Can you please clarify something? When you say, "no ohms," do you mean ZERO ohms, as in a short circuit, or infinite resistance, as in an open circuit?

 

Yes the IDM can shut down an entire bank when there is a problem, but it does that by not sending the command to fire the injectors. The wiring will still ohm out correctly. Putting an ohm meter on the wiring is how you find out which injector is bad and caused the IDM to shut down the bank.

This problem is different.

I agree. Having a running truck suddenly loose 7 of 8 items in one head doesn't sound right. You are testing the glow plug pins against a battery ground and the injector pins against the center pin, right?

I'd pull the valve covers and start with the glow plugs (agree on removing the autolite's. They tend to swell up and get stuck in the head) Test the glow plug with one lead on ground and one lead touching the tip of the glow plug. Then move to the injectors and test each injector with the meter directly.

At this point I'd be leaning more toward a problem with the meter, testing procedure, or the new wiring or gasket being bad. Just too much to fail at once unless there was something much more than a spark.

 

Right the volt multimeter I use are EXPESNIVE $300. Passenger side I test they were GOOD. Driver side ZERO NO numbers just 0 OHM. Expect 1 glow plug show ohm. I use Alternator for ground but thought it maybe bad ground so I test from battery nothing change but passenger side show good ohm.

Thought bad valve cover gasket wiring. Replaced that same thing no difference.

 

I forgot to add

Buzz test it wasn't loud.

First 4 were weak buzz and 4 were LOUD. I believe driver side was LOUD BUZZ and passenger side were weak.

 

I just went through all this as well, except my OHM reading were in spec.

After replacing the UVCH, IDM, and one injector, I figured out that unplugging #6 would allow the truck to run on 7 of 8 cylinders. This, of course, was after checking the entire harness from the IDM to each bank. I finally got a hold of AE software, and buzz test showed inj #6 fault. Replaced, and she is purring again!

I would suggest unplugging one injector, on the dead bank, at a time until you find the one taking out the bank. This is how I narrowed it down to #4 or #6, then the buzz took care of the rest.

 

That's because the ohm test is for a wiring connection on the injectors. It doesn't catch a bad solenoid with those specs. To catch the bad solenoid in your situation, you have to look for the injector that ohms out about .5 ohms or so different than the others. The glow plug specs do test good or bad.

His case is different. He's got no reading from the harness which is why he needs to test the injectors and glow plugs directly.

 

I recently lost PS injectors and had the P1316 code set. I pulled the VC and did not see any issues. Electrical checks also passed. I think my problem (other than a random IDM issue) was the 42 pin connector. I found the center bolt all the way loose and several of the pins slightly corroded.

I cleaned both side of the connector with contact cleaner, re-installed and tightened the center bolt real good. No issues since.

 

Update.

New valve cover gasket with wiring harness.
New IPR sensor
Test 4 injectors on passenger they PASS GOOD for 260K on it.
New Motorcraft glow plugws with glow plug relay

Still having issue. Here problem.

Get P1280 ICP pressure low

Won't stay run until you spray brake cleaner for 10 seconds before engine catch up to stay on running.

Push gas all way barely work. Pump gas it slow climb. FLOOR WAY it was FOREVER up to 2K rpm Exhaust smell really RICH.

Until engine is REALLY HOT HOT it run damn perfect until you turn off and start up 5 sec it wouldn't start until you hold gas pedal it slow climb up with badly shake.

My AE scanner keep saying 1 2 3 4 7 cylinders circuit contribution balance fault Until it get HOT it GONE expect #1 and #8

My suspect oil leak on passenger side? It had new o-rings on injectors.

Oil bubble show on dipstick like 10 bubbles.

 

Pikachu caught it and everybody sped right past it. Zero ohms is a short, not an open. "OL" (Open Line) might show up on the meter with no connection, but Zero ohms is a dead short. The fact that our educated friend with a foreign accent can correctly read the passenger side makes it sound like he's doing it right. We may be dealing with one or more chafed (or burned) wires.

When you ohmed the injectors, did you check them at the UVCH connector, or the 42-pin connector? Please click the UVCH link in my signature for more information on the 42-pin connector, this may help with more tests.

I would want to know more about this "ground" cable that was removed and it sparked. Can we get a picture of what sparked?

The firing order when running is 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8, but the buzz test fires them in the order 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8. If the first four are dim buzzers, then this problem is spanning both sides of the head.

What did you use to buzz-test the injectors and get the CCT? Do you still have that available? If so, we'll be needing that to do more tests.

"Get P1280 ICP pressure low" is another matter. I'm curious if we have an internal oil leak, a bad ICP sensor, or a poorly-running engine not delivering the driving force to get the ICP up to pressure without a lot of IPR whip-cracking.

Get those Autolites out! This is one of those things where we 7.3L forum contributors are unanimous on at all times: The Autolites swell up and get stuck in the head, causing a very expensive repair bill. I have no idea why they haven't taken those off the market, but here we are.

Your accent makes me curious, what is your native language? I've done some travelling myself, and I enjoy trying to figure the tongue out. It is much harder without hearing it... so I will just try to guess the continent and region: East Asia?

 

My first language is American Sign Language.


We put motorcraft glow plugs BTW autolite were little struggle to get out.

That ground cable we discovered was for Intake heater on turbo manifold.


But my question why it so hard start? Wouldn't stay run until you spray brake cleaner for couple seconds before it catch up and stay running itself. My feeling it not firing injectors.

I got video of Hot start you could hear stall and crank long time.

 

Here video of running awesome until I turn off and there issue.

Notice volume of Fuel should be 9 around that is perfect. exhaust doesn't smell rich until you turn off now start up it smell TO RICH and there rough running with shakey.

 

Very clever... and I had that coming. I was guessing because of sentence structure. My next guess is you're keeping it brief to reduce typing, I get that.


I have never seen ICP shoot the moon like that in neutral, the PCM is really trying to compensate for the misfire. No chip or anything like that? What happens if you unplug the ICP connector before starting?


Here is a list of the usual suspects, but you won't need the transmission stuff:

 

He's deaf. He's been around a while. He's actually improving some, but apparently sentence structure and such is different with sign language. He's had the apology for bad grammar in his signature since I can remember. He's also good about trying to explain it different if you say you don't understand.

I don't have any comments to add after watching the video because I really couldn't see the numbers well. You might try the live data meter tab (I believe the second one from the left). It will show the live data numbers much larger and easier to read.

Rich said ICP spiked too quick, so I'll second unplugging the ICP sensor assuming the IPR duty % was abnormally high also. A bad ICP sensor can give off too low a reading and cause the IPR to overcompensate.

Do you have a way to check fuel pressure?

 

Unplug icp sensor same thing but seem to make engine run firm higher rpm if I can remember.

Plug icp sensor it idle lower smooth but shakey.

IPR duty was something 39% and ICP was 2500.

I have no idea if truck been programmed or chip. I feel it is stock since owner maintenance really well cause injectors look clean than my old F350 with 200K.


I have no way to check fuel pressure. Is it possible to rig tire stem on fuel cap for quick troubleshoot?

 

Forgot to add one thing owner told me issue start AFTER he dump diesel 911 grey bottle since "auto store" guy told him to use that.


That what I thought after I make him sniff on his truck's tank and other diesel truck. He said it defieienty smell different. the fuel on his truck smell weird.

Do you think it possible bad fuel batch plus diesel 911 grey bottle would affect this?