Hey guys,
As some of you may know, I pulled the motor, tranny and transfer case out of my 93 F250 plow truck and went over everything thoroughly as well as putting on fresh GT40p heads on the 5.8. Problem was, here in NY it got cold very fast and I feared I would not have enough time to put the drivetrain back in my 93 to have it ready for any upcoming snow, so I bought this 97. I will probably sell my 93 as a shell if anyone is interested with the fully hydraulic Diamond Plow set up or I might include it's drivetrain for the right price to make it a complete truck. Interior is blue and mint!

The 97 has a 5.8 and is automatic with 4 wheel drive. It has 191,000 miles and the frame is clean. The rear quarters have some rot, but that's it. I bought it last week and drove 40 minutes home in it. It has it's quirks as they all do. One of the quirks was also the biggest issue I had with my 93. While idling, no problems, idles smooth, but as soon as I would put it in reverse I noticed the volts would drop and the truck would act like it was going to stall and sometimes would. I addressed that by doing two things as I did with success with my 93.
The 97 had a 850 cca AC delco battery which I had load tested and even though it was rated for 850, it was only putting out 448cca (Thanks to Advance Auto for the free test). I put a new battery in and it helped start the truck faster and helped somewhat with the reverse issue, but was not enough. To solve the problem, I installed a 3G alternator and that did it, even with a full load such as the heat on full blast and all the lights on. So for future reference to anyone who has the common problem of their truck stalling while in reverse or in drive, have your battery load tested and consider installing a 3G alternator ($130) before you go crazy replacing your Idle Air Control Valve or Throttle Position Sensor as is commonly suggested by many. I fixed two trucks in the past year by changing the battery and installing a 3G alternator with 100% success. The 3G alternator plugs right in and bolts right in with no modifications.
After doing that, I did what I would normally do when buying a new (to me), vehicle. I re-established all the grounds, checked for spark, fuel pressure, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned out the IAC and Throttle body. Checked all the fuses in the truck and the engine bay and sanded every one of the contacts. Checked the cap and rotor, sanded the contacts, put di-electric grease in the spark plug boots and installed a new ignition coil. Truck purrs like a kitten now.

Now for the issues I need to address:
1. Horn does not work
2. Reverse lights do not work (There is one broken wire in the rear light on the drivers side, maybe this is the reverse lights?)
3. Neutral Safety switch does not work (will not start in neutral) Maybe not adjusted properly?
4. Sometimes in park when I try to start the truck it does nothing, not a sound, then if I turn the ignition key a few times and push the handle in park firmly it will start with no problem.
5. Stock radio does not work at all.
6. Shifter is a bit loose and is missing the O/D button, just 3 wires exposed at the top of the shifter. Wondering if this is related or the cause of my # 7 problem...
7. My biggest problem: Tranny was rebuilt two years ago. When I first looked at the truck the tranny dip stick had a leak. I added fluid and it felt like the tranny was in limp mode. Almost as if it was taking off in 4th. If I shift it to second, no problems and then back to drive when the truck is already moving, it runs fine but not so good up hills. Its not slipping by any means. It feels like it is in limp mode. I pulled the codes and to no surprise, I got a bunch of tranny codes among others: 114, 637, 116, 624, 626, 629, 622, 621, 654, 637, 116. Note: I pulled these codes before I did any work. Yesterday I topped off the tranny fluid and that seemed to help, but not cure the problem. The previous owner seems to think they used the wrong shifter bracket, I think the problem sounds electric. Need help on this one guys. Sorry for the very long post, just got the truck. Lot's to take in...

 

Here are some more pics of the truck and the Curtis Snow Pro 3000:

 

Here is the plow that was rebuilt last year.

 

congrats.looks like a nice one.

1. check the fuse.
2 - 4. are probably all related.see #6 and then if still needed,replace the range sensor (also called MLPS and it's the also the neutral safety switch.)
5.check the fuse.
6.check and tighten up the shift tube bolts.you'll see two bolts up above the brake pedal.apply some thread locker and snug them up.
buy the replacement switch/button/od light.







