My wife IS my girlfriend! I'm tellin! LOL!!! You won't get any banana crunch muffins EVER!!! LOL!

 

Now I'm confused!?!?

Easy. .I love them muffins...I know I'm gonna regret that line.

 

C'mon guys, behave . Aaron don't you have parts to build

 

Yeah! And I have some banana crunch muffins to go eat.......I love them muffins to

 

Do they have NUTS in them

 

Not in them.......but on them

 

Wall nuts? Peanuts? Chin nuts?

 

oh boy. How do you get your chin and nuts on her muffin

 

No comment here lol

 

Come on Aaron. Play nice

 

The truck already weights 8000 lbs.. one sled pulling truck is 8000-8500 lbs, plus a golf cart, and the weight of the gooseneck trailer.. not sure what the trailer weighs, but prolly 5000+.. my race truck will hopefully weigh around 6500 lbs, plus the golf cart and trailer.... it'll gross over 18,000 no matter which truck I'm pulling. Lol

 

Ohhhh, you're talking gross. I thought you were towing 18k-20k.

 

Nah. I don't tow that big d i c k Dodge weight like Glenn and Darin.

 

Aaron,
Are pushrods really needed for your build? Thats something I opted not to get, talked to several guys who run stock ones just fine. Might be something to consider saving for now, and can easily be done at a later time..

 

There are many different views taken on this. Pretty much all pushrods deflect an every so tiny amount. The whole point to using stronger pushrods is due to increased valve spring pressure and/or RPM, the pushrod will deflect more due to this which will cause a very tiny decrease in valve lift and/or duration. If the pushrod is too weak, it will deflect enough under normal operating conditions to permanently bend the pushrod..

The reason that some people prefer not to use stronger pushrods is because at higher RPMs, boost pressure, and/or drive pressure there is a chance that the valve could float if the valve springs are not adequate to control the valvetrain under those conditions. If the valves float, a valve could hit a piston. If a valve hits a piston, would you rather the pushrod deflect and end up bent or would you rather the pushrod be so strong that it will not bend and instead you end up with either a bent valve or a destroyed piston..

I bent a pushrod in my Super Duty last year with nothing done to it other than 160/100 injectors, tuning, and a fuel system. I hit the rev limiter at 3700 RPM doing a burnout and it bent a pushrod. I have chromoly pushrods in both my trucks. In my opinion, the stock pushrods were never designed or intended to be used in an engine with higher valve spring pressure, boost pressure, drive pressure, or RPMs... Therefore, the stock pushrod should not be used under these conditions.. A larger, stronger pushrod should be spec'd to operate under these conditions.