Building The Beast (phase 2)
#16
#18
#19
#21
Thanks. Not sure what I was thinking, or wasn't, but I don't know how to download a MOV file on my iPad, which is what I was using at the time. Once the fog of 100+ degree body temp lifted I realized it takes a real computer to download it, and then posting it to Youtube.
Critter - If you have a Youtube account you should be able to upload the movie from your phone to Youtube, capture the URL where it'll be available, and put that in a post using the globe/link icon.
Critter - If you have a Youtube account you should be able to upload the movie from your phone to Youtube, capture the URL where it'll be available, and put that in a post using the globe/link icon.
#22
I can't remember if I ever started one, but I use Supermotors.org to host my stuff. I have since 04 with my 73 Mercury Cougar XR7.
#24
#25
The old Adobe vs Apple battle. Bummer.
It is amazing how many sneaky little things manufacturers do that way - either on purpose or otherwise. I have a new-to-me Dell laptop with built-in wifi, but it refuses to stay connected to my wifi network. I've upgraded to the latest drivers, changed from Windows to Intel and back on who is managing the device, with no improvement. Then one day I remembered that my Apple MacBook wouldn't stay connected to my network when I first got it and I had to change from a D-Link router to an Apple router, which solved the problem. Since I still have the old router I put it back in service in addition to the Apple. Sure enough, the Dell never drops on it.
It is amazing how many sneaky little things manufacturers do that way - either on purpose or otherwise. I have a new-to-me Dell laptop with built-in wifi, but it refuses to stay connected to my wifi network. I've upgraded to the latest drivers, changed from Windows to Intel and back on who is managing the device, with no improvement. Then one day I remembered that my Apple MacBook wouldn't stay connected to my network when I first got it and I had to change from a D-Link router to an Apple router, which solved the problem. Since I still have the old router I put it back in service in addition to the Apple. Sure enough, the Dell never drops on it.
#26
I cant say on that with the extra weight. But I know on my F150 the stock brakes will throw you through the window.
If you want to improve your braking if you are not concerned about pad life or rotor life I have seen some companies selling pads and shoes that have a higher friction to them that improves their grip. Down side is they chew through rotors fairly quickly if you brake hard a lot. I thought of doing that with my '56 and '63 since I am keeping drum brakes but since ive drove customer cars with drum brakes with plain old stock pads I dont really see the need anymore.
If you want to improve your braking if you are not concerned about pad life or rotor life I have seen some companies selling pads and shoes that have a higher friction to them that improves their grip. Down side is they chew through rotors fairly quickly if you brake hard a lot. I thought of doing that with my '56 and '63 since I am keeping drum brakes but since ive drove customer cars with drum brakes with plain old stock pads I dont really see the need anymore.
#27
Braking has come a LONG way since those days Rusty.
It is no more a matter of abrasion.
Newer quality pads are based on adhesion and do not destroy the rotors or drums.
Sure, you can still buy semi metallics , but unless you are just dirt broke and haven't the extra $20 or so there's no contest.
Those cheap pads will eat way more than $20 worth of rotors.
It is no more a matter of abrasion.
Newer quality pads are based on adhesion and do not destroy the rotors or drums.
Sure, you can still buy semi metallics , but unless you are just dirt broke and haven't the extra $20 or so there's no contest.
Those cheap pads will eat way more than $20 worth of rotors.
#28
Braking has come a LONG way since those days Rusty.
It is no more a matter of abrasion.
Newer quality pads are based on adhesion and do not destroy the rotors or drums.
Sure, you can still buy semi metallics , but unless you are just dirt broke and haven't the extra $20 or so there's no contest.
Those cheap pads will eat way more than $20 worth of rotors.
It is no more a matter of abrasion.
Newer quality pads are based on adhesion and do not destroy the rotors or drums.
Sure, you can still buy semi metallics , but unless you are just dirt broke and haven't the extra $20 or so there's no contest.
Those cheap pads will eat way more than $20 worth of rotors.
But I am curious about this new friction material that I found out at work is being made, it is a hybrid that provides the benefits of semi metallics for not warping rotors or leaving high spots like ceramics can which causes shimmies in new cars with rack and pinions but provides the stopping power and low dust of ceramics.
#29
Ceramic pads with copper don't have the abrasion problems of semi metallic (steel) pads while still providing something (copper) to conduct heat away from the face of the pad.
Helping -but not entirely eliminating- glazing and hotspots.
I don't find that ceramic pads need to be heated up like carbon fiber pads do.
Helping -but not entirely eliminating- glazing and hotspots.
I don't find that ceramic pads need to be heated up like carbon fiber pads do.
#30
Ceramic pads with copper don't have the abrasion problems of semi metallic (steel) pads while still providing something (copper) to conduct heat away from the face of the pad.
Helping -but not entirely eliminating- glazing and hotspots.
I don't find that ceramic pads need to be heated up like carbon fiber pads do.
Helping -but not entirely eliminating- glazing and hotspots.
I don't find that ceramic pads need to be heated up like carbon fiber pads do.