6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Did a ton of stuff... no start now.

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  #16  
Old 11-22-2014, 09:10 PM
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I had to use a ratchet strap to push them together. Maybe put the strap back on and tighten... so when I loosen clap I can see how they are sitting.
 
  #17  
Old 11-22-2014, 09:16 PM
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You could do that. If they are that hard to line up it might not be a bad idea to loosen them at the manifolds then go from there.
 
  #18  
Old 11-22-2014, 09:36 PM
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Sounds like fun... lol.
I was maybe thinking loosing the three bolts holding down the turbo.. might help.
 
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Old 11-22-2014, 09:37 PM
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Yeah, loads. lol

You can loosen the turbo and try that too, just make sure it seats back down on the drain tube all the way.
 
  #20  
Old 11-22-2014, 09:52 PM
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True true... good point. Will do.. and for a quick second there.. I thought I would watch some football tomorrow. Nope. Lol
 
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:03 PM
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haha, you'll get it!
 
  #22  
Old 11-22-2014, 10:23 PM
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Just did the same work, except tranny.

Did you loosen the passenger manifold to install the new up pipe? If not, you could have a leak in the up pipe to y pipe flange.

To ensure no turbo leaks, keep both exhaust manifold connections loose and the exhaust loose at the cat. Tighten y pipe to turbo and then the exhaust. Then tighten the turbo to the pedestal. Then tighten exhaust manifolds and cat connection.

It takes more time, but should work most every time. If course, I was paranoid about exhaust leaks at the turbo cause I didn't want to go back in again. The test drive today indicated no leaks till I blew a cac tube off. I'll be doing the hair spray thing tomorrow.
 
  #23  
Old 11-22-2014, 10:28 PM
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Thanks for the tips.. I will be cracking some (alot) bolts loose tomorrow! I know the leak is at the turbo. I can feel it blowing out when I put my hand near it. Seems like it's coming out the bottom of the conection
 
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:01 AM
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There's more than one way to do a job most times, but for me, setting the turbo in place getting the pipe lined up and the clamp on properly, and then bolting the turbo down has worked well. There's a lot of places to get leverage on to move the turbo around the small amount required to get the bolts in (yes, I put the back bolt in last) Admittedly, I haven't yet done one after the down pipe or Y pipe has been changed or disturbed and that probably makes a difference.
 
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by happscrap
Thanks for the tips.. I will be cracking some (alot) bolts loose tomorrow! I know the leak is at the turbo. I can feel it blowing out when I put my hand near it. Seems like it's coming out the bottom of the conection
I also used high temp anti-sieze on the exterior of the ypipe connection. I told you I was paranoid.

As Eric said, there's more than one way to do it, but for someone that will do it maybe three times in my life, I thought I'd be safe.
 
  #26  
Old 11-23-2014, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by happscrap
Thanks for the tips.. I will be cracking some (alot) bolts loose tomorrow! I know the leak is at the turbo. I can feel it blowing out when I put my hand near it. Seems like it's coming out the bottom of the conection
By the way, what town are you in? You mentioned rain expected today, and we have some rain in the deep south today.
 
  #27  
Old 11-23-2014, 09:40 AM
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These exact style of marmon clamps are often used on turbine engines to hold sections together, intake plumbing and exhaust housing in place. Procedure is to torque them, tap lightly around the perimeter of the clamp and re-torque. Some applications specify as many as three times and another re-torque after a few flight hours. The tapping relives friction at the mount surface (actually stiction as it's non-moving friction) and allows the clamp to settle. Being these clamps are much smaller and hard to get to with a hammer, I also like the idea of a little anti-seize to help it settle in place during torquing.
 
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:53 AM
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I'm from Clearwater, Fl.

And that's a great idea about the anti seize. Seen a video where a guy use a liquid gasket spray as well...
Cracking bolts on exhaust manifold now... lol
 
  #29  
Old 11-23-2014, 12:57 PM
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Got it! Thank you all for the tips.. got a late start today and just took my time.

The way I did it, was I mixed some of your ideas together. Loosened the exhaust bolts, one on each side.. The bottoms. Took the clamp completely off so I had a good visual. Then cracked the 3 turbo bolts loose a few turns each.. hooked up the strap and seated her in like a charm. Installed clamp.. started her to make sure clamp was on straight and bingo! Sounds amazing as I've only had truck for a week and and it had the same leak then.

Thank you!

On a side note.... The Milwaukee M12 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch ratchets are my new favorite tool. I have a nice tool setup and my wife picked these up for me. Love them!!!
 
  #30  
Old 11-23-2014, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by happscrap
Got it! Thank you all for the tips.. got a late start today and just took my time.

The way I did it, was I mixed some of your ideas together. Loosened the exhaust bolts, one on each side.. The bottoms. Took the clamp completely off so I had a good visual. Then cracked the 3 turbo bolts loose a few turns each.. hooked up the strap and seated her in like a charm. Installed clamp.. started her to make sure clamp was on straight and bingo! Sounds amazing as I've only had truck for a week and and it had the same leak then.

Thank you!

On a side note.... The Milwaukee M12 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch ratchets are my new favorite tool. I have a nice tool setup and my wife picked these up for me. Love them!!!
Yeah, the real problem with those exhaust manifold bolts is holding the bolt as you turn the nut. I went through the passenger side fender well on that side. Any pointers would be appreciated.
 


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