Was looking at possibly trading in my Early 99 on a 2014 F-150. All was fine right up until 2 different dealerships insulted me with the trade in offer. $1250 and $1500 totally pissed me off. So I have decided to keep my truck and upgrade some of the things that need fixing.
I have been told I need new injectors. Where is the best place to get them for a great price and should I do new or remanufactored?
Also as one of my first repairs/upgrades I plan to replace all the upholstery on the seats. I was looking for new covers that I can put on that will look like the factory seats. Trouble is I cannot seem to find them anywhere online. I got a couple of estimates from local shops but they are a bit out of reach. Any help on locating some would be greatly appreciated.

 

Injectors: New is expensive, but so is chasing reman issues... and one is less painless. I had reman, then pulled everything and went new without one iota of regret for spending the extra money - just regret for not going new in the first place.

 

what seats do you have?

 

Wow what a kick in the nuts!! Oh well it is their loss! Fix it up and keep running the beast, for them low balling you.

 

Custom Truck and Car Seat Covers | Precision Fit

 

You always get hosed when you attempt to trade in any vehicle. Always try and sell it private party.

 

Sorry, I noticed your sig of a 700R4...what's that all about?

 

I guess I should have said auto transmission. I am not sure if it is a standard, hd, or other. Al I know is that it has held up very well for me.

 

There is also a seat cover guy on ebay , Pretty sure they are exact replacements depending on what cover you need

 

The seat shop in Texas. They have complete replacement including foam etc.. They are a little pricey buy it looks factory and upgraded leather. You can put seat heaters in also. Go on line and watch there video's.

 

I have the 40/20/40 Lariat leather/vinyl seats. I will look into the ebay guy and the seat shop in Texas has just what I think i want. I am thinking that I will also go with new injectors.

 

A 700R4 is a GM transmission. Do you have a Duramax in front of that thing or is there some kind of conversion out there I've never read about?

I'm not sure why people still think trading in a vehicle at a dealership will result in a fair proposition. It's great you are keeping it, but if you want a new truck, why not sell your current one on craigslist, then take the money and apply it toward a new truck. This isn't rocket science here, do some research on the best way to buy a new vehicle and how to negotiate. It is never a good idea to trade anything in at a dealer.

I can't help but wonder what leads you to believe you need new injectors? Who said that, and why?

 

The local shop, that I completely trust, checked everything for me. Its running very rough and getting terrible mileage. All the electrical is good. All injectors are getting oil and power. everything tested good. yet it still shows a "stumble" in cylinder 8 and 3. It comes and goes. According to my buddy its not bad enough to register as a misfire but it is there. His suggestion is that I probably have one or two injectors that are not up to snuff and he recommended getting a full set since they would have subpar performance if the flowrates were mismatched.
This is Brent of Brent's diesel in Rosenberg Texas. He helps me with the diagnosis for free knowing that I am going to fix it myself so there is really nothing for him to gain by making me buy unnecessary parts. He is just a good guy that is so busy that he really doesn't need my truck taking up a parking spot at his shop.

 

I went with Swamps 175/146 injectors. You'll need a chip though. $1800.00ish for both.
You might look into swapping the seat out from a salvaged truck. I have a nice set of leather seats, with heater, from a lariat.

noticed you have a hydra, $1600.00ish for the injectors. their remans carry a 200,000 mile warranty.
oh, and I know a guy that had a 2000 crew cab 57,000 miles, yes 57,000, and they gave him 10k. they turned around and sold it for 18k

 

Is this "stumble" showing up on a Cylinder Contribution Test? What are the Rotational Velocity %'s for the cylinders in question? Have you tried a different cam sensor? What color sensor do you have in there now?