I have a 302/AT, it starts great and idles fine, but in first gear it stumbles and "chugs" when starting from a stop. Once it gets going it runs great. I have been trying to adjust the carb idle adjustment screws but they seem to make little to no change in the idle. I screwed the right one completely closed and no change.

 

There is a ton of information on this site for the carbs. Go into advanced search and search for 2100 or 2150. Your carb is one of those. I think you are adjusting one thing and looking for it to affect another.. You might also find that your carb is getting worn out and causing vacuum leaks. Best to search, read and get to work diagnosing it.

 

Will do, thanks!

 

So, I read through the 2 barrel threads and this is what I have done, with no change to my chugging in first gear issue.

Checked the jets in the carb, squirting good!

I pulled a spark plug, and its completely fouled (my third set in two months).




This is a video of the "chugging"

 

Sounds like it's time for a rebuild kit , idle screw it all the way and black plug is what i am going by. Those carbs are pretty simple made and easy to rebuild if a kit will take care of it. If it's been beat on with a hammer like i have found them after somebody thought that would fix it , then it's time for a new carb.__JIM__

 

It's a new remanufactured carb from autolite.

 

A rebuilt carb is a good thing but don't expect it to run like a top out of the box. They are rebuilt and adjusted to run on multiple applications like a 289 Mustang all the way to a 390 in an F250.

Gonna need a manual and go step by step through the tuning/adjustment procedures.

The typical starting point is 2.5 turns out on the mixture screws, 1/8-inch space btwn the choke plate at full cold. Float level is application-specific.

..... blackened plugs looks like it's waaay too rich and bogging at take-off....turning the mixture screws in leans out the mixture... both have to be turned in and out exactly the same... always.

 

I have screwed them both in until they stop (no change in the idle?) and then unscrewed them both 1.5 turns.

 

to clarify a few things, the 2 adjustment screws on the front of the carb down at the bottom are mixture screws. They adjust the amount of fuel delivered to the jets. They are not idle adjustment screws. Idle adjustments are made on the linkage are of the carb. Curb idle on the drivers side, fast idle on passenger side. I will see if I can find a diagram.

 

Yes, I have been adjusting the mixture screws on the front of the carb.

 

I am by far no expert on this subject, but my understanding is when you adjust them all the way in, this should stop fuel completely, there for killing the engine. If it is not doing that, I would return it.


Some more info and parts pages for you

Ford 2100/2150 - The Carburetor Doctor

Motorcraft 2150 2V Carburetor

one of those places sells service manuals. There is a link on here for a service manual for a 2100.

What carb do you have?

 

I have the 2100.

 

How long has the new carb been on?
Right now from your video sounds like it's missing on one cylinder ..
What is the condition of plug wires ?
What is the condition of distributor cap and rotor ?
What is the condition of the plugs ?

 

Carbs been in about 2 months but I have been working on other issues (fuel, electrical, gauges, etc) it's only run for a few hours.

The plug wires look.

I recently replaced cap, rotor, points, condenser.

Plugs are carbon fouled I think because of choke issues I have been dealing with (missing choke tubes). I currently have the choke disconnected.

 

If you can't get the auto choke issue taken care of then install a manual choke .. Take a wire brush to the fouled plugs and reinstall ..
Have a look here ..