Don't wanna take over the first page. I've done some searching but not having any luck. Is there a good write up on adding electrical to our 09-14 trucks specifically? I plan to add a plug up by the battery to run my compressor or inverter (will run the inverter wire through to the cab and just plug it in when I plan on using it) and also use this plug to plug in jumper cables. Other stuff would be led strobes, a sub charging port etc. I could just run these to the 1v powers outlet but straight to the fuse block is so much cleaner. Thinking I can use empty spots in the fuse box. Any lights I add will be led so I was thinking just tap into fuse slots marked "spare", the 30 amp breaker for power windows may come in handy since I don't have power windows. I plan to install a switch panel somewhere for extra lights/accessories.

Just a thought as I dont want to hurt anything or run afoul of the warranty.

Z

 

How much power does the compressor and inverter need? In general I like to run my own circuit for add ons especially those that draw a lot of power.

 

Compressor and inverter will have a plug in directly at the battery. Most of the other stuff will be led's . I normally prefer a new circuit but if I have open fuse spots that seems like a better idea with just an inline switch?

 

Try here
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...09-and-up.html

 

Thanks, I had read through that and it's full of great I for. I will put in a fuse block to run stuff off of. For the in cab stuff and the led strobes I had really hoped to use blank fuse box locations. Just wondering if everyone has tried this.

Z

 

So, first, there's no such thing as "LED strobes". There is emergency lighting equipment... most new stuff is LED, some stuff (typically older) is strobe. Ideally, you want to stay away from your fuse box and all of the factory electrical. You're talking about high-current stuff (especially that inverter). Another consideration - is your truck a 2011+? If so, you also have a battery state-of-charge monitoring system to worry about. So, tell me this... what model year? How big an inverter (peak and continuous, in watts)? How many additional circuits, and what capacity (amperage) for each? I've built multiple F150s into mobile communications vehicles, including my personal truck. I'm running a second battery, isolation system, 48" of radio console space between the seats (dash to front of rear seat), complete emergency lighting package (interior lightbar/traffic advisor/~16 lightheads/dual 200 watt sirens/etc.), on-board computer, and more... so I know a little about electrical, especially in these trucks. I just need a little more detail about what you're going to be doing.

 

My truck is a 2014 5.0 scab. It will have a plow on it (the ford approved sno way with energy interruption headlights). I've never added a battery or older actor for a plow but wouldn't be opposed to it as long as the cost isn't astronomical.

My plan was to change my interior lights, parking and license lights to led to save a bit of amperage (and I'm a fan of led's) I don't want to mess with the factory harness more than I have to so probably won't do led blinkers then I don't have to add a resistor).

The inverter is 750 peak 400 running. i would not use the inverter or compressor ( an on board air viair style) constantly by any means. And never at the same time I wouldn't think.

I will add some led's up front and some fog and reverse lights. All led. My plan was the front led's and fogs will be on their own circuit. The rear back ups I had hoped to tie into the reverse circuit with a switch to turn them off when I don't need them (only turn off the add ins, not the factory reverse lights).

Then finally some of the small generic led flashers when plowing. I know it sounds like a lot but again, the inverter and compressor will be occasional use (the inverter could potentially see use during driving, charging a drill battery or running a laptop). The rest is all led and I don't mind running my own circuits.

Just out of curiosity what's the down side to using open fuse box locations for low amp draw accessories? I would think that is what they are there for but am always glad to be educated. I was actually an MECP certified decent stereo/alarm installer but that was many moons ago. I've forgotten most of it and things were very different 15+ years ago.

Thanks for any help you can give!

Z

 

So, first thing you need to know about is the battery state-of-charge monitoring. If you look at your battery cables, you'll find some black widgets clamped around the cable. These are Hall effect current probes.

The vehicle uses battery voltage, current draw, and quite a few other factors to determine what output voltage to command from the alternator. As an example, at high throttle input, the alternator field may be effectively commanded off - reducing engine load and improving performance.

You have two options:
1 - unplug the sensor. This will return you to a pre-2012 "typical" alternator management system, and this is the best answer for a multi-battery solution.
2 - assuming you don't add substantial additional battery capacity, ensure that all current flow for aftermarket equipment goes "through" the sensors, so the computer sees all of the energy consumed, both by the vehicle and by your aftermarket accessories.

As far as using the fusebox, Ford looks for reasons to deny warranty claims. Tapping into the factory electrical is a good way to open Pandora's box. Keep everything separate, that way you can disconnect your equipment and show that any issue is indeed Ford's problem. With the exception of purpose-built circuits like the upfitter switches in the Super Duties and the Raptor or police-package vehicles, Ford does NOT install electrical for your use.

As for your accessories:
Inverter - assuming 80% efficiency, your inverter will draw ~937 watts or about 80 amps. You should protect it with an 80-amp circuit breaker, run with a minimum of 4ga wire. If you want to control it with a switch or ignition, use a relay like this: https://www.tessco.com/products/disp....do?sku=380830 The inverter will get hot - it should be in the cab, with the fan and cooling fins unobstructed.

Jumper cable plug - straight off the big studs on the battery, and use serious cable. 1/0ga. minimum would be my choice.

Air compressor - wiring would depend on which model, but usually 50 amps is a reasonable guess. 6ga wire, use the same relay as above if you want to control it with a switch/ignition.

As for the smaller items, consider a Blue Sea fuse block like these: https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...locks/ST_Blade If you want to control the circuits with switches, use typical 30-amp relays.

As for the lighting, stay far FAR away from "cheap" LEDs. They fail. For your lights in the factory housings, consider the Feniex Cannon. These are multi-mode units that can replace your factory turn signal and give you warning as well. For your dedicated light heads, look into the Sound Off nForce. You can buy these in dual-color, so you can have flashing amber with a steady-burn white override for scene/work lighting.

Hopefully that all helps a bit! Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

Yes that Definitely helps! I hate unplugging factory sensors. Has this ever caused a problem specifically you know of? Thanks for all the recommendations. Blue sea stuff seemed hard to look up. How about this

Painless Performance: CirKit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block/7 Circuits/Weatherproof

To get me started (im sure I will have other questions later) I have one question that seems really dumb. So if I install the above I have 7 new circuits. If I want to put an individual physical switch on each circuit I think I accomplish that by just running the wire from the new box to a quality 12 v switch if approved amp rating, then the other side of the switch to the new accessors hot wire (so the fog lights hot wire or wires for example) . So in my example on anything of a lower draw, say 10 amps, maybe 15 amps (still only 75% of the fuseed line coming into the switch) the wire goes into the switch hot, then comes out of the switch (when turned on it will be hot ) and then goes to the hot terminals of my new fog or reverse lights for instance . In case of the compressor or inverter, or anothe high amp (above 15amp or so let's say) use the relay you suggested I assume.


ETA; this chart jogged my memory a bit
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-vo...gauge-amps.htm
So it would make sense with the look of that aux box you could just about run anything less than 20 amps a I asked above, aux box wire goes To (20amp rated) switch, then switch in turn goes to accessory it self.

I know it's hard to believe but I wa good at this stuff once. I even had a stick shift Honda with self installed power remote door locks (I actually installed the actuators) remote start and all kinds of other stuff. It's just not coming back to me yet! Perishable skills I suppose.

Really love this site, the help I get and the input

Thanks again,

Z

 

Z, can I ask what the specs on the compressor are? Voltage and current rating off the motor plate.
That will give you a better idea of what size inverter you're going to have to purchase.
I'm pretty sure you will be needing a second battery with an isolating circuit and an upgrade to the alternator.
Have you though of maybe just using a generator to run it?

 

As far as the compressor I think there is a misunderstanding. It's a viair style to fill tires and air bags. It normally runs of the 12v accessory plug but I want to mount it in my toolbox out of the way and direct wire it. Keep in mind they will both see limited use. The inverter is mainly to charge drill batteries, maybe some other occasional small uses. Te compressor fills my air bags which take 10 seconds and frequently fill mower tires.

Thanks! Help on the switch info above to verify would be much appreciated!

QUOTE=conger;14866079]Z, can I ask what the specs on the compressor are? Voltage and current rating off the motor plate.
That will give you a better idea of what size inverter you're going to have to purchase.
I'm pretty sure you will be needing a second battery with an isolating circuit and an upgrade to the alternator.
Have you though of maybe just using a generator to run it?[/QUOTE]

 

[QUOTE="zspeed130;14866963"]As far as the compressor I think there is a misunderstanding. It's a viair style to fill tires and air bags. It normally runs of the 12v accessory plug but I want to mount it in my toolbox out of the way and direct wire it. Keep in mind they will both see limited use. The inverter is mainly to charge drill batteries, maybe some other occasional small uses. Te compressor fills my air bags which take 10 seconds and frequently fill mower tires.

Thanks! Help on the switch info above to verify would be much appreciated!

Ha ha. I understand. Good luck with the project.

 

I wasn't at all trying to be a smart aleck. I just thought I probably wasn't clear on what type of compressor this will be.

Thanks again, now I just have to wait a few hrs till tvsjr comes back on

Z

 

We've got a 2014 F150 SCrew running around right now with the Hall effect sensors disconnected, as the truck is equipped with dual batteries and an isolator system. No problems. Eh, I don't like that design. The Blue Sea stuff is really nice. Basically, you want a #5025 (6 circuits with ground) or #5026 (12 circuits with ground). You can order them from Amazon (on Prime, even!) Every component of the system needs to be rated for the maximum amp draw. So, if you have a 30 amp circuit, you can buy a 30-amp switch and run 10ga wire to the switch. But, that's going to be a pain to run wire, and the switch will be physically large. The solution is a smaller switch (with the switch controlling power or ground to the relay coil) and a relay.

Depending on what you're doing and how many switched circuits you want, you could consider a switchbox designed for emergency vehicles. Here's one reputable seller, and some of the options they offer: SIRENNET.COM - Switch Boxes

The Whelen PCC8R might be a good solution. Basically, you have a small pushbutton control head you mount in the vehicle and a control center (which contains computer control, relays, etc.) that you mount elsewhere - under a seat, behind the rear seats, etc. You run big power (50-100A) to the control center, and then take wires from each output to whatever you want to control. If the existing relays aren't large enough (let's say you want to control your inverter which would require a 75A relay), you can always use the outputs to drive the coil of the bigger relay.

 

For what it's worth. I am in the middle of a car build project.
I've done a lot of wiring work in this car. I like the products offered by "painless wiring"
They had a number of different kits available for added different accessories like extra lighting, pumps and things of that sort. I have one set up for driving lights, cooling system fan override & fuel pump emergency shutdown.