Slow boat, huh? No way I could wait that long! Have you tried disassembling it? There can't be too much to them - they were routinely honed and new seals installed and put back into service back in the day.

You can see what's what, and probably have everything setup long before the replacement shows up on your door. May just be missing a .50c rubber seal. Worth a look.

 

www.speedbleeders.com

You might also find them at your local speed shop or parts store. I have them installed on all my rides including my bikes. Makes it easy to bleed or flush the system. I flush the system on all of them every couple years. The bikes, every year.

As others have said, bench bleed the master first. You can also pick up a vacuum brake bleeding kit at your local parts store. They work great. But you first still need to bench bleed the master.
Good luck

 

How did this turn out? Sounds like a lot of remanufactured M/C have problems out of the box. One advantage to bench bleeding is it's usually easy to tell when ya got a clinker.

 

I finally got a new M/C yesterday from a different place, Summit kept pushing back the due in date to me so I canceled the order and ordered it somewhere else.

The new M/C is good much better than the last one, but I found out that one of my wheel cylinders was no good when trying to bleed using the vacuum bleed kit... So now I am waiting for another wheel cylinder to come in, one step forward... 2 back.

I have to take the rear axle and hub back off... couldn't happen to one in the front... just my luck. But with old vehicles... setbacks are common. Next time... I am bringing it somewhere to have ANYTHING with the brakes worked on.

 

From what I am reading wheel cylinders aren't much better. Lots of problems with them leaking right out of the box, ports drilled wrong, etc. I paid to have the hard lines replaced, can handle the rest easier.

The wheel cylinders are from you know where. Most brake experts recommend replacing all wheel cylinders when one is bad as the others won't be far behind. At least replace both on the same axle. New shoes, drums, etc increase pressures. Finishing up a complete braking system replacement today, it's a bigger job than I first thought.

 

Oh I did replace EVERYTHING... Copper Brake Lines, M/C, Wheel Cylinders, Shoes, Rebuild Kits, Springs, Adjusters.... but one of my wheel cylinders I put on wasn't good apparently. Yes... a much bigger project than I thought. I gotta say... Rockauto.com sure is a place to go for cheap parts.

 

"Cheap" and "brakes" shouldn't go together. Don't mind the labor but if the parts are defective right out of the box it sure gets aggravating. Bought all the cylinders through RockAuto, and then read about all the horror stories with bad wheel cylinders. It pays to do homework first. Received two Chinese, one Italian, and a U.S.A. made. Hm.

Disassembled the new cylinders and checked them out and filled them with brake fluid for a few days prior to bleeding and use. I would seek out all NOS were I to do it again, and I may have to, going to find out in a day or two.

Rebuilding the OEM brake cylinders used to be common and may be the way to go again if the bores aren't pitted or worn too bad.

 

A brake fluid bleeding methodthat works really well for a one-person operation is this:
Run the bleed line from the brake nipple UP and over the top of the tire and then down into a container. Bubbles pushed out of the cylinder and exit from the bleed nipple flow up and away from the cylinder. You can then press and release the brake pedal solo without worry that air will get sucked back into the system. The only problem with this is that it works well, and you need to keep an eye on the master to prevent it from sucking air. The disadvantage is that there isn't someone looking at the fluid as it exits to determine the color and air bubble quantity.

 

I'm still waiting on a set of speedbleeders for the rear cylinders. I have one of the vacuum bleeders that use compressed air, so thought I'd try it out.

They don't seem to seal well around the bleeder nipple at all, or air is sneaking past the threads, or both. Was not happy. So I went old school with the hose submerged in fluid and it seems like maybe the import cylinder tolerance is too loose in the threads, I ran quite a bit of fluid without getting a solid hose, without bubbles on the far line. Continued through just to see what kind of pedal would result. The speed bleeders seem to work slick, they have a bit of sealant around the threads.

 

Since I usually flush my fluid system each year or two on all my vehicles - motorcycles every year, (if I drive it or not), I ordered a bottle of their liquid thread sealant. Sometimes I need it sometimes not, but its always on hand. Bleeding/flushing your brakes system should be a scheduled job. Most people concentrate on making it go fast but you need to make sure you can stop it...

 

You've got a point there. Somebody over at the H.A.M.B. said something like "How many people obsess over frequent motor oil changes but are driving around with OEM brake fluid?"

 

Well got the second set of Speed Bleeders in the mail. SB1428 is what they list for 64 F100 on the rear cylinders.

Maybe that's a good # and are correct for OEM cylinders - but they are 1/4 inch diameter - way too small for these wheel cylinders. The cylinders replaced are 3/8ths, and the new ones are the same. %#%£it!! I might try swapping the SB3824s in the rear cylinders and see if a firm pedal can be had that way.

 

Only 1/4" I've seen have been on early Mustangs and Falcons. I had to buy two rear cylinders a few years ago, one side had SAE threads and the other one was metric. Damn offshore crap.

 

Huh. Well I went through all cylinders and did a gravity bleed this time, running a long hose up, well above the cylinders and over leaf springs and such. Each wheel has no bubbles, solid column of brake fluid.

Brakes aren't terrible, but way too mushy, I think. I replaced M/C, hard lines, and brake hoses before replacing the wheel cylinders and everything else, and had a stiffer pedal. So I'm stumped what's going on here.

 

Mushy= air