2004 Ford Escape Stuck in limp-In Mode?
#1
2004 Ford Escape Stuck in limp-In Mode?
Hello, Wife come home the other day after leaving for work with the truck no going past 20KM to 30KM.. After some investigating it seems to be in Limp - In Mode. There was a Check-Engine light & after further investigation found a Vac hose with a leak, repaired this & test drove. Same issue.... then there was a loud hissing sound from the engine area so I investigate & now found the EGR sensor (DPEF pressure sensor ) had blow a hose & fried the sensor. New sensor was replace along with 2-hoses cleared the engine light but the truck still will not go more then 20KM or 30KM max.. I checked the EGR valve with vac pump & engine stalls or so the valve is good. I have left the neg cable off the batt to try & clear the Limp-In mode without success. Looking for a way to clear the limp-in mode or do I need to clear it with a scan tool?
#2
#3
FWIW, here is a quote from a different forum where I commented on a performance problem that sounded to me like it could be clogged cat(s). See if it is any use to you.
I should add that the car we worked on further on in the text below (a GM 3800 V6), seemed to have reasonable exhaust output at idle, as checked by jamming a rag over the exhaust pipe. Which lead me astray for a short time...
I should add that the car we worked on further on in the text below (a GM 3800 V6), seemed to have reasonable exhaust output at idle, as checked by jamming a rag over the exhaust pipe. Which lead me astray for a short time...
The first thing I would be looking at is to confirm/deny one or more almost-plugged catalytic converters. That can explain the poor performance effects as described. And the excessive backpressure in the exhaust system can be popping off the DPFE hose. But test to verify.
Can use a vacuum gauge to check intake manifold vacuum to check for exhaust system plugging - engine vac will be reasonable or close to reasonable at idle, but will drop and stay low after the engine is revved under load and accelerator held steady (hold brakes and load engine up in drive), or put a long enough hose on the vac gauge to route hose through window and take it for a drive. Vac will drop momentarily when the throttle is opened, but should increase again if OK. With plugged, will stay low.
Another way is to temporarily disconnect exhaust pipe(s) ahead of cats and see how it does loading it up with brake torque while stationary. Some have pulled out the forward oxygen sensors to create an escape path for exhaust to check.
For me, I would use a vac gauge, and if it looks bad, then disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifolds, just need to back the pipes off far enough to leave an airspace for exhaust to exit, for the final verify that indeed cats are plugged. Plugged cats can break up too, and pieces can move downstream into muffler.
When disconnected, exhaust pieces can be tested by using a big shop vac on the air exit mode - put shop vac hose with air blowing out into the piece, use a wet rag to help make a seal. All mufflers, pipes, cats, should be very free-flowing.
We used a vacuum gauge to verify plugged exhaust system on a V6 FWD car. And then disconnected the exhaust pipe from manifold, could only back it off 3/4" or so, but that was plenty. We brake-torqued it then, the vacuum was now decent, and the engine acted properly. Since it was FWD, there was no exhaust pipe over a rear axle, so we disconnected the electrical connector on the oxygen sensor, and disconnected all of the exhaust hangers, and dropped the whole exhaust system onto the floor. Then dragged it out from underneath, and started disconnecting. Testing the cat with the shop vac in air-output confirmed the cat was almost totally plugged. We blew some pieces out of the pipes, and reverse-airflowed the muffler and resonator while tipping them every which way to be sure nothing was caught inside. Then putting on a new cat solved the problem. This was on a >>100k mile car.
EDIT: On the car we fixed, looking at it with a OBDII scanner showed nothing constantly wrong. There were some intermittent codes here and there that would be different each time, but no codes that had anything to do with oxygen sensors. It was a stealth problem, as far as OBDII was concerned. It took my old-school knowledge to approach it differently. A few minutes with a vacuum gauge, and a quick test drive for a block with the vac gauge in the car nailed it. The exhaust pipe disconnect was icing on the cake, we felt confident then ordering up a new cat assembly.
Can use a vacuum gauge to check intake manifold vacuum to check for exhaust system plugging - engine vac will be reasonable or close to reasonable at idle, but will drop and stay low after the engine is revved under load and accelerator held steady (hold brakes and load engine up in drive), or put a long enough hose on the vac gauge to route hose through window and take it for a drive. Vac will drop momentarily when the throttle is opened, but should increase again if OK. With plugged, will stay low.
Another way is to temporarily disconnect exhaust pipe(s) ahead of cats and see how it does loading it up with brake torque while stationary. Some have pulled out the forward oxygen sensors to create an escape path for exhaust to check.
For me, I would use a vac gauge, and if it looks bad, then disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifolds, just need to back the pipes off far enough to leave an airspace for exhaust to exit, for the final verify that indeed cats are plugged. Plugged cats can break up too, and pieces can move downstream into muffler.
When disconnected, exhaust pieces can be tested by using a big shop vac on the air exit mode - put shop vac hose with air blowing out into the piece, use a wet rag to help make a seal. All mufflers, pipes, cats, should be very free-flowing.
We used a vacuum gauge to verify plugged exhaust system on a V6 FWD car. And then disconnected the exhaust pipe from manifold, could only back it off 3/4" or so, but that was plenty. We brake-torqued it then, the vacuum was now decent, and the engine acted properly. Since it was FWD, there was no exhaust pipe over a rear axle, so we disconnected the electrical connector on the oxygen sensor, and disconnected all of the exhaust hangers, and dropped the whole exhaust system onto the floor. Then dragged it out from underneath, and started disconnecting. Testing the cat with the shop vac in air-output confirmed the cat was almost totally plugged. We blew some pieces out of the pipes, and reverse-airflowed the muffler and resonator while tipping them every which way to be sure nothing was caught inside. Then putting on a new cat solved the problem. This was on a >>100k mile car.
EDIT: On the car we fixed, looking at it with a OBDII scanner showed nothing constantly wrong. There were some intermittent codes here and there that would be different each time, but no codes that had anything to do with oxygen sensors. It was a stealth problem, as far as OBDII was concerned. It took my old-school knowledge to approach it differently. A few minutes with a vacuum gauge, and a quick test drive for a block with the vac gauge in the car nailed it. The exhaust pipe disconnect was icing on the cake, we felt confident then ordering up a new cat assembly.
#6
Although I had some back-pleasure from the tail-pipe it was still blowing off the sensor ... fried the second one but was able to repair with J&B cold weld... .love that stuff... also change both U-Joints Diff oil.... rear breaks & driver side bearing this weekend... not a fan of this truck... its the cougar just different body & the added 4x4 but same ****... that's why I drive a bimmer..... LOL thanks guys for the posts...
#7
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#8
Yeah the cougar WAS the same garbage.... I know my wife had it before the truck.... did everything to convince her not to buy it.... no such luck.... if I had my way should would have purchased a bimmer... now she want won go figure!!! Both the Cougar & the Truck have Mazda engine's go figure....
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