I bought a 94 F250 4X4 and drove it 4 hours to get it home. The original owner said it had a rebuilt E4OD with steel planetaries and a new cooler. I drove it locally and loved the truck. I checked all my fluids, hooked a large heavy trailer and drove at 70 for about 4 hours. The engine rpms jumped up so I grabbed the next exit. The transmission fluid level was not showing on the dip stick!? (There was no leaks or fluid on the underside of the truck and I tried to figure out where 2 quarts of fluid disappered to). I added transmission fluid to bring it back to level. I then loaded the trailer and started back home. At about 3 hours, coming back, the truck would slow down to a crawl on the interstate going up each hill then resume 70 mph on level ground. As I got off the interstate the truck would jump straight from 1st to 3rd and again, each hill it would slip, rev up then slam into gear so hard it would snap your neck. I got it home and checked everything. The next day it seemed to shift out fine when it first started up but as I drove around locally it would try to stay in first until I let off the accelerator, just a bit. I had the same issue going up a hill the other night. The engine would rev but the truck would slow to a crawl and just make it to the top of the hill. I backed it into the driveway and when the transmission engaged it shook and trembled and felt like something was out of round or out of balanced. Torque converter? Toasted Transmission? Will another rebuild fix this already rebuilt tranny? The transmission is cleaner on the outside than when it was new and there are no leaks. There is no fluid dripping or seeping out anywhere. I love this truck but I need some professional advice. I have the where with all to fix it myself but I need a professional to tell me what I should do. HELP. Please don't guess or speculate. If you know what you are talking about then please respond. The engine temp never jumped up but it does not have a tranny temp gauge. Thank you.

 

The E4OD transmission in your truck is 100% electronic controlled. Any engine sensor out of range can cause the transmission to do odd things, especially hard/delayed shifting.

Check for codes by running the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Continuous Memory(CM) code display. Yes, you can have codes without a Check Engine Light or flashing O/D light on the shifter.

Warm up the truck then do this: Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

Or purchase a code reader such as the Equus/Innova 3145.

For reference: Fuel Injection Technical Library » 3 Digit Self-test Codes 111-171
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Thanks for your very professional and knowledgeable response. I have a great transmission guy. He read my codes and told me the torque converter was fried. We took the torque converter out and it had a burnt, scorched ring all the way around it. We replaced it with a heavy duty low stall converter. Although there does not appear to be any damage to the rest of the transmission, we just rebuilt the transmission entirely. We replaced the stock pump seal with a Racer X seal. (BTW the guy that sold us the truck, in Anderson, SC said the truck had steel planetaries. He lied or was lied to by his transmission guy. His new torque converter wasn't new either. It had junk yard markings with a yellow paint pen and the transmission had been painted silver). I decided not to replace the shift solenoids. They are easy to change out if I need to, in the future. Again thanks for the good advice. I am posting this feedback in hopes of helping someone else. I probably could have simply changed out the torque converter / the fluid and everything probably would have been fine. I just went ahead and had the tranny rebuilt because the truck is 20 years old and I do not know the past history of this particular transmission.

Thank you for accepting my post and for the free advice. RJ Clark

 

Thanks for updating on your problem. Sorry you had to pull the transmission and replace the torque converter, but it's one less problem to worry about now.

Feel free to visit, post and help others.

 

Sorry to read you inherited such a mess. On the other hand you did the right thing IMHO.

Thanks for posting back with the results!

 

I had a similar experience.

1994 F-150, E40D 4x4, 4.9L six.

Bought the truck, and drove it home.

Previous owner had done an oil change and filter, and a transmission fluid change and a new filter. Also, brand new tires all the way around.

I replaced the engine thermostat because the truck would never get good and warmed up. Then, the problems started. After getting the truck warmed up, I could come to a full stop, and hear the engine laboring, like it would if I had a manual clutch partially engaged. I bought it at the beginning of the winter season, so, on a frozen day, I put it in 4 wheel drive and drove up a short hill so I could see how it handled before I tried to run it out in the world. I could barely give it gas, and I'd hear the engine labor down, and suddenly the wheels would chirp and spin in the snow.

This went on for a few days, until it started killing the engine when I would come to a stop.

I took the truck to a trusted transmission man. He had it checked out in a few days. He called and asked if I had done any work to the transmission. I said no, but the previous owner had changed the fluid, etc.

My man told me that someone had pulled the front pump and solenoid unit, and had replaced half of the pump with a used piece, and siliconed it all back together. The solenoid plunger were not originals, and were thoroughly worn out. He also said that the torque converter didnt seem to be the one that came in the truck, either, as, like yours, it had junkyard markings on it.

Since the truck had 146K on it, he planned to rebuild the whole transmission. He didn't do it, once he pulled the clutch packs, and other parts, and found there was no wear on anything beyond the pump. It was all new-looking in there.

I got a new pump, solenoids, plungers, and torque converter. He cut open the old TC, and we found damage inside due to the pump pressures being low enough to cause the lock-up feature to partially engage at idle.

It's been 10 months, now. The transmission shifts smoothly, as it should. I've had no issues with the engine bogging down, or bad 4wd engagements anymore.

Oh, I'm owner #4. #3 had the fluid changed, etc, and only drove it for a month or so. I met the original owner, and he said it was a daily driver in his plumbing business, and ran great until the clockspring in the steering column died, and killed his horns, and air bag functions. He sold it to owner #2, who will not tell me anything at all about the truck. He gets really defensive when I bring up the problems I've had with it.

Why mention the new tires? It started eating the right front tire. I had the front end checked out, and they told me the right ball joints were totally shot. The left side is like new. NOW, it drives as good as its transmission shifts.

 

I can’t figure out how to make my own thread I have a 2001 f-350 my 4r100 is acting a mess it’s overdrive light is flashing and I’m pulling codes for shift errors and my torque converter it goes into all of its gears fine it’s not engaging over drive and red lines into high RPMS at 35mph I’ve allready replaeced my torque converter and my shift solenoid and my filter added new fluid and even added Lucas transmission lube my truck just passed 103,000 miles and when I dropped my trans I drained the fluid and didn’t have any metal in my fluid or burned fluid I’m thinking it’s a sensor or electrical and don’t wanna keep throwing money into it looking for a good place to start

 

you can get a code reader for OBDII so you dont throw money at like you said, I think ther's a way to read codes without buying a reader, but not sure of steps to take
maybe this will help, at top of pages you will see forum button, when you hover it will have a drop down menu, and you pick your year/model, where you need to post
1999 to 2016 Super Duty - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

once there you will see New Thread button(yellow) and that will let you start your own thread see pic

Maybe our Mods can help you better than I can

 

I found this, maybe you can pull codes
How To Read Ford Check Engine Light Without a Code Reader | BackYardMechanic

 

There is no way to do this on a truck that is newer than 1995.

That will allow you to read codes for the instrument panel. It will NOT read engine or transmission codes.

You MUST have a good OBD-II reader to read the codes. You can download Forscan at www.forscan.org. It's free. You will need an ELM327 adapter to plug into the OBD-II port. I bought mine from Amazon for less than $30.

 

he is in wrong forum, or did you miss me saying that part