please help does any one have any ideas on saving this block this is the exhaust valve.

 

Sorry. Time for another block . some say you could pin that and sleeve. But if your talking machine work and rebuild might as well put that money into a good block to begin with so you can feel a little better about all that work done.

 

Exactly right. It would have to be pinned and sleeved, and no guarantees after all that. Any sign of water damage in that cylinder? Sometimes they get plugged with rust and really don't leak.

 

This made me wonder, isn't there someone that makes a new block. Casting an iron block isn't high tech. So I did a searched and found this. But I don't think I've heard of anyone here that's tried one of these.
Motor City Speed Equipment, Dundee Michigan, Mark Kirby

 

I'm not clear whether MCF is actually producing the blocks, but their preliminary pricing was $12k for a rough-machined block. That was about 5 years ago when they were promising they'd be out in a year....

Actually, casting the flat V8's was considered a coup of major proportions back in the day. Very difficult, with the internal exhaust passages.

 

More than that, the flathead V8 in 1932 was the first V8 engine block to be cast in one piece. "V" engines up to that point had separate crankcases and cylinder sections, and were incredibly expensive. Stories I've read were that Henry had a plan for a one piece design to keep costs down, and to keep it top secret, he had engineers working on the project that weren't allowed to talk with each other. Each person reported to him separately and then Henry told them what to do. I also got the impression when they told him it wouldn't work, Henry also told them where to go.

 

It's just a crap shoot when the heads are on. I have probably bought or been given at least a dozen. I have 2 really nice blocks right now, one has been magnafluxed and bored ten over, and ready for a project. The other is just real good visually so far. Wire brushed and carefully inspected. Std bore. If you persevere a good block isn't that hard to find. You might get some turkeys first. Best advice is I have always bought from sleepy rural areas without a real 'hot rod' culture. These have never been raced and bored out thin and set up with triple carbs etc. By the time those guys are done with them, they are ususally all used up. Look up 'French flathead v8' supposedly there were some made there for the govt. or some such thing. Good luck in your search. The smoooooth idle and the roaring cackle alone make them worth it!

 

I don't think they ever got that block into production. In 2012, they 'introduced a 327 cu in aluminum flathead block, but they still don't show it available. Also, both blocks were of the 59AB configuration.

 

The pitting suggests that one has passed water.

 

Thanks guys for the responses. I called a few machine shops basically said might not do any good. I have heard of spray welding but the guys say they haven't had much luck with that. Going to do more inspection as the cylinder does not appear to have water damage. Part of me is thinking that crack is not deep and I might be able to braze it any thoughts on this? I'm on the search for a new block as well but this breaks my heart as its the original engine for the truck. My wife said she thought i would not be this upset or sad at her funeral. Hmm..lol. I live in Oklahoma and as far as new block i would agree the country would be the place. In the town I live in is where all the Discovery Channel Street Outlaw guys live so everything seems to be a tad more pricey when for sale by owner.

 

I don't know what your plans or your budget is, but since you're talking about finding another block I'm assuming you're plans are for a rebuild. Unless you plan to reuse a lot of the internal parts, even doing the work yourself will put you in the $2K range, not counting machine work. Decent rebuild kits alone are about $1800. If that is what you are considering, I would suggest you talk to Josh, (jmadsen) and see what his buddy Roger has available.
As far as that being the 'original' engine for the truck, since the engines had no serial numbers, there is actually no way to know that for sure.

 

So I am just going to try and salvage this for now. See what happens. It had a little blow by before I tore it down and it ran really great. We will see what happens. Right now my budget is small. So I think I will slowly build another block after I put this one back together. If the motor goes I'm just out the labor and gaskets no biggie.

 

Lots of old-time tricks to seal it up, although at the exhaust valve there is a lot of heat. Running some sodium silicate (waterglass) in the cooling system, or stop-leak products that are ground up aluminum flakes.

 

So update. Going to put it back together and run it, and as part of my solution run stop leak as Ross suggested; as well as among brazing the crack. I did some looking on Craigslist and found a guy who had quite a few blocks available. I asked if he knew of any he might have without cracks or major damage. Here is his response. " I have about 10 blocks . in various dis-assembly.. bear block 100.00 - w/crank 150.00 complete 250.00"

I feel these are fairly reasonable prices, and that I could take all the internals out of my engine now and move them right over to the new one assuming no machine work as been done to the cylinders. Thoughts?

-Ron

 

My thoughts dont trash it. I would counter bore the valve seat out (for an
insert) that way you could see the extent of the crack. Theres a good utube
vidio showing how to pin these flatheads. Pinning isnt hard. And then a lot
are running around with cracks anyways. Most likely even mine has cracks
but it beats on all 8's don't know .