Did you try removing the distributor cap and dry it out? After a power wash, water probly gotten inside the cap and that will cause the engine not to run good at all!

Been there and done it too many times.... I take the cap off and hose it out with WD40 and let it dry a few minutes then put back on and try starting engine.

 

I second that, seen it many times, open it up,make sure allis dry, also check under wires on the cap for water.
You could also check ignition coil harness and wire to distributor.

 

I pulled the cap off, shot it down with brake cleaner, let it dry and put her back on..same thing

 

i did the cap...didnt check under the wires or harness or wire to distributor...its been sitting for 2 weeks since i pressure washed it and started having these problems..should all the water be dry by now? or is it possible something is still holding water??

 

The bottom of the distributor can hold water and evaporates and condenses on the cap and rotor. After 2 weeks, it should be dry now too.

As you are flooding the engine with wet spark plugs, I next look at fuel pressure and regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is connected by vacuum line and it could of ruptured sending raw fuel directly into the intake manifild.

 

ok...pulled the codes, this is what I got
21= Cooling temperature sensor out of specified range or ECT out of range
23=Throttle position sensor signal out of range
24=Intake air charge temperature (ACT,IAT) sensor or Valve Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range
67=Neutral Pressure Switch (NPS) circuit failure, circuit open OR/AND Air conditioning compressor clutch switch fault...

 

changed the tps...still the same

 

pulled the ect...it wasnt dirty at all...wire brushed, sprayed with brake cleaner, let dry, put it back...same thing

 

With too many "out of "range" codes occurring at once usually means a bad (common power or ground)wire going to those sensors. Start checking those wires going to sensors from the ECU. Still could be a bad ECU but check ALL wires first before tossing more $$$ at it.

I would check the BLK-WHT ground wires common to all three sensors. See if you have good continuity from those to a good ground on the engine/frame

 

Codes 21 and 24 can be caused if the engine was not warmed up before running the KOEO tests and CM display.

Code 67 can be caused by not having the manual transmission in neutral when running the KOEO tests.

Code 23 can be caused by a faulty TPS but needs to be verified with a meter.

Unless the TPS output is interpreted as WOT there is nothing there that would cause the symptoms the OP is describing.

It might be worth the trouble to verify the connections to each sensor are not fouled with moisture.

 

i will check for continuity first thing in the morning

 

I didnt have the engine warmed up..I can barely get it to start, now i cant keep her running for 30 seconds.
the transmission was in neutral when i did the KOEO test. i am having a problem where i have to push the clutch 2 or 3 times before i can get her to turn over, could this be the problem?
I changed the tps today, same thing

i have pulled all sensors and shot them down with brake cleaner, let them dry and replugged..atleast 3 times now...same thing

 

also, the 1st time i pulled the computer out, i opened it up and found a capacitor was leaking, so i had the capacitor replaced and hooked it back up...after cleaner connections to the sensors with brake fluid and letting them dry and hooking them back up, and changing the tps sensor, tried to start and it was the same symptoms...i pulled the computer back out and opened it up just to check if anything fried, and everyting was good, so i put it back in...not sure if this makes a difference, just wanted to let yall know exactly what ive done...thanks for the replys and the help

 

Time for a fuel pressure check.

We already know you found bad capacitors and had them replaced but the motherboard may have been damaged.

 

ok...i will do a fuel pressure check in the morning...thank you sir