7.almost all of your codes (beside a couple.one or two might be due to having cold engine and or are engine related.and one is the MLPS - says not in park.you know about this issue with loose bolts and possibly bad sensor.)
but mainly they are all issues with the solenoid pack and or it's plug.this will help you (just remember you have latter truck,and it uses a later model s-pack and you've got 3 digit codes but basic info all applies and will help you figure out what's wrong.)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-harness.html

you've got to first insure the bolts/shift lever and then the MLPS (and back up lights/starts in P/N) is fixed.don't just buy a sensor.the shift lever could be so loose it's just way out of adjustment.free things first.then you need to make sure the OD light gets replaced.you want to know if it's on or flashing.you want to check to make sure your relays and fuses in the power dist box under the hood are all working.you may have bad s-pack plug which blew the fuse and is causing your no power/high gear starts or the plug is ok and just the fuse went bad but you need to inspect things first,then replace latter.
this will get you started.this is all good stuff actually.these issue are enough to have the seller want to just be rid of it and move on and sell for a good price and for you,though they sound and make the truck feel like it's junky right now,should all be a fairly easy fix.good luck.

 

Thank you so much for all that good info. I did check all the fuses (engine bay and under dash) in advance and they were all good with the exception of the fuse for the wipers which I changed. I didnt check any of the relays. I did fix the wire that was broken in the rear tail lights and that turned out to be the lights for the rear license plate, so that is now working. I realized the horn is not working because someone removed the actual horns. I will pull that from my 93 parts truck as well as the shifter lever to see if that helps and I will have my O/D button. I was thinking of just pulling the entire column from my 93 and swapping it into the 97 if they are compatible with the exception of me loosing the 97's cruise control which I would never use anyway. Maybe overkill, but I thought of it... I did see a red connector on the passenger side of the tranny that looks like it is not in straight. I have to get under there today and see if I can get that right. After work I will try to take care of some these problems. WE have a winter storm coming this Wednesday and I dont want to be out there worrying about anything but snow if possible. Thanks for the continued support. I greatly appreciate it.
Anthony

 

My MLPS wasn't plugged up all the way and that caused limp mode for me. And a bad VSS which was causing the speedo to bounce all over the place. When I bought my truck the guy said it was shifting hard because it needed new engine mounts - which I knew wasn't the case but it was a nice truck for a great price. Coincidence that the OD section of my shifter was also broken off? PO must not wanted to see the flashing light haha

 

I tightened up the shifter bolts, checked all the fuses (not relays), just fuses, replaced the O/D switch which now just stays blinking and replaced the MLPS and I still have my shift problem where it seems to start in 4th, can only start the truck in neutral and no back up lights. I have an extra column from another 97. I was thinking of replacing the column as it just looks like it has a lot less wear and tear on it. Not sure if that would do it. I really want to figure this out as the truck otherwise runs very good.

 

well if the light is flashing (rather than on steady and dim) then i suppose you've got power to the trans.it would be easier to say you've got high gear starts due to a bad fuse/teca relay but since you've got a flashing light plus you have other maladjusted MLPS issues then i would start there.
it should start in park,you should have backup lights and of course you should have 1st gear in the D position.
your sure you lined up the correct lines on the MLPS while the trans shifter (with wheel chocked!!!) was placed in the N position?

 

I would start with a MLPS since you can't start the truck in park and still have no backup lights

 

Yes I did have it in neutral, wheels chocked and it still will not start in park. Even before I changed the MLPS it would not start in park unless I pushed the shifter up and played with it a bit, now it will not start in park at all since I changed the part, only in neutral. Before it would not start in neutral at all with the original mlps. I know my ignition is messed up and will keep turning completely in circles. I have another column with much less mileage and wear, I was thinking of changing out the entire column to see if that helps.

 

well you probably don't need to replace it.just drop it and take a look at the shift tube and plastic bushings in there to figure out whats out of whack.

 

I got a chance to look at my tranny and turns out the passenger side wasnt even plugged in at all. I plugged it in and the o/d light is still blinking and it still takes off in 4th. I noticed there was a thin red piece sticking out of the connection portion ON the tranny, it broke off as I was trying to plug it in. I also noticed that one of the pins I guess broke off as it is stuck in the connector end of the plug (was like that before I touched it) I just bought the truck this past November. Not sure what to do at this point. Do I need to remove the solenoid packs and replace both plugs? i tried disconnectiing the battery for it to reset. No luck. Maybe the relay? Any help would be great.
Thanks
Anthony