I ordered new choke tubes but I am going to have to remove the exhaust manifold to drill out the old air tube.

Cleaning the plugs now.

 

Do you have the tube now? Why do you have to take off the manifold ? Take pics of what your working with ..

 

link to service manual for the 2100 in this thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ce-manual.html

 

I have a broken stud I need to replace anyhow and I can't get the bottom of the choke stove drilled out.

I cleaned up the spark plugs and put on a new fuel filter, no change.

 

Instead of rebuilding the carb, it's still under the one year warranty, I returned it and got a new rebuilt carb from AutoZone/ Autolite.

I'll put it on and start fresh.

I am guessing that when I was messing with the timing issues I was having, I might have messed up something in the accelerator pump?

 

4x4slik is correct - turning the idle mixture screws in all the way (or even one) should kill the motor.

Carburetors have to be set up step by step and it's common for them to be set up wrong. Ask me how I know!

Make sure you're done with things like ignition timing or valve adjustments before final carb adjustments, don't set the float height and then replace the fuel pump. Everything should be at normal operating temperature.

Next, if you're going to work on old iron get a vacuum gauge. I don't know how anyone works without them, cheap and work great for diagnosing problems and engine tuning. Here's a good link on setting up a carb step by step, helped me get my 4150 dialed in correct:

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/holley/tune01.html

 

I used my one year warranty from AutoZone and replaced the carb (the PO had broken the original casting) , no change...still stalling in gear and "chugging" in first. I am thinking it might be a timing issue.

I tested the Vacuum Advance (sucked on the vacuum hose with the Dizzy cap off and watched the advance move then plugged the line for 30 seconds and it held vacuum) and it appears to be working.

The plugs after my last 15 minute drive are nice and tan.

After about 15 minutes of running the truck will not start (warm) until it sits overnight?

The choke is hooked-up and functioning.

The coil seems very hot, is this normal?

Any other suggestions?

 

Are the a/f mixture screws still having no effect on idle ?

Note the position of the choke plate when warm if it is not fully open then it needs to be adjusted accordingly ..

For timing start at the beginning by using a piston stop to check that 0* is in fact TDC on the harmonic balancer .. Also if emissions (EGR plate) has been removed then the distributor will have to be recurved for this change ..

 

The adjustment screws are acting normally now.

The choke plate is fully open when it's warm.

The EGR is on the manifold but not connected.

 

Coils do get hot.

But if we do a little arithmetic though it's easy to see why. 12+ volts maybe 4 or 5 amps - how many watts is that? So equivalent to a ~50/60 watt incandescent light bulb? Some of that will end up in the windings, this is why they are cooled with oil.

 

Is the egr blocked off or simply there with no vacuum to the egr valve ?

 

the pipe is no longer connected to the EGR, the PO capped it, but the truck has been running like this for some time per the PO.

 

Some things to check

 

Sorry, that was an old pic.

Ordered the EGR block off

Vacuum lines checked, no leaks

manifold clean

choke installed and working

The PVC is connected to a port on the manifold under the fuel filter.

 

In this video the engine is pulling 18lbs vacuum with the vacuum advance disconnected, when I connect the vacuum line to the vacuum advance and rev the engine the idle increases and vacuum jumps to around 22 until I disconnect the vacuum line and then it drops back to 18 and the idle drops to normal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlIZ...ature=youtu.be