the front axle due to the emergency brake components and the hub in the way, but looks doable. Dig in tomorrow.

 

Hope you packed the bearings and didn't just fill the hub with grease. I personally wouldn't fill a hub with grease...

 

LOL!! Yeah, have done bearing repacks hundreds of times. I did neglect to mention that part, but it seems obvious. Have never been a fan of loading up a hub either.

For one thing, it doesn't appear to me that the grease ever moves. Ever. And it makes a BIG mess to clean out and reinstall. Funny you mentioned that, because when I picked up the drums today I asked them about that. They said something about heat, and centrifugal force will get grease where it needs to go. Like I said, haven't seen grease move that I recall, maybe they used something different as far as grease goes back in the 30s or whatever and the process still hangs on.

However the 64 Ford Shop Manual specifies this, as well as the current SKF bearing .pdf, and probably Timken and everybody else, the .mil folks do the same, so... I figure they know what they are doing. More than me anyway. Or we're keeping bearing grease people employed.

Got curious and just had to pop off the other rear drum tonite, it saw me coming and pretty much jumped off in fright. Looks good in there too no axle leaks thankfully, shoes worn pretty good though and a little cylinder seep. No problem, all will get replaced.

 

Thats interesting, I have never read the manual regarding packing the hubs with grease but will look at it today. I've been packing bearings since high school auto shop class in 1964 and have never packed the hubs or seen any cars or trucks packed when taken apart, just a little amount inside the hub.. I pack the bearings religiously every 10,000-15000 miles. The ones in my truck have 350,000 miles on them LOL.

 

Yepper. Group 20 pg. 20 - 18 1964 FORD Truck Shop Manual REPACK AND ADJUST FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS ..... snip...

13. Pack the inside of the hub with wheel bearing grease. Fill the hub until the grease is flush with the inside diameters of both bearing cups.

From SKF bearing installation guide .pdf

4. Coat the hub cavity with the same wheel bearing grease, to the depth of the bearing cup’s smallest diameter. Apply a light coat of grease to the spindle